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MATERA

Italy’s Matera in cultural limelight after slum ‘shame’

European Capital of Culture status has shone a spotlight on Italy's oldest city, whose previous claims to fame were an image as a cinematic "New Jerusalem" but also its "shameful" slums.

Italy's Matera in cultural limelight after slum 'shame'
Photo: AFP

Matera, around 9,000 years old and one of the world's longest continuously inhabited cities, after Aleppo and Jericho, was Saturday embarking on a 48-week extravaganza ushering it out of the shadows into the global cultural limelight.

The city shares its mantle this year with Bulgaria's similarly ancient provincial city of Plovdiv, which is known not least for its 4th Century BC conquering by the father of Alexander the Great.

But Matera's story is quite literally one born of a down-at-heel experience, the southern city nestling close to that part of Italy's boot-shaped peninsula.

Centuries of poverty have been a curse and yet the 'blessing' of sorts which eventually put Matera on the map.

Since time immemorial, many residents had lived in its caves, called 'Sassi', dating from prehistoric times.

But in 1993, UNESCO designated the 'Citta dei Sassi' (City of Stone) with its exquisite rock-hewn churches a world heritage site.

The labyrinthine settlements had been a source of shame — shame is one of the cultural programme's leitmotifs harking back to the forced clearances of the Sassi in the 1950s — as well as disease.

In those days the caves were a byword for squalor and the social deprivation of much of Italy's deep south.

With the chance now to showcase its heritage, Matera is seeing tourism soar with official numbers having risen 170 percent since 2010.

The city's stunning rock churches and cave dwellings, boutiques and luxury hotels — some with rooms dug out of the rock beneath ground level — have finally allowed it to shed its old reputation of “la vergogna nazionale” (national shame).

UNESCO's heritage move was, however, not the first bright spotlight shone on the ancient cave city.

Matera's spectacular backdrop gave several film directors their temporary 'new' Jerusalem, with Mel Gibson's 2004 Drama The Passion of the Christ as well as the earlier King David starring Richard Gere shot there.

Cast in its current role of cultural mecca, Matera is now rising above its poor connections to the rest of Italy and its own Basilicata region to showcase its rugged, if crumbling limestone beauty.

Matera was chosen in 2014 to co-host this year's cultural extravaganza with its Bulgarian counterparts and Saturday will see 54 bands from EU cultural centres launch the official proceedings in a blaze of colour and sound.

A total of 2019 musicians will converge on the old centre to serenade culture vultures and Italian President Sergio Mattarella and dignitaries including European Commissioner of Culture, Hungarian Tibor Navracsics.

Italian television will broadcast the proceedings live — but authorities are offering 19-euro ($22) passes for those preferring to taste the atmosphere on the spot.

Each visitor will have the “right” to register, coupled with the “duty” to bring with them an object of their choice, thereby creating their own artistic contribution which will go to make up a final exhibition of its own.

Matera will host four major exhibitions across the year, beginning with “Ars Excavandi,” showcasing centuries of rock art running from Sunday to July 31st.

In all, Matera will host some 60 projects including British composer Brian Eno's “Apollo” soundtrack's European premiere on July 18.

“Nobody in Matera will be a mere tourist but will have the possibility of joining in with the community dimension which characterises Matera 2019,” says the organisers' artistic director Paolo Verri, formerly behind Turin's prestigious book fair.

Organisers forecast around a million visitors to the town in the coming 12 months.

Mayor Raffaello De Ruggieri warns against the excesses which can
accompany mass tourism but readily admits that “it's true, we have gone from shame to glory.”

READ ALSO: Weekend Wanderlust: Matera, Italy's city of caves, contrasts, and culture 

CINEMA

WATCH: New Bond film begins filming in southern Italy… with a car chase

James Bond is back in Italy, this time shooting – what else – a breakneck car chase through the southern city of Matera.

WATCH: New Bond film begins filming in southern Italy... with a car chase
Matera: not a bad backdrop for a car chase. Photo: Filippo Monteforte/AFP

Filming on No Time To Die, 007's 25th movie outing and the fifth and final time he'll be played by Daniel Craig, arrived in this year's European Capital of Culture on Sunday.

Originally slated to begin in April, the shoot got off to an appropriate start: with an Aston Martin speeding through Matera's scenic streets.

Watched by a curious crowd, the crew closed down part of the city centre as stunt doubles – including what looked to be a long-haired blonde in the passenger seat – shot off on a car chase, the spy's distinctive silver DB5 in pursuit of another vehicle.

Craig himself is expected to arrive in Matera in the next few days, for a shoot that will last nearly four weeks and bring an estimated €12 million of investment to the city.

Some 400 jobs are expected to be created by the production, not to mention the knock-on boost for tourism that's likely to follow once the film comes out in April 2020.

READ ALSO: Matera, Italy's city of caves, contrasts, and culture

As well as the scenes by Matera's grand cathedral and ancient, Unesco-listed cave houses, some sequences will be shot in the neighbouring region of Puglia.

The crew picked Gravina di Puglia in the province of Bari, a town famous for its dramatic two-level Roman bridge spanning a ravine, as the film's second southern Italian location.

Gravina di Puglia. Photo: Depositphotos

Bond is well-travelled in Italy, having had memorable escapades over the years in Venice, Rome, Siena, by Lakes Como and Garda, in the mountains of Cortina D'Ampezzo and on the Sardinian coast, but this is the first time the secret agent has headed to the far south of the mainland.

No Time To Die will also feature locations in Norway, Jamaica and the UK, with a supporting cast that includes Naomie Harris as Moneypenny, Ben Whishaw as Q, Ralph Fiennes as M, Léa Sedoux as Madeleine Swann, and Rami Malek as the as yet unnamed villain.

READ ALSO: James Bond's best Italian moments

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