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How to enjoy cheese fondue like the Swiss

Fondueziit (fondue time) has begun again! Fran from Swiss food blog Little Zurich Kitchen guides us through the dos and don'ts of eating cheese fondue in Switzerland.

How to enjoy cheese fondue like the Swiss
It's Fondueziit (fondue time). Photo: Ivo Scholz/Swiss Tourism
Besides chocolate, there's probably nothing foreigners associate more with Switzerland than cheese. As we move towards the colder part of the year, the Fondueziit (fondue time) has begun. While fondue will have been popular across much of the country since October, during Christmas is when most Swiss will get their (cheesy) juices flowing. 
 
Fran from Swiss food blog Little Zurich Kitchen guides us through the dos and don'ts of eating cheese fondue in Switzerland.
 
Always declare a fondue party invitation as such
 
First up, an important fondue etiquette to spare you a possibly embarrassing dinner party moment. As popular as cheese fondue is in Switzerland, not every Swiss actually likes cheese, or worse, can stand the smell of it. So, as an unwritten rule, fondue or raclette invitations should always be declared as such in advance, so the invitee can politely decline or the host can find an alternative menu. 
 
Get to grips with the essentials
 
Once October is here, cheese fondue pots can be bought in most supermarkets and household stores. Fondue pots are called Caquelon, both in French and Swiss German. Ideally you should buy one made from stoneware, ceramic, cast iron or china. You'll also need the long fondue forks and the burner which is called Rechaud. Often the set of pot, burner and forks are sold as one item.
 
As for the cheese, different cheeses or cheese mixtures are being used, depending on where you are in Switzerland. The most popular one across the country is called Moitié-Moitié (French for half-half), a fondue mixture consisting of 50% Gruyère and 50% Fribourg Vacherin, two raw cow milk cheeses from western Switzerland. You can find this mixture in any supermarket or cheese shop. For a main meal for four people you need around 800g of cheese. 
 
 
To give the fondue its special taste, several other ingredients are used. An important first step is to rub the fondue pot with a peeled, cut garlic clove. The garlic doesn't go into the fondue as the rubbing alone provides enough garlic taste. Most people add white wine (you'll need about 3dl for 800g of cheese, preferably a dry white wine) and 1 tbsp of Kirsch schnapps but you can also substitute the alcohol  with water or apple juice for an alcohol-free version. Whatever liquid you're using, you'll need to mix it with one tablespoon of cornstarch. And a little black pepper and nutmeg to finish. 
 
Once your Caquelon is rubbed with garlic, place it onto your kitchen stove and add the grated cheese. Gently and slowly heat up the cheese while stirring constantly. Once the cheese is melted add all other ingredients and stir again. Then you're ready to light your burner and transfer the pot and start eating. 
 
This is a basic fondue recipe and the one my family has been using for generations. Of course there are many variations and more exotic additional ingredients ranging from beer, bacon, spices such as paprika, chilli or curry to yellow boletuses and morels or tomatoes – the list is endless really.
 
Choose your bite-sized dipping foods
 
Make your own fondue bread. Photo: Little Zurich Kitchen
 
Traditionally, bread cubes are used for dipping into the fondue. My favourite is cutting up a St. Gallerbrot or a dunkler Pfünder, both brown breads. You could also use a heller Pfünder or another white bread if you prefer. Or, you can also make your own fondue bread, you can find my recipe here. Alternatives to bread are cubed steamed potatoes, steamed vegetables or fruit such as pear, apple or pineapple.
 
As for the drinks, traditionally many Swiss drink white wine with their fondue or a glass of Kirsch schnapps after the meal as a help to digest the cheese. This is actually a myth and the opposite is true:  the alcohol slows down the digestion of the cheese. If you need help with digestion, then try black tea, otherwise just drink whatever makes you happy, even if it's a glass of white wine.
 
Know your fondue etiquette
 
Eating cheese fondue can be a serious matter in Switzerland. In many families or at dinner parties there are penalties in place for losing your bread in the fondue pot, such as singing a song or buying the others a bottle of wine. 
 
Another battlefield is the question of who will get to eat the Grossmutter (grandmother), also known as Nonne (nun), which is the cheesy crust at the bottom of the fondue pot. Some hate it and some love it – I certainly belong to the latter and am always keen to get a share of it. 
 
Fondue is not an easily digestible meal, so it's always best to serve only a light appetizer and a light, fruity dessert. 
 
And lastly, if cheese fondue isn't your thing, read my instructions for the Swiss' best loved meat fondue called fondue Chinoise.
 
For more recipes and articles on Swiss food, visit Little Zurich Kitchen.
 

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DISCOVER SWITZERLAND

Where are the ‘best’ restaurants in Switzerland?

Switzerland is home to some top restaurants, many of which have earned the prestigious Michelin stars. But where are they all and does this mean they are the best? Share your own recommendations below.

Where are the 'best' restaurants in Switzerland?

In October, Michelin presented this year’s renowned restaurant selection of the Michelin Guide Switzerland 2023 at the EHL Hospitality Business School in Lausanne.

The guide introduced five two-star restaurant newcomers (three of which are based in French-speaking Switzerland), while Michelin handed out a total of nine MICHELIN Green Stars for environmentally conscious gastronomy.

In addition to the newly crowned restaurants, Michelin also announced that a further 15 Swiss restaurants had been awarded the Bib Gourmand – which highlights good-value-for-money restaurants – prior to the award ceremony.

Overall, Switzerland’s local gastronomy includes 138 starred restaurants as well as 33 MICHELIN Green Stars-eateries.

So, where can you find the crème de la crème of Swiss restaurants?

Top of the list

The gourmet restaurant Memories, located in the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz (St. Gallen), is among Michelin’s four three-star restaurants this year and a great start for indecisive eaters with an appetite for Swiss alpine cuisine.

Under the kitchen management of Sven Wassmer, Memories’ offers customers seasonal menus consisting of several surprise taste experiences in place of an à la carte menu.

Schloss Schauenstein in neighbouring Graubünden – where Andreas Caminada and Marcel Skibba run the kitchen – is also among Switzerland’s three-star Michelin restaurants, alongside the Cheval Blanc by Peter Knogl in the city of Basel with Peter Knogl as head chef and the Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville in Crissier (Vaud) with Franck Giovannini at the helm of the kitchen.

Two-star newcomers

This year also saw five Swiss restaurants snag two Michelin stars for the first time, of which The Japanese Restaurant at the luxurious The Chedi Hotel (Uri) is particularly noteworthy. Swiss twin chef duo Dominik Sato and Fabio Toffolon took the reins of the Andermatt-based restaurant in the spring where they serve up an exciting blend of Japanese cuisine and timeless European influences.

While in the Deutschschweiz, you may also want to check out the region’s second two-starred newcomer: Mammertsberg.

Diners at this exclusive boutique hotel and restaurant, with Silvio Germann as head chef, get to enjoy elaborate meals with deep flavour while overlooking Freidorf (Thurgau) with views reaching all the way to Lake Constance. A three-course meal at the restaurant will set you back 184 Swiss francs per person and needs to be prebooked.

Those looking to enjoy fine dining in French-speaking Switzerland will find themselves spoiled for choice as three new restaurants have joined Michelin’s two-star ranks.

L’Atelier Robuchon in the city of Geneva, which is housed in the basement of the luxury hotel The Woodward, offers diners a cuisine inspired by regional and seasonal products cooked up by executive chef Olivier Jean.

In neighbouring Vaud, the menu at La Table du Lausanne Palace – with an unmatched panorama overlooking the rooftops of Lausanne, the mountains and the lake – includes anything from delicious frog legs to salmon from Graubünden and wood-fired venison, while La Table du Valrose in Rougemont (Vaud) wows diners with its modern French-influenced menu.

19 new one-star restaurants

2023 also saw a total of 19 Swiss restaurants added to the country’s list of one star Michelin-rated eateries, bringing the total number of one-star restaurants to 108.

Among them is the Wiesner Mysterion – Zauber in Romoos (Lucerne) with its unique alchemical natural cuisine – as chef Stefan Wiesner puts it, for which the restaurant was awarded one star on its first try. The restaurant’s exceptional nine course menu – which is introduced with a short story by Wiesner and tailored to reflect each season – costs 225 Swiss francs per person.

The restaurant ZOE in Switzerland’s capital Bern – which also received the green star for its sustainable concept – is renowned for its modern and creative vegetarian dishes prepared by operational duo Fabian Raffeiner (kitchen) and Mark Hayoz (service).

Restaurants with sustainability at heart

With sustainability gaining importance worldwide, many on the lookout for their next perfect night out also choose to consider a restaurant’s sense of responsibility.

This year, nine Swiss restaurants were newly granted a MICHELIN Green Star for their commitment to the environment and resources and acting as role-models within sustainable gastronomy.

Among them is the modern Zurich-based elmira. Based in the basement of a former silo on the Löwenbräu brewery site, elmira’s cuisine places importance on choosing seasonal products – meat, fish or vegetarian – as well as ingredients sourced from the immediate vicinity where available.

Meanwhile, the La Tapis Rouge in Brienz (Bern) relies on its 2-hectare vegetable garden for fresh produce which is supplemented by local farms and small-scale producers. The produce the restaurant does not manage to use up for either its vegetable-focused or completely vegetarian menu is not wasted, but rather fermented or marinated.

READ MORE: Swiss government wants residents to eat less meat to protect the climate

15 affordable restaurants

In this year’s edition of the MICHELIN Guide Switzerland, 15 new restaurants have received Bib Gourmand award, which highlights restaurants that stand out for the particularly good value for money they offer.

Not surprisingly, most of them are located in rural areas and offer a good assortment of Swiss and international – particularly Asian – delicacies.

If you’re looking for inventive cuisine on a (Swiss) dime in a cosy setting, then you may want to visit the Le Mont-Rouge in Haute-Nendaz (Valais). At the restaurant, guests can order local, authentically homemade dishes paired with a selection of fine wines from the Valais region.

In German-speaking Switzerland, the rustic Schüpbärg-Beizli may be in the middle of nowhere, but it is well worth the trip to Schüpfen (Bern) if it’s Swiss specialties you have your eye on.

The restaurant – or Beizli (tavern) as it’s called in Swiss German – aims to delight guests with a range of traditional Swiss dishes with a modern twist. Its current menu includes cheese ravioli, Swiss salmon, and beef fillet to be followed by a pumpkin pie, plum compote and a variety of ice creams.

You can find a comprehensive list of the remaining restaurants featured on the MICHELIN Guide Switzerland 2023 here.

READ MORE: How many of these must-try Swiss regional delicacies have you tasted?

Is your favourite restaurant in Switzerland in this list? If not where would you recommend for readers?

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