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FOOD AND DRINK

French dilemmas: Is it a pain au chocolat or a chocolatine?

The pastry with thin strips of chocolate running through it is a breakfast time staple in France - but what you call it has been the subject of fierce debate that even involved the French parliament.

French dilemmas: Is it a pain au chocolat or a chocolatine?
Whatever you call it, it's still delicious. Photo: AFP

The pain au chocolat v chocolatine battle has been raging for centuries and essentially comes down to a geographical divide.

In the south west of the country it’s a chocolatine, in most of the rest of France it’s a pain au chocolat – although there are some exceptions.

In the far north east France, on the border with Belgium, it is often known as a petit pain or petit pain au chocolat, while along the eastern border with Germany it can be either a petit pain au chocolat or a croissant au chocolat.

This map created linguist Mathieu Avanzi shows the geographical distribution of the term.

Exactly how the different names evolved over the centuries has been much disputed – with one theory blaming the English for it – but what is undoubted is that people is the south west are fiercely attached to the term.

In 2017 a group of schoolchildren from Montauban, near Toulouse, wrote to the president asking that he ensure the term was included in the French dictionary, while in 2018 the matter reached parliament.

A group of right wing Republican French MPs tabled an amendment to the new Food Industry and Farming bill aimed at recognising the term chocolatine.

“For example, this would be the case for the chocolate pastry whose name has historically been rooted in the Gascon region, and which is the pride of all of southern France: the chocolatine,” Aurélien Pradié, an MP from the south west Lot department who was backing the amendment said.

In some parts of south western France bakers particularly attached to the traditional name have even threatened to charge customers more who ask for pain au chocolat.

When we asked The Local’s readers what they called it, the results roughly reflected the geographical split, with 82 percent of people on Facebook saying they would ask for a pain au chocolat when visiting their local boulangerie.

While on Twitter 78 percent used the term pain au chocolat.

What all sides agree on, however, is that they are delicious. 

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ENVIRONMENT

Why Bordeaux wine is under threat in France this year

Winemakers in the famous French Bordeaux wine region fear the weather conditions this spring may lead to a disastrous harvest.

Why Bordeaux wine is under threat in France this year

It’s the second year in a row that mildew has threatened Bordeaux vines. Around 90 percent of vineyards were affected by mildew to some extent in 2023, according to the regional chamber of agriculture.

But this year, the fungus has appeared earlier than usual. “If the weather continues, it’s going to be a disaster,” one vineyard owner told regional newspaper Sud Ouest, as mildew threatens crops. “I’ve never seen mildew strike so early.”

In its latest plant bulletin, the Gironde Chamber of Agriculture underlines the “favourable climatic conditions for [mildew] development” and is pessimistic for the coming days, fearing an increase in potential risk.

In the end, the 2023 harvest was reasonable, helped by favourable August weather – though a heatwave towards the end of the month raised concerns over working conditions.

READ MORE: France to revise its Champagne-making area due to climate change

But last year’s outbreak and the weather so far in 2024 has brought the ‘mildew season’ forward in parts of the region. The Grand Libournais and Graves winegrowing areas are particularly affected, according to May’s Bulletin de Santé du Végétal for Nouvelle Aquitaine.

Winegrowers in the Blayais region, meanwhile, have noticed that mildew spread is erratic – but the expected return of rainy conditions in the early part of next week have prompted concerns that the fungus’s spread will only increase.

“There are abandoned plots, neighbours who haven’t pruned their vines or estates that have been unable to carry out an uprooting program because of the incessant rain,” one vineyard owner said.

Official figures suggest that some 2,000 hectares of vines are uncultivated in the Gironde alone. The Fédération Départementale des Syndicats d’Exploitants Agricoles insists that the real figure is much larger – with implications for the health of neighbouring cultivated vines.

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