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Vienna marks centenary of artistic golden era

Vienna is marking 100 years since the death of a string of luminaries from its fin-de-siecle glory days with an avalanche of exhibitions of modernist art, design and architecture that still inspire and shock today.

Vienna marks centenary of artistic golden era
Visitors walk past a painting titled "Venus in the Grotto" by Austrian artist Koloman Moser during the exhibition at the Leopold Museum titled "Vienna 1900!" Photo: AFP

The year 1918 did not only mark defeat in World War I and the end of the Austro-Hungarian empire but also saw artists Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele and Koloman Moser and architect Otto Wagner pass away.

Klimt died from a stroke at 55, an infection claimed Wagner's life at 76 and cancer killed Moser aged 50. Schiele survived being conscripted into the war only to die in the Spanish flu pandemic, three days after his pregnant wife Edith. He was just 28.

All were leading lights in the revolutions in art, literature, architecture, psychology, philosophy and music that made the imperial city on the Danube the buzzing intellectual hub of the world at the time.

“It was a unique collision of all forms of art and science — the literature of Hofmannsthal, the atonal music of Schönberg, psychoanalysis with Freud and even economics with Schumpeter,” Hans-Peter Wipplinger, director of the Leopold Museum, told AFP.

“Vienna was not always a trend setter, but always good at making something special out of something which already existed,” said art historian Alexandra Brauner. “We made something really special out of it.”

Stairway to Klimt

The Leopold kicked off the anniversary year this week with the first of its six special exhibitions — in Vienna and around there are around 20 — focusing on Klimt, Moser as well as Richard Gerstl and Oskar Kokoschka.

It also showcases examples of classic 1900-era design such as furniture, artisan craftwork and posters created by Moser and others in the Wiener Werkstätte community of artists that he co-founded.

From February a special Leopold show shines the light on Schiele, whose tortured eroticism still causes blushes to this day — as witnessed by the prudish covering up of genitals on advertising posters in London last year.

The Museum of Applied Arts (MAK) will from December 19 show off some of its Wiener Werkstätte treasures and from May 30 looks at the influence of Wagner's influence on contemporaries, pupils and subsequent generations of
architects and designers.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum will next month erect again its “Stairway to Klimt” allowing visitors to examine up close some of the works painted by the artist between the pillars and arches of the building early in his career.

Nazi looters

The Bank Austria Kunstforum will explore Japanese influences, the Jewish Museum will from May hark back to the artistic salons of the time, while the Klimt Villa will look into the looting of many works by the Nazis and what
happened later.

Vienna's thriving Jewish community were big drivers in the city's flourishing intellectual, scientific and artistic scene, not least in buying up artworks to fill their homes.

In his later years Klimt's studio had “two separate entrances. One for models who would then wait in an antechamber, often with next to no clothes on, and another for his rich customers,” said Baris Alakus, director of the
Klimt Villa.

By 1918, Vienna was already starting to be eclipsed, and 20 years later Hitler — rejected as a young man by the Vienna Academy of Fine Arts — annexed his native country, first robbing and then destroying the Jewish population.

The postwar restitution of artworks to their former owners' descendants, now spread around the globe, has been tortuous and in some cases incomplete, with many paintings controversially ending up in state hands.

It took until 1998 for the Austrian parliament to pass a law allowing some 10,000 works to be returned.

In one of the biggest cases, five Klimt masterpieces were returned in 2006 to the descendant of the Jewish family they were stolen from after a legal battle with Austria's Belvedere Museum.

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IN PICTURES: the best outdoor pools in Vienna

Summer is almost here, and the pool season has started in Vienna. Here are six of the city's best ones that you should definitely visit.

IN PICTURES: the best outdoor pools in Vienna

Schönbrunner Bad

If you want to enjoy swimming in green nature and maybe combine it with a visit to Schönbrunn castle and gardens, this is the place to go.

The main pool is 50 meters long and offers space for both people who want to do sport swimming and those who want to swim more relaxed. Besides the sports swimming pool, the place also offers a kids pool, a beach volleyball court, and a small fitness studio.

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If you want to relax, you can enjoy the sun terrace, which also offers shade, or the indoor rest areas.

The pool is open from 8:30 am to 9 pm during the summer months, and a standard daily entry costs €19, since this swimming pool is a private one and does not belong to the city. 

You can book your entry online here. 

 
 
 
 
 
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Schafbergbad 

This is one of the city’s most popular public pools, offering great facilities and amazing views over the city. It is located on a hill on the outskirts of Währing.

The sports swimming pool is 50 metres long, and in the area you will also find a children’s pool with water slides and play areas, a volleyball court, table tennis court, a kiosk where you can eat, and a small fitness studio.

The pool is open from 9 am to 7:30 pm during the week and it opens at 8 am on weekends and holidays.

The standard price for a daily ticket for an adult is €7.60.

You can read more about the pool here

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Krapfenwaldbad 

This public pool from the city offers espectaular views over Vienna from its hilly location in Ottakring.

Here you can enjoy swimming in a 50-metre-long pool, play volleyball or table tennis, or just lie outside in one of the adjustable sun chairs. There is, of course, also a swimming pool for children, a smaller fitness studio, and other facilities.

The standard price for a daily ticket for an adult is €7.60, and you can read more about the place here.

The pool is open from 9 am to 7:30 pm during the week. On weekends and holidays it opens at 8 am.

 
 
 
 
 
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Strandbad Gänsehäufel

Since the beginning of the 20th century, this has been one of Vienna’s most popular public bathing spots.

This beach bath is located on the Danube Island, and you can choose between enjoying some of the area’s natural beaches at the shore of the Danube or their pools.

The area also offers a water slide, mini golf establishment, beach volleyball court, table tennis tables, and much more.

The facilities are open from 9 am to 7:30 pm during the week and it opens at 8 am on weekends and holidays. A standard daily ticket for an adult costs €7.60.

Read more about what they are offering here

READ ALSO: Where in and around Vienna can I pick strawberries?

Kongressbad

Kongressbad is one of the city’s oldest public swimming pools. It takes you back in time with its facility buildings from the end of the 1920s, although of course modernised, so do not worry.

Here you can enjoy sport swimming, an adventure pool, a waterslide, a football court, volleyball courts, or why not a buffet in the restaurant.

Kongressbad is open from 9 am to 7:30 pm during the week and it opens at 8 am on weekends and holidays. The standard price for a daily ticket for an adult costs €7.60, and you can read more about what Kongressbad has to offer here. 

 
 
 
 
 
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Neuwaldegger Bad

Neuwaldegger Bad is a private and family-owned swimming area, located right on the edge of the forest in Neuwaldegg, on the outskirts of Hernals

The swimming pool is large and divided into two parts, one for swimming and one for playing. The area also offers volleyball courts, table tennis tables, and a huge green space for picnics and sunbathing.

A specialty of the place is the restaurant, where the owner prepares home-cooked meals.

The area is open daily from 9 am to 6:30 pm, and a daily entry ticket for an adult costs €19.50.

Read more about the swimming pool here. 

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