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SURFING

Why Denmark’s ‘Cold Hawaii’ is surfing on virus wave

On Denmark's rugged western coast, far from paradise islands in the tropics, "Cold Hawaii" has become the place to be for surfers stranded by travel restrictions during the coronavirus pandemic.

Why Denmark's 'Cold Hawaii' is surfing on virus wave
Surfers at Klitmøller in September. Photo: Jonathan NACKSTRAND / AFP

As the name suggests, surfers seeking out the perfect wave near the town of Klitmøller are not put off by chilly waters or nippy air, nor the lack of palm trees.

This raw and rugged coastline, often under grey and bleak skies, has drawn a growing number of board aficionados in recent years.

Covid-19 has “really created a big boom,” says Mor Meluka, a 34-year-old Israeli who settled here with his family 11 years ago.

Surfing enthusiasts from Denmark and nearby countries “used to travel the world”, but now, “since they can't go anywhere we are definitely experiencing more guests than usual,” he tells AFP.

Together with his wife Vahine Itchner, Meluka runs the “Cold Hawaii Surf Camp”, a surf school that employs 15 instructors in the summer months and continues to give daily lessons even in the off-season.

“You can't really know what kind of waves you're going to get. It's always different waves. If you go to a perfect surf place like Bali or Tahiti, you know exactly how the wave is going to break. Here, it changes all the time,” says Itchner, who moved to Denmark at the age of 10 from Tahiti.

A new addition to the world's surfing hot spots, it has yet to be invaded by the masses.

Klitmøller, a town of just 1,000 inhabitants, is an unexpected destination for surfers, due to its geographic location and the absence of any surfing tradition.

One of many fishing villages that dot the Jutland coast, the spot has long been popular with windsurfers. Surfers started coming in the 1990s, with locals initially eyeing the newcomers with suspicion.


Photo: Jonathan NACKSTRAND / AFP


Nowadays surfing is an integral part of the local culture — and is even part of children's schoolday, with surfing lessons on their schedule.

Sjoerd Kok was one of the early pioneers.

A 42-year-old Dutch computer programmer, he moved here 17 years ago “for
the surfing”. His enthusiasm hasn't waned a bit, as interest in the town continues to soar.

“A couple of years ago I told myself this is the peak… But no, it still expands.”

Itchner and Meluka say they expect surfing to take off across Denmark, a windy country already known for its kitesurfing.

“It's going to become a famous surf spot!” boasts Itchner.

In the land of 'hygge' — the Danish concept of cosiness and comfort that promotes a sense of well-being in daily life — Klitmøller epitomises the art form better than any other place.

“The right word is the word 'cosy': to go surfing and then go home and light a fire and drink a hot chocolate.”

READ ALSO: Danish paddle surfer sweeps across sea to Norway

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LOFOTEN

In pictures: Surfing above the Arctic Circle in Norway

The 2019 Lofoten Masters surfing competition was held last week at the Bay of Unstad in the northwestern reaches of Norway.

In pictures: Surfing above the Arctic Circle in Norway
Indonesian surfer Edi Siswanto rides a Stand-Up Paddle Board (SUP) under the Northern Lights in Unstad. Photo: Olivier MORIN / AFP

The sea rises under the low, late summer sun, the wave climbs and curls and crashes, a figure emerges in a wetsuit, on a long board, and punches the air.  


Anker Olsen Frantzen,18, rides a wave. Photo: Olivier MORIN / AFP

His name is Anker Olsen Frantzen, just 18 years old and a native of the Bay of Unstad where the Lofoten Masters surfing competition is taking place. 

Anker is one of 29 surfers (eight female, 21 male) taking part in the 2019 edition of the Masters, the only competition to be held within the Arctic Circle at 68.9 degrees latitude.


Norway's surfer Ine Haugen, winner of the final of the open Lady Contest. Photo: Olivier MORIN / AFP

Lost in a network of fjords, the bay is stunningly beautiful, a haven for seabirds, a hideaway for humans.


Surfers look on at Unstad. Photo: Olivier MORIN / AFP

Its remoteness adds to its appeal. The Moskstraumen – or maelstrom – which forms in the archipelago has inspired writers since the Old Norse poems of ancient times. Edgar Allan Poe and Jules Verne both used it to dramatic effect in their stories “A Descent into the Maelstrom” and “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea”.

Fortunately for today's surfers there is no sign of a whirlpool in Unstad.


A surfer carries his board as he walks to the judges truck. Photo: Olivier Morin/AFP

Fair weather surfers who seek out the sun and big waves of Oahu or Tahiti or Jeffrey's Bay might blink at the conditions, although given the location inside the Arctic Circle they are relatively kind.

The dying embers of an Indian summer push the temperatures up to 17 degrees during the day with the ocean at 10 degrees. The high pressure means the waves are unusually small.


Surfing wetsuits and accessories dry at the end of the day. Photo: Olivier Morin/AFP

Anker's grandfather Thor Frantzen is the godfather of surf in these parts.

Back in 1963, using the cover of The Beach Boys' album “Surfin' Safari”, released the previous year, as his guide, Thor built the first surfboard in Lofoten from a combination of fibreglass and newspaper.


Anker Olsen Frantzen poses with his grandfather Thor Frantzen, holding his 1963 self-made surfboard. Photo: Olivier Morin/AFP

That summer of '63, he then set about learning to use it. And he has been surfing ever since.

But he has had to hand over the crown — last Saturday the Norwegian Ine Haugen took the women's title while Swedish professional Tim Latte was the best of the men.


Swedish surfer Tim Latte, rides a wave during the final of the Open Contest. Photo: Olivier MORIN / AFP

Oh, and grandson Anker won the longboard.


A longboard surfer walks to the water. Photo: Olivier Morin/AFP

READ ALSO: Braving Norway's cold: Surfing above the Arctic Circle