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HISTORY

How to understand Berlin through its landmarks with quirky nicknames

Berlin natives have nicknamed the capital's landmarks in rather unusual ways – reflecting both their unconventional appearances and what they say about the city’s equally extraordinary history.

Berlin's famous skyline and the Fernsehturm
Berlin's famous skyline and the Fernsehturm. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Christoph Soeder

1) Fernsehturm alias Telespargel

Berlin’s TV tower. Photo: DPA

Berlin’s Fernsehturm (Television tower) dominates the largest square in the middle of Berlin, the Alexanderplatz. Completed in 1969 and standing at 368 metres tall, the Fernsehturm loomed large over the divided city and was built to display Socialist supremacy. Still the behemoth was rather isolated since there was and is no building even close to its height and thus Berliners often referred to the Fernsehturm – still Germany’s tallest building – as “Telespargel”, “Spargel“ being “asparagus“. It needs to be said that Berliners go absolutely nuts for asparagus so this is a rather affectionate mock.

READ ALSO: Which German cities have the rudest locals?

2) Brunnen der Völkerfreundschaft alias Nuttenbrosche

Berlin Alexanderplatz. Photo: DPA

Beneath the Fernsehturm, pedestrians will discover a sight called “Brunnen der Völkerfreundschaft“ (“fountain of peoples’ friendship“), the name being a relic of the socialist past. Well, East Berliners were not too fond of the fountain’s enamel design which is why they called it “Nuttenbrosche“ (“hooker’s brooch”) to also acknowledge the rampant prostitution in this area. 

3) Palast der Republik alias Erichs Lampenladen / Palazzo Prozzo

Berlin Palast der Republik
Berlin’s former Palast der Republik, which was built in the DDR era and has since been demolished. Photo: DPA

Since the Berliner Stadtschloss (Berlin Palace) was severely damaged in World War II, the government of the GDR decided to blow up the remnants and construct a new building on top of them  in 1963. This building would house the Staatsrat, the State Council of East Germany, formally the collective head of state.

In 1973, a modern Palast der Republik – Palace of the Republic – was erected. Given its horrendous costs (rumoured to total a mind-boggling billion Mark in GDR currency), the Palast der Republik was met with ridicule by East Berliners, who referred to the residence of the East German parliament as “Erichs Lampenladen“ or “Palazzo Prozzo”.

Erich Honecker was the de-facto head of state, and “Lampenladen” means “bulb shop“ since this Soviet chic involved lots of lamps that illuminated the modern building at day and night. Palazzo Prozzo is pseudo-Italian as “protzen“ means “to boast“ in German.

Mind you, this was a totalitarian state and dissent was not exactly welcome. After German reunification, the Palast der Republik was closed down due to asbestos and authorities decided to reinstate the Berliner Stadtschloss, which opened to the public as the Humboldt Forum in 2021. 

READ ALSO: Vienna vs Berlin: Which German-speaking city is better to live in?

4) Kongresshalle alias Schwangere Auster

Berlin's Kongresshalle
Berlin’s Kongresshalle. Photo: DPA

Built between 1956 and 1957 by the American architect Hugh Stubbins, the Kongresshalle was an eye-catcher from the get-go. Originally constructed to celebrate the American-German alliance after World War II, the Kongresshalle has hosted the Haus der Kulturen der Welt (House of the World’s Cultures) since 1987, presenting contemporary international art.

The most artistically daring exhibit here, though, might be the building itself. Its futuristic design reminded Berliners of a species that is not found on the shores of Berlin’s major river, the Spree, or indeed anywhere: they thought it resembled what a “Schwangere Auster” or “pregnant oyster” would look like.

5) Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche alias Lippenstift and Puderdose

Berlin's Breitscheidplatz.
Berlin’s Breitscheidplatz. Photo: DPA

Berlin’s Breitscheidplatz is a very populated area since the square is sandwiched between Kurfürstendamm – probably Berlin’s busiest street – and Budapester Straße. It’s also a place of tragic circumstances since its main attraction, the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche, or Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, was heavily bombarded in World War II and turned into a crime scene on December 19th, 2016 when terrorist Anis Amri struck, killing twelve people in a truck attack.

The heavily damaged Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche serves as a memorial and goes by a nickname itself: “der hohle Zahn” or “the hollow tooth”. After World War II, Berlin was in need of a makeover – or just some proper makeup. Attached right next to the ruin are two buildings that were constructed in 1959, a bell tower which Berliners call “Lippenstift” (“lipstick”) and a nave (part of a church building) that bears a resemblance to a “Puderdose“ or “powder box”.

6) Tränenpalast

Tränenpalast near Friedrichstraße.
People walk past the former Tränenpalast near Friedrichstraße. Photo: DPA.

While there is a theater of that name close to the place of origin, this entry is about a building that does not exist anymore. When the Berlin Wall (1961-1989) was still standing, families from both parts of the city often crossed the border at S-Bahnhof Friedrichstraße, a major traffic hub where U-Bahn (metro) and S-Bahn meet.

Geographically, S-Bahnhof Friedrichstraße belonged to East Berlin and formed part of the Soviet sector. You could tell that Friedrichstraße was a transit area during the Cold War since, as a West Berliner, you were allowed to exit the U-Bahn at Friedrichstraße; however you were not allowed to exit at five stops prior to Friedrichstraße on the U6 line.

West Berliners were occasionally allowed to visit their East Berlin relatives (and infuse much-needed Deutsche Mark into the GDR economy) for one day while most GDR citizens were not allowed to leave GDR.

At border crossings, GDR citizens and their Western relatives would bid each other teary goodbyes: earning Tränenpalast (“palace of tears”) its name.

READ ALSO: IN NUMBERS: Who is coming to – and leaving – Berlin?

7) Berliner Philharmonie alias Zirkus Karajani

The Berlin Philharmonie near Potsdamer Platz.
The Berlin Philharmonie near Potsdamer Platz. Photo: DPA

Between 1960 and 1963, German architect Hans Sharoun built the Berliner Philharmonie, which complements Berlin’s cultural offerings. Its futuristic design is reminiscent of a circus tent – and of course its acoustic – immediately turned heads. The in-house musicians, the Berliner Philharmoniker, are world-renowned and attract huge crowds but it was iconic Austrian master conductor (and Nazi fanboy) Heribert Karajan whose name inspired Berliners to refer to the Berliner Philharmonie as “Zirkus Karajani“ since it sounds similar to Circus Sarrasani, a popular contemporary circus.

Karajan, one of the greatest conductors of the 20th century who is said to be the the top-selling classical music recording artist of all time, conducted the Berlin Philharmonic orchestra between 1954 and 1989.

8) Kanzleramt alias Waschmaschine / Elefantenklo

The Kanzleramt, or chancellery, in Berlin
The Kanzleramt, or chancellery, in Berlin. Photo: DPA

After German reunification in 1990, Berlin became Germany’s capital since West Germany was being governed from tiny Bonn near Cologne since 1949, while East Berlin was the capital of the GDR. When the entire political base moved to Berlin, the city was in need of a new Bundeskanzleramt (federal chancellery) that represented Germany properly.

Between 1997 and 2001, the new Bundeskanzleramt – inhabited by Angela Merkel since 2005 – was under construction in Berlin’s governing district or “Regierungsviertel“ that also harbours the German parliament, the Bundestag.

The late chancellor Helmut Kohl opted for the design by architects Axel Schultes and Charlotte Frank who erected the world’s biggest government headquarter.

“The postmodern building – which really consists of several cubic buildings and involves lots of glass – was met with mixed reviews.” Berliners hence came up with unflattering names such as “Waschmaschine“ (“washing machine”) and “Elefantenklo” (“Elephants’ latrine”).  

READ ALSO: Thrifty Swabians and haughty Hamburgers: A guide to Germany’s regional stereotypes

9) Luftbrückendenkmal alias Hungerharke

Second World War photo
A photo from 1948 showing an American plane transporting supplies. Photo: DPA

After World War II, Berlin was occupied by four powers: the US, the UK and France in the western part of the city, and by the Soviet Union in the eastern part. Berlin itself was isolated from the rest of Germany since it was surrounded by a Soviet sector, according to the region the Red Army had liberated from Nazi rule.

In 1948, the three western allies agreed upon a monetary reform which introduced the Deutsche Mark. The Soviet Union did not like that too much and put up a blockade (including power) of the so-called Trizone. This resulted in a “Luftbrücke” or “air lift” the western allies installed, using airports in Tempelhof, Gatow and Tegel. Between June 24th 1948 and May 12th, 1949, practically all supplies came in via air in dramatic fashion, aboard of American and British planes.

The 2.2 million Berliners that were depending on those planes used to call them “Rosinenbomber“ or “raisin bombers” since pilots used to deploy little parachutes that featured candy for the children.

At their peak, the allies managed to land a plane every 90 seconds at Flughafen Tempelhof (Tempelhof Airport). In total, 277,569 flights passed through it before the Soviet Union finally gave in.

Several dozen pilots and civilians lost their lives during the Luftbrücke. In 1951, a monument was erected in Berlin-Tempelhof, right in front of Flughafen Tempelhof. The Luftbrückendenkmal looks like a claw clasping the sky which is why Berliners would call it “Hungerharke“ (“hunger claw”).

READ ALSO: Why November 9th is a fateful day in German history

10) Café Achteck

Cafe Achteck in Berlin.

This is not a place where you sip a coffee or other liquids, but where you get rid of them. Once in a while, a Berliner strolling down the streets stumbles upon remnants of the past: Male Berliners at least can sneak a peek and relieve themselves here since Café Achteck is a Berlin expression for a public toilet that houses a bunch of urinals. From the outside, the cast iron structure looks like an octagon, hence the name “Café Achteck” (Café Octagon). 

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BERLIN

‘Berlin-Abo’: Everything you need to know about the new €29 travel pass

Berlin's reduced-price city travel ticket to get around on public transport is going on sale this week. We break down what you need to know.

'Berlin-Abo': Everything you need to know about the new €29 travel pass

Berlin’s state government confirmed last week that the €29 per month annual travel ticket was returning to the capital from July. 

The city previously brought in a temporary €29 travel pass covering AB zones after the success of the €9 ticket back in the summer of 2022. 

But the heavily-discounted ticket was shelved a year ago after the federal government brought in the €49 Deutschlandticket – covering all of Germany’s local public transport systems and regional trains. 

READ ALSO: Berlin’s €29 travel pass given green light to start in July

Why is the Berlin’s ticket being rebooted?

The €29 ticket was a key election pledge by the Social Democrats in the 2023 repeat election.

Although they didn’t win the repeat vote, the party entered into a coalition with the conservative Christian Democrats (CDU) – and the SPD have been eager to push their transport initiative.

According to Economic Affairs senator Franziska Giffey (SPD), the offer is aimed at people who find the €49 pass too expensive and those who do not have a discounted company ticket. 

The reduced ticket is also a contribution towards climate neutrality, which Berlin is aiming for before 2045.

It’s undeniably a great deal for people who live in Berlin and use the local transport regularly. But it’s not cheap for taxpayers. 

As well as the subsidies for the nationwide Deutschlandticket which amount to around €135 million for Berlin, the state has set aside an annual sum of €300 million for the new Abo. And politicians think it could even be closer to €350 million. 

READ ALSO: Is Berlin’s €29 ticket for public transport coming back?

When will the new ticket be available and when is it valid?

As the transport operator Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) announced on its website, advance sales for the ticket, which will be called the ‘Berlin-Abo’, will start on April 23rd.

The ticket will then be valid for riding Berlin’s buses, trams, the underground, the S-Bahn, regional trains and ferries from July 1st.

Two passengers buy tickets at Berlin Ostkreuz station

Two passengers buy tickets at Berlin Ostkreuz station. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Christoph Soeder

How do I get it?

An important point is that the ticket will not be available from ticket machines. Instead, keen travellers will have to check out the online BVG subscription site or visit a BVG customer centre. BVG and S-Bahn offer the ticket both as a smartphone ticket and as a chip card.

The ticket is expected to remain in force until at least 2026.  

How does the new ticket differ from the €49 ticket?

The €29 ticket is only valid for the AB fare zone in Berlin. So that covers the area inside the ring as well as the outer part – but not the furthest outer C zone which includes Potsdam and the BER airport. This means that travellers will need an add-on ticket to their Abo to get to the airport, for instance. 

READ ALSO: Public transport use up in Germany ‘thanks to €49 ticket’

Those who have the €29 Berlin pass also won’t be able to travel on regional trains across the country and use local public transport in other places unless they have a valid ticket. 

Another key difference is that the new Berlin-Abo has a minimum term of 12 months. After that, the subscription is automatically renewed and there’s a monthly notice period. 

In contrast, the €49 ticket is valid for all public transport in Germany and can be cancelled on a monthly basis.

Both tickets allow holders to bring along a dog or children under the age of six free of charge – but not a bicycle. 

Meanwhile there are no discounts available for the new €29 ticket. For example, there is no company ticket like the ‘Deutschlandticket Job’ for passengers whose employer partly finances the ticket.

How can I switch to the new ticket if I already have another travelcard?

BVG promises that it will be easy to switch to the new travelcard online. You can edit your own subscription in the BVG online travelcard area. The subscription can also be cancelled there. Alternatively, it is possible to switch to a new subscription at one of the BVG customer centres.

A U-bahn train enters Zoologischer Garten station in Berlin.

A U-bahn train enters Zoologischer Garten station in Berlin. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Jörg Carstensen

One thing to keep in mind is that the introduction of the €49 ticket was an organisational nightmare that resulted in a rush of consumer complaints. If you’re changing subscriptions, make sure to do it in plenty time, and to keep a note of what you do in case there’s an issue down the line. And if you’re going to a customer centre – be prepared for queues. 

The Berlin-Abo has to be ordered by the 10th of the month so that it can be used from the 1st the following month. So for July, get the Abo ordered or switched by June 10th. 

Who should get it? Is it available to tourists?

Anyone can sign up for it – but because there is a minimum term of 12 months, it won’t suit people visiting Berlin for a short period. 

In general, though, anyone who would normally buy an average of eight single tickets each month – or if they have a more expensive subscription – will benefit from this ticket. 

If you’re travelling regularly outside of Berlin using other local transport, you might prefer to stick with the €49 ticket. 

Why is the ticket controversial?

For people living in Berlin, the new €29 ticket will be a welcome addition and will save people a lot of cash. 

But some politicians are not happy – including within the German government. 

Last week, the Transport Ministry called it a “regional rival product” and said the €29 ticket counteracted the aim of the €49 ticket “to radically simplify complex fare systems and streamline structures in the transport associations”.

The Berlin passenger association IGEB takes a similar view. Its spokesman Jens Wieseke told regional broadcaster Rbb that the new ticket would create an “isolated solution”.

“Affordable offers are good. However, new tickets should always be based on the Deutschlandticket,” said Wieseke.

The cost of the new ticket has also been slammed, especially by Bavaria.

Bavarian transport minister Christian Bernreiter (CSU) told the Tagesspiegel that Berlin, as the main recipient of Germany’s state financial equalisation scheme, “basically uses Bavarian money to finance an overall discount for all passengers”. This would ultimately be at the expense of the Deutschlandticket, he said. 

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