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‘Fondue is Swiss… the French just don’t know how to make it’

The World Fondue Championships are underway in Switzerland and even before the winner has been named tensions are running high between the Swiss and the French over what cheese goes into a fondue.

'Fondue is Swiss... the French just don't know how to make it'
Photo: Depositphotos

Some 120 competitors are literally stirring the pot this week in Tartegnin, in the Canton of Vaud, trying to create the world’s best fondue recipe.

And while the contestants come from several countries, the battle of the cheeses is mainly between the Swiss — who invented the fondue in the 1930s — and the French, who also like to claim supremacy over this hearty wintertime dish.

Creating the perfect fondue recipe is no simple matter, it seems, as many important decisions have to be made. Among them — what cheese and what wine should be used?

“This is a serious matter, we are not here to kid around”, said Jérôme Lefevre, one of the jurors in charge of designating the 2019 world fondue champion.

 Lefevre is Swiss, but when it comes to fondues, he is not neutral.

“The fondue is Swiss. The French don’t know how to make it. Cheeses must come from the Gruyère region and have no holes. In France, they use cheese with holes”, he told FranceInfo.

But apart from the obligation to use real Gruyère cheese, competitors are free to innovate. Each contestant has his or her own technique and ingredients. “The secret of good fondue is to take the time,” one participant said. “Our secret is the wooden spatula, always the same one to turn the fondue, and always in the same direction”.

Another competitor noted that “the secret of good fondue is first and foremost a good cheese, and then, it’s training, training, training. We are confident we have a good mix with some secret ingredients, such as smoked whiskey”.

Stéphane Jayet, the chairman of the organizing committee, said that even though the competition is all about the fondue, it is far from cheesy.

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“We must be credible in everything we do, from the choice of jury members to the reception of visitors”, he said.

Some 10,000 people are expected to attend this event, which takes place over three days.

And now for the real question: what is the difference between Swiss and French fondue?

First, the similarities: both are prepared in a special pot called “caquelon” and stirred while cooked. Often, white wine and sometimes a bit of Kirsch are added. When ready, it is eaten by dipping pieces of white bread into the cheese with long-stemmed forks.

The main difference lies in the kind of cheeses used. In Switzerland, the main ingredients are Gruyère and vacherin from Fribourg, in equal parts (it is called, fittingly, ‘moitié – moitié’).

In France, it is often made from French cheeses like Comté, Beaufort and Emmental – which is the recipe for the classic Fondue Savoyarde, from the Alpine region of Savoie. 

However, in both countries cheeses and recipes may vary according to the region.

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SWISS CHEESE

‘Insane waste’: Half a tonne of ‘unwanted cheese’ looking for a new home in Switzerland

Half a tonne of this Swiss cheese, renowned for its tangy taste and creamy texture when melted, may end up in the trash — unless you save it.

‘Insane waste’: Half a tonne of ‘unwanted cheese’ looking for a new home in Switzerland
Maybe this man can save the rejected raclette. Photo by Photo by Fabrice COFFRINI / AFP

Because of inadequate packaging, a retailer returned the raclette to the manufacturer, who ended up with half a tonne of cheese he couldn’t sell.

There was nothing wrong with the cheese itself, so instead of throwing it out, the cheesemaker contacted Frischer Fritz, an organisation which fights against food waste, and asked them to take the 130 wheels of raclette off his hands.

READ MORE: How Switzerland plans to beat its butter shortage (again)

“This is such an insane waste”, said  Sandra Kissling, the organisation’s founder.

Frischer Fritz took to social media to find buyers for the cheese, which has pieces of vegetables added to it.

But Kissling said takers are not exactly queueing up in front of the organisation’s shop in Thun, canton Bern, or on its online platform.

The packaging may not be attractive but the cheese is excellent. Frischer Fritz / Facebook

To make it easier to sell, the cheese was cut into 800-gramme portions, although larger chunks are also available — whole wheels weighing 6kg sell for 65 francs.

READ MORE: Swiss cheese exports swell amid pandemic cooking frenzy

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