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TOURISM

Ten hidden gems in France you should visit this summer

There's a whole lot more to summer travel in France than the Eiffel Tower, the Riviera, and Mont-Saint-Michel.

Published: 2 August 2017 17:33 CEST
Updated: 13 April 2023 11:20 CEST
Ten hidden gems in France you should visit this summer
The Chambord castle, in Chambord, central France. (Photo by Ludovic MARIN / AFP)

The Local teamed up with travel guide publishers Lonely Planet, whose writer on France, Nicola Williams, helped to uncover some must-see sites that are rarely on the radar of most visitors. 

1. Neuf-Brisach, eastern France

No foray into France is complete without a stroll around a citadel. Vauban built a load of them in France, but Neuf-Brisach on the French-German border is the one to target – it’s the country’s least-known Unesco World Heritage Site. 

Louis XIV commissioned the fortified town to be built in 1697 to bolster French defenses. Its red sandstone walls were constructed in the shape of an eight-pointed star and the sleepy Alsatian town sits inside. See more here. 

People walk in Neuf-Brisach, eastern France, near “La porte de Colmar” (Colmar’s door). (Photo by SEBASTIEN BOZON / AFP)

2. Nernier, eastern France

Lake Geneva is not all Swiss. Much of its southern shoreline is French. And while tourism has made some in-roads – on sunny Sundays Genevans motor to the medieval walled chateau-village of Yvoire for lunch – this lakeside stretch is uncharted tourist territory. 

The sweet spot is Nernier, a shoreline village with cobbled streets, a pebble beach, and a quaint port where you can lunch at Restaurant du Lac and set sail on the lake in an old-fashioned steamer. More info here.

3. Le Brame du Cerf, central France

The autumnal rutting season at Château de Chambord is a fabulous way of rediscovering the most famous Renaissance chateau in the Loire Valley – sans crowds. There is nothing more magical than creeping into the dewy forest at dawn or dusk to watch serenading stags, boars and red deer from hidden watch towers. 

The domaine (estate) is Europe’s largest hunting reserve (there for the exclusive use of the French government no less). More info. 

 

People sit on the grass in front of the castle of Chambord (Photo by GUILLAUME SOUVANT / AFP)

4. Musée d’Art Moderne, Céret, Roussillon

It’s been around since the 1950s, but this outstanding modern art museum in the Pyrenean foothills of south western France is one of those inspirational spaces where you can still lose yourself in a mind-blowing collection stuffed with Chagalls, Braques and Matisses. 

Picasso donated 57 works to the museum and the town itself is a compelling mix of sun-blazed old stone and bon vivant living over Catalan sangria and tapas. More here. 

People visit the exhibition “André Masson, Une mythologie de l’être et de la nature” at the modern art museum of Ceret in 2019. (Photo by RAYMOND ROIG / AFP)

5. Refuge d’Art, Haute-Provence

The French Riviera is a magnet for modern art lovers, but few make it as far as the cinematic limestone ridges, ravines and gorges of the Réserve Géologique de Haute-Provence, a sun-blazed wilderness near Digne-les-Bains in which British artist Andy Goldsworthy exhibits the largest public collection of his work. 

His dramatic outdoor works of art – rock hives, cairns, stone sculptures you can sleep in – are dotted along a 150km hiking trail. More here.

6. Alésia Muséo Parc, Alise-Sainte-Reine

This remarkable historical site in Burgundy only opened in recent years and remains undiscovered by the non-French tourist set. 

Walking around the rebuilt fortifications in the reconstructed Roman camp of Alésia, it is amazing to think this was the very spot where Julius Caesar thrashed chief of the Gauls Vercingétorix once and for all in 52 BC. The actors dressed up as Roman legions and battle demonstrations are particularly entertaining. More info here. 

7. Arbois and Pupillin, eastern France

Wine tourism is a big reason to travel in France and this little known twin-set of addresses in the remote Jura region in the east is pure, unadulterated joie du vin. 

Alongside a cellar full of regular wines, vineyards around Arbois produce rich nutty Vin Jaune (yellow wine) and Vin de Paille (‘straw wine’), made from grapes laid out to dry on straw mats. End with a tour of the wine cellars in the village of Pupillin, built entirely from yellow stone. Find more information HERE.

 

This aerial picture shows the vineyard of Jura in Arbois (eastern France). (Photo by SEBASTIEN BOZON / AFP)

8. Postman Cheval’s Palais Idéal

One of France’s strangest attractions, the Palais Idéal, in the Drôme department is an extraordinary example of architecture and the story behind it is just as astonishing. 

The palace was built by postman Ferdinand Cheval, who had the idea after tripping over a stone in 1879. For the next 33 years he collected single stones to construct what he called a Temple of Nature. The palace was finally classified as a historical monument in 1969. More here.

The “Palais idéal” in the year 2000 (Photo by GERARD MALIE / AFP)

9. Abbaye de Valmagne, Languedoc

This awe-inspiring abbey in southern France fuels two great French passions: wine and architecture. Built in the 12th century, it was inhabited first by Benedictine monks who cultivated vines on the estate. 

With the French Revolution, the abbey church was deconsecrated and sold to Monsieur Granier-Joyeuse, a wine grower who turned the soaring Gothic stone church into a magnificent wine cellar. Never has wine tasting been so good. More here. 

10. Ventabren, Provence

The whole point of Provence in the south of France is to laze away inordinate amounts of time lunching – exceedingly well. Enter Ventabren, a drop-dead gorgeous Provencal hilltop village just 14km from tourist-rammed Aix-en-Provence. 

After roaming empty golden-stone lanes and chateau ruins, there is only one place to lunch al fresco with a sweeping view: La Table de Ventabren. More here. 

The Roquefavour viaduc in Ventabren, southern France, which is the largest stone aqueduct in the world (Photo by GERARD JULIEN / AFP)

Follow Nicola Williams on Twitter here.

An original version of this story appeared on The Local in 2014. 

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TRAVEL NEWS

Travel, events, closures: What to expect over France’s double public holiday this week

Workers in France will benefit from two back-to-back bank holidays this week, with many planning to take the day off on Friday too. From traffic to weather and closures plus strikes, here's what to expect during the public holidays.

Published: 6 May 2024 11:44 CEST
Travel, events, closures: What to expect over France's double public holiday this week

May 2024 is a special one for workers in France, with four public holidays scattered throughout the month, including two (VE Day and Ascension) being back-to-back.

The double bank holiday will lead to offices being closed across the country on Wednesday and Thursday. As such, many people will try to ‘faire le pont’ by taking Friday off as well, giving themselves five consecutive days off work.

In terms of planes and trains, there will likely be larger crowds and longer queues than normal. France’s national rail service SNCF say their trains will be at 95 percent capacity during the holiday period.

As for strikes, previously, French air traffic controllers had threatened to walk out over the jours fériés (bank holidays), but after reaching an agreement with management this was cancelled. 

French cabin crew of the Spanish low-cost airline Vueling did file a strike notice from Wednesday, May 8th to Sunday, May 12th, and this appears to be going forward. If you have a flight booked with Vueling, be sure to check its status before heading to the airport.

READ MORE: French airline staff file strike notice for May holiday weekend

Here is what you can expect in terms of traffic, weather, closures and other events during the first week of May.

Tuesday

Events and closures – Tuesday will be a normal working day, so you can expect shops and grocery stores to operate with normal hours.

Traffic – While Tuesday is not a jour férié, it is expected to be the big day for departures.

According to French traffic watchdog Bison Futé, traffic on French roads will be ‘very heavy’, as people head off on their short holidays.

Try to give yourself extra time to reach your destination.

Credit: Bison Futé

Weather – Forecasters expect rain across much of the country, with the exception of the far west which will start to see sunny skies. In southern France, storms are predicted from mid-afternoon and into the evening. 

Maximum temperatures are expected to range from 14C to 19C in the north of France, and from 11C to 20C in the southern half.

Wednesday (VE Day)

Events and closures – Most workers will have Wednesday off for VE (Victory in Europe) Day. This year will mark the 79th anniversary of the end of the war.

There will be parades and events commemorating the event across the country, but the main one will take place in Paris under the Arc de Triomphe, as a wreath is laid at the tomb of the unknown solider.

The ceremony will be broadcast live on French public television starting at 9.25am. This year President Emmanuel Macron will be in Marseille for the event, in part because it will also fall on the same day that the Olympic Torch will arrive in France. 

You may also see people wearing a bleuet (cornflower) in their lapel – this is the official flower of remembrance in France. Although the wearing of it is more widespread on November 11th – Armistice Day – some people also wear them on May 8th.

In smaller towns and villages, people might gather for drinks or lunch at local war memorials.

Because it is a public holiday, expect administrative offices in France to remain closed, and the same will go for banks and some shops.

Supermarkets usually remain open – often with reduced hours – while shops in the bigger cities are also likely to be open. In most places, cafés and restaurants open as normal so you can enjoy lunch or drinks with friends and family to celebrate the day off work.

Traffic – In terms of traffic, Bison Futé predicts that the situation will be moderately difficult for departures.

Credit: Bison Futé

Weather – People in France can rejoice as the sun makes its return. Other than in the far north early on in the day, expect sunshine and mostly blue skies – though occasionally stormy showers may develop in the southeast later on. 

Temperatures of between 17C and 20C are forecast in the northern half of the country, and between 18C and 21C further south.

Thursday (Ascension)

Events and closures – Expect banks and public services to be closed on Ascension Day (Thursday). Shops may operate reduced hours or services – supermarkets may close their Drive operations for the day, for example – but many open as normal.

As Ascension is a Christian festival, there will be special mass services at local churches. 

Traffic – Roads in France will be clear, with ‘normal’ traffic conditions according to Bison Futé.

Weather – Temperatures are expected to be mild, with sunny skies. There may be a few clouds in northern France, but the south is forecast to have wall-to-wall sunshine for most of the day. Isolated storms may develop in the southern Alps late in the day.

Temperatures of between 18C and 20C are forecast in the northern half of the country, and between 19C and 24C further south.

Friday

Events and closures – Even though Friday is not a public holiday, the fact that it straddles two days off and a weekend means that some public services and businesses may shut completely. Meanwhile, most schools give their pupils (and teachers) and extra day off on Friday to allow for a long weekend away.

Otherwise, you can expect the majority of stores, restaurants, supermarkets and cafés to open with normal operating hours.

Traffic – Another clear day. Bison Futé predicts normal traffic on French roads.

Weather – Forecasters predict that overcast conditions will return in the northern half of the country on Friday – perhaps to remind everyone that it’s not quite summer yet – but the skies are expected to remain clear in the south, with temperatures forecast to climb past 25C in the southwest of the country.

Saturday

Events and closures – Aside from extra crowds at popular holiday locations, there not are expected to be  any closures or changes to hours that are out of the ordinary for a Saturday.

Traffic – As people start heading home, slowdowns will increase on French motorways. Across the country, expect return trips to experience moderate to difficult traffic conditions.

Credit: Bison Futé

Weather – Other than a few thunderstorms in the south of the country, expect dry, warm, sunny weather across the whole of France over the weekend, with early summer temperatures reaching into the upper 20s celsius to match.

Sunday

Events and closures -There not are expected to be any closures or changes to hours that are out of the ordinary for a Sunday. However, if you are spending time in the French countryside and you hail from a city, remember that supermarkets and shops tend to close earlier than normal on Sundays.

Traffic – Bison Futé predicts that return travel will be congested on Sunday, as holidaymakers head home after enjoying the May public holidays. Traffic is expected to be ‘black’ (extremely slow) in the north-west, while the rest of the country has been marked in red for (very slow). You can consult their predictions here.

Credit: Bison Futé

Weather – Same forecast as Saturday.

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