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COFFEE

A brewing movement: Germany’s baristas compete to create world’s top coffee

Almost 80 percent of Germans drink coffee every day and the popularity of specialty coffee is on the rise. As a result, competition was steep this week as Germany's best baristas clamored to brew up the country's - and eventually the world's - top coffee.

A brewing movement: Germany's baristas compete to create world's top coffee
Białczak preparing his signature drink at a previous national competition in Poland. Photo: Marcin Gilarski.

Focused on perfecting brewing methods, optimizing steaming temperatures, and even the way barometric pressure and temperature shifts can impact the nature of a pulled espresso shot, a barista’s work is in the details.

Their performances are captivating to watch as they continuously swoop their milk pitchers up and down towards the coffee cups they are preparing, pulling back in a series of motions until their intended design appears on the drink’s frothy surface.

The 2019 German Barista and Latte Art Championship took place from January 13th to 15th in Nuremberg, where top talent from across the country competed to claim their spots for the upcoming World Coffee Championships.

SEE ALSO: This German barista could be the world's best latte artist

Each participant was given fifteen minutes to prepare one espresso drink, one milk beverage, and one signature drink for a panel of four judges – a total of twelve drinks. While preparing and serving their creations, the baristas carefully explained their choice of coffee and process to the onlooking judges.

Competitor Yuri Marschall, creating his designs in the final round on Tuesday. Photo: Sinan Muslu.

A winning coffee combination

This year’s winner was Polish-born Wojtek Białczak, who has been working at the popular Five Elephant Coffee Roastery in Berlin as the Head Roaster since 2016.

“It’s really difficult to make twelve drinks in fifteen minutes, while also talking about the coffee and the process,” he told The Local.

“For this competition, I practiced this combination a lot. I was inviting baristas from our shops every evening to come and watch me. This really helped me. Every evening I was getting better, faster, and more comfortable competing in front of people.”

During the competition, Białczak used a coffee that he had been introduced to last June while he was competing at the Fushan Cup International Barista Competition in Hainan, China – a competition organized by the People’s Government of Hainan Province to engage both Chinese and international baristas and to showcase Fushan as a coffee producing region.

There a fellow barista from Colombia, Mauricio Romero, had placed second using a naturally processed Eugenioides coffee. Returning to Germany, Białczak got a sample of the uniquely sweet Colombian bean from Las Nubes’ Inmaculada Coffee Farms. He remembers, “I just fell in love with it. I’d never tasted coffee like this before.”

Białczak first started in the coffee industry in Warsaw in 2013, where he took a side job as a barista at Ministerstwo Kawy while he was studying.

“At the time, I didn’t even drink coffee,” he laughs. “I just started working there because it seemed like a nice place to work. They had great staff, including great baristas who were also competing and that’s how I first got interested in coffee. After about six months, I started competing as well.”

Since then, Białczak has competed in five national barista competitions. He’s now looking forward to testing his skills at the World Barista Championships in April.

A movement brewing across Germany

The Latte Art Championship also drew in competitors from across Germany. During this competition, baristas are judged based on visual attributes, creativity, identical patterns in pairs, contrast in patterns, and overall performance. To create an intricate design consistently, both high-quality espresso and milk must be used.

In Germany, around 50% of young coffee drinkers are looking for variety in their coffee experiences. This desire has led to the growth of innovative drinking locations in Berlin and other larger Germany cities, from vintage-style coffeehouses to modern co-working spaces. Cold brew, nitro coffee, and even specialty coffee cocktails can also now be found in many cafés.

Newly minted German Latte Art Champion, Yuri Marschall of Hamburg, took inspiration from the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly soundtrack and created western-themed assortment of images, including both a cactus and a cowboy.

One of Marschall's Western-inspired coffee creations. Photo: Yuri Marschall

Marschall got his start in coffee in 2012 when he worked for a design hotel in Hamburg. Combining his newfound passion for specialty coffee with his love for drawing, he began watching Youtube videos and practicing on his own.

Three years later, he found himself working at Elbgold Roastery, where he improved his latte art skills further, entering his first competition in 2016. Today, you can find him serving up his designs at Drilling Distillery in Hamburg.

According to Marschall, the Latte Art competition is a great introduction into the world of coffee: “The competition is easy to understand for people who are not involved in the coffee scene because you have direct results.”

Looking forward to the World Latte Art Championship in Berlin this June, he says “It will be a lot of fun to see what the whole (coffee) world is creating and pouring into cups.”


Both Białczak and Marschall will be representing Germany’s coffee industry this spring at the 2019 World Coffee Championships. The event will be co-hosted by Boston and Berlin, with the World Barista Championship and the World Brewers Cup taking place in Boston between April 11 and 14th. In June, Berlin will host the World Latte Art Championship, World Cup Tasters ChampionshipWorld Coffee In Good Spirits Championship, and the Cezve / Ibrik Championship.

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CAKE

Kaffee und Kuchen: The history behind a very German tradition

This leisurely afternoon ritual is key to the German lifestyle.

Kaffee und Kuchen: The history behind a very German tradition
A family takes part in the Kaffee und Kuchen tradition in Zellingen, Bavaria. Photo: DPA

The mid-afternoon is a signal to many Germans for a traditional pick-me-up in the form of “Kaffee und Kuchen” – literally, coffee and cake. 

Be it with coworkers, friends, or family, the culture of “Kaffeeklatsch” (the act of catching up over the two delights) enjoys nationwide popularity, typically between the hours of 3 and 4pm. 

READ ALSO: Nine German treats you'll want to eat right now (and one you won't)

You might invite guests to your home to show off your own hand-baked goods, or if you prefer to trust someone else to take care of the baking instead, countless cafes and the more authentic ‘Konditorei’ are dotted all over the country – and as a general rule of thumb, the more old-fashioned, the better.

A typical selection at a Konditorei. Photo: DPA

A longstanding tradition

The origins of the beloved custom can be traced back to the 17th century, when coffee was first imported to Germany. In these times, it was only the aristocracy who would indulge in the pastime, but by the 19th century the indulgent treat became more accessible, and the combination has since become a cultural staple.

Whilst the working world often only allows for a quick, shop-bought treat during the week, Germans will often make use of the weekends to celebrate with large pots of coffee and a selection of delicious sweet treats.

READ ALSO: A brewing moment: Germany's baristas compete to create world's top coffee

And despite being somewhat comparable to the English custom of ‘afternoon tea’, the cakes you’ll find in Germany are nowhere near as dainty.

Expect to see a big slab of decadent Bienenstich, Erdbeertorte or Baumkuchen enticing you from behind the glass counter of the patisserie. 

Regional variations

Exactly how your ‘coffee and cake’ set-up may look differs across the country and time of year, as traditional German cakes vary according to both region and season. 

In the Black Forest, cafes are known for their Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte – indulgent layers of whipped cream and chocolate sponge (with added cherry liquor as the secret ingredient) are topped with chocolate shavings and cherries. 

A slice of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte. Photo: DPA

In Bavaria, it’s the Prinzregententorte, which combines seven layers of sponge and chocolate buttercream to symbolise its seven districts, finished with apricot jam, dark chocolate and cream. 

Frankfurt’s speciality is the Frankfurter Kranz, a Bundt cake layered with jam and buttercream and sprinkled with caramelised nuts. Over the festive period, Germans enjoy Stollen, a Christmas speciality from Saxony – a fruit bread made of nuts, spices and dried fruit and coated with icing sugar. 

Bringing together the chance to catch up with friends and to sample some delicious German delicacies, indulging in ‘Kaffee und Kuchen’ really is the perfect way to spend your Mittagspause (afternoon break).

 
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