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Local knowledge: An insider’s guide to life in Hamburg

What is life really like in the "Pearl of the North"? Our readers in Hamburg shared give their insights into what life in the city is really like. And some had some harsh words for the locals.

Local knowledge: An insider's guide to life in Hamburg
Hamburg at sunset. Photo: Depositphotos/silverjohn

The best way to enjoy a city is to listen to the locals. We used our best resource — our readers — to tell us a little about their time in the Hafenstadt. Even if you already live there, we’ve got together the local highlights, as well as some things to avoid, in Hamburg. 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

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From a rough port city famous for anchor tattoos, stag celebrations, and seedy nightlife to an economic powerhouse with upmarket bars and world-class restaurants, Hamburg is many things to many different people. 

Germany’s second-largest city is also one of its richest. But it hasn’t forgotten its character, with plenty to do and see regardless of budget. 

SEE ALSO: 13 things you can do for free in Hamburg in summer

Hamburg is also a city of constant change. The city's red light district is centred around Herbertstraße, which since the 1970s has had a gate on each side of the street forbidding access for women and under-18s. 

The gates were torn down earlier in 2019 by feminist action collective Femen, who claimed a “highly-symbolic” victory. 

For any homesick Brits, the city's cultural and historical ties to the UK — cough, The Beatles, cough, cough — Hamburg is considered the most British city outside of Britain

‘The Amsterdam of Germany’

Our readers highlighted Hamburg’s international character for making it one of the more open and cosmopolitan cities in Europe. 

One of our readers, Abhishek, is an unabashed Hamburg fan and agreed with all of these sentiments. 

“The best thing about Hamburg has to be the vibes that the city presents,” he said. “Hamburg can be called the Amsterdam of Germany.

“With complicated canal systems, and the river Elbe, Hamburg is a very beautiful cosmopolitan city in the northern part of Germany. The night life of Hamburg, and the areas around the Schanzenviertel are simply awesome.”

Another reader, Manazir, highlighted the Harbour City’s “diversity and tolerance for multiculturalism” as the “best thing about living in Hamburg”. 

Plenty of residents highlighted the international and cosmopolitan feel of Hamburg – as well as the galleries, museums and of course the Hamburg Elbphilharmonie. 

Nightlife

For many tourists — and probably a fair share of locals — Hamburg means Reeperbahn. The famous nightlife strip in the city’s St Pauli district — known as die sündigste Meile (the sinful mile) in German — is home to bars and nightclubs, strip clubs and brothels. 

For a less seedy experience, our readers recommended the Sternschanze neighbourhood.

The Reeperbahn is also home to Beatles-Platz – a memorial which celebrates the Fab Four’s time in the city (there are five statues in the memorial, reflecting ‘Fifth Beatle’ Stuart Sutcliffe, who was a member of the band when they visited Hamburg). 

Hamburg during New Year celebrations. Image: DPA

Although there’s a misconception that the Hamburger was invented in Hamburg,** the true local dish is a Fisch Brötchen (fish roll), which is best served at the Hamburg Fischmarkt every Sunday morning.

Not your usual fish market, the Hamburg version recalls a mini Oktoberfest complete with Schlager music, beer served from 4am and some of the loudest and most charismatic fishmongers you’ll ever meet. 

A tip for making it through a complicated array of salty, smoked and still wriggling menu offerings? Be sure to “taste the fresh deep fried or shallow fried fish specialties” on offer early every Sunday morning. 

Grey in appearance and in demeanour

Not all of our readers were as charmed by Hamburg’s cosmopolitan appeal. 

Even as the birthplace of Chanel legend, the late Karl Lagerfeld, and the origin of the Nivea cosmetics brand, Hamburg’s reputation as a hard-edged port city is hard to shake. 

One of the major complaints about Hamburg was, predictably, the weather. The coastal city is one of the wettest in Germany, with year-round rainfall than Germany’s southern and eastern regions. 

Not only do these grey clouds cast a literal shadow over the city, but it also contributes to people’s moods. One reader, Peterson, who seems to be having a tough time of things in Hamburg, said Hamburgers were “rude, snobby and in love with a city that does not offer a lot”. 

Another reader, James, criticized the city’s ‘Besserwisser’ know-it-all sensibility: “There is often a Besserwisser mentality. People will not hesitate to lecture you about how you “should be’ doing things”. 

**On the topic of besserwisserisch things to say, this will allow you to compete with the best of them. While the origins are contested, the hamburger is believed to have been invented not on the banks of the Elbe, but in the United States. Immigrants from Hamburg served their Frikadeller style of minced meat or meatloaf between two slices of bread – and then the trend caught on. 

Dos and don’ts

We also asked our readers for some dos and don’ts, getting a spectrum of predictable – and less predictable – results. 

The dos included taking a harbour cruise to remembering not to be too formal – Hamburgers prefer a du to a Sie – “greet people with a moin and a smile and they will really like it”, says Abhishek. 

The don’ts however were far less Hamburg specific. 

One reader reminded visitors and locals alike not to “go jumping in the Alster canal or the Elbe river”. 

Another also provided some good advice to those walking down the city’s famous Herbertstraße: “Don’t take photos of prostitutes. It's forbidden and the women will react in an aggressive manner.”

Finally, a reader described the Hamburger Hauptbahnhof as a “pit of chaos” on the weekend, which makes it something to avoid while you’re trying to find the best way to avoid jumping in the Elbe or taking pictures of prostitutes. 

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TRAVEL

Explore Austria: Mauer, a charming wine-hiking spot on Vienna’s outskirts

Catch the very tail-end of the wine season and autumn foliage in one of the lesser-explored corners of the Austrian capital: Mauer.

Explore Austria: Mauer, a charming wine-hiking spot on Vienna’s outskirts
Beautiful views and cosy taverns await you on the edge of Vienna. Photo: Catherine Edwards

Wine-hiking is an autumn must-do in Austria. There’s the official Wine Hiking Day (Weinwandertag) that usually draws in big crowds, but it’s also possible to follow the routes through beautiful scenery and wine taverns on your own.

Mauer in the southwest of Vienna is one of the routes that is mostly frequented by locals.


The footpath takes you through scenic vineyards. Photo: Catherine Edwards

You can reach this part of the 23rd district using Vienna’s public transport, and you have a few options. From the Hietzing station on the U4 line, you can take the tramline 60 or bus 56A. The former will take you either to Mauer’s central square or you can get off earlier at Franz-Asenbauer-Gasse to start the hike. If it’s too early in the day for wine just yet, you could start your day at the small and charming Designo cafe (Geßlgasse 6).

Otherwise, the residential area itself doesn’t have much to see, but keep an eye out as you wander between the taverns later — there are some beautiful buildings.

To start the hike, head west along Franz-Asenbauer Gasse, which will take you up into the vineyards, growing some red wine and Vienna’s specialty Gemischter Satz or ‘field blend’, which as the name suggests is a mixture of different types of grapes.

Photo: Catherine Edwards

The paved road takes a left turn, but the hiking route follows a smaller path further upwards. Here you’ll have magnificent views over the whole of Vienna.

If you stick to the official hiking route (see a map from Weinwandern here) you can keep the whole route under 5 kilometres. But more adventurous types don’t need to feel limited.

You can also follow the Stadtwanderweg 6 route (see a map here) either in full, which will add on a hefty 13 kilometres, or just in part, and venture further into the Mauerwald. If you do this, one spot to aim for is the Schießstätte, a former hunting lodge offering hearty Austrian meals.

EXPLORE AUSTRIA

In any case, you should definitely take a small detour to see the Wotrubakirche, an example of brutalist architecture from the mid-1970s built on a site that was used as a barracks during the Second World War.

Not far from the church is the Pappelteich, a small pond that is not only an important habitat for local flora and fauna, but a popular picnic spot for hikers. Its only water supply is from the rain, and due to climate change the pond has almost dried out in recent years, prompting the city to take action to boost its water supply by adding a permanent pipe.


The church is made up of over 150 concrete blocks. Photo: Catherine Edwards

What you really come to Mauer for, though, are the Heuriger or Viennese wine taverns. 

The most well-known is Edlmoser (Maurer Lange Gasse 123) which has previously been named as the best in Vienna. Note that it’s not open all year so check the website, but in 2021 it should be open between November 5th and 21st, and is also serving the goose that is a popular feature on Viennese menus this time of year.

Tip for translating Heuriger opening times: look for the word ausg’steckt, which is used by those taverns which aren’t open year round. They will also often show that they’re open by attaching a bunch of green twigs to the sign or front door.


Buschenschank Grausenburger. Photo: Catherine Edwards

Also worth visiting are cosy Buschenschank Grausenburger (Maurer Lange Gasse 101a), Heuriger Wiltschko (Wittgensteinstrasse 143 — located near the start of the hiking route, this is a good place to begin your tour) and Heuriger Fuchs-Steinklammer (Jesuitensteig 28).

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