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FASHIO

US labels make Paris debut on haute couture catwalks

Two high-end American labels make their Paris haute couture debuts on Sunday in a week when the French capital pays tribute to two of fashion's legends.

US labels make Paris debut on haute couture catwalks
Models display fashions during the Rodarte Spring-Summer 2017 Runway show at New York Fashion Week in September 2016. Photo: Timothy A. Clary/AFP
New York-based Proenza Schouler and Californian house Rodarte — who normally present their collections at New York fashion week — have been invited into the elite haute couture fold, which shows only in Paris.
 
 
Their debut as guest members comes as Chanel's veteran maestro Karl Lagerfeld will be given the Grand Vermeil medal, the highest honour the city of Paris can bestow, and a major new exhibition opens about Christian Dior.
 
The Belgium label A.F. Vandevorst and Holland's Ronald van der Kemp have also been invited to show on the haute couture catwalks for first time alongside French brand Azzaro.
 
Only 15 fashion houses including Chanel, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Margiela and Giambattista Valli have the right to call their work haute couture.
 
Their entirely handmade creations, which can cost tens of thousands of euros (dollars) for a single piece, are worn by some of the richest and most powerful women in the world.
 
 
French haute couture designer Julien Fournie — whose clients include royalty — said he welcomed the inclusion of the American brands, which are best known for dressing Hollywood stars.
 
“Everyone has the right to come to Paris to measure themselves against the greats. All the better (that) the Americans come and we will see what they can do,” he added.
 
Karl Lagerfeld honoured
 
Los Angeles-based Rodarte, run by sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, have dressed pop star Katy Perry and made headlines with their 2014 “Star Wars” dresses which carried images of Luke Skywalker and robot R2-D2.
 
They designed the costumes for the ballet movie “Black Swan”, and its star Natalie Portman wore one of their gowns to pick up her Oscar for best actress in 2011.
 
Her husband French choreographer Benjamin Millepied has worked with the sisters on a number of his ballet productions.
 
Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough will show their spring summer ready to wear line they would have shown in New York in September, allowing them to deliver it to shops two months ahead of the competition.
 
The haute couture shows will also see newly appointed French designer Maxime Simoens take his first bow at Azzaro, which was founded half a century ago by the Italian Loris Azzaro.
 
 
But the big set-piece events of the week will as ever be the often spectacular Dior and Chanel shows.
 
Maria Grazia Chiuri will present her second couture collection for Dior on Monday which will be followed by the opening of a new exhibition dedicated to the house's founder Christian Dior at the city's museum of decorative arts.
 
The show, “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams”, which will run until January 2018, traces the history of the brand from Dior's invention of the “New Look” after World War II right up to Chiuri, who became its first female artistic director last July.
 
And 83-year-old Lagerfeld, known as the “kaiser” for his mastery of the fashion world, will be presented with the Grand Vermeil medal on Tuesday after Chanel's show at the Grand Palais by the mayor of the French capital, Anne Hidalgo.

SWEDISH DESIGN

Christmas shopping guide: Swedish design online

Waited till the last minute to pick up a gift for the design aficionado in your life? Here's help. We've dusted off The Local’s quintessential guide to the best of Swedish design online with some old, some new and some just plain odd.

Christmas shopping guide: Swedish design online

Design House Stockholm

www.designhousestockholm.com/

High-end Swedish design, both new and classic, including favourites such as Form Us With Love’s Cord Lamp.

Urbanears

www.urbanears.com

Launched in December, Urbanears is a new headphone brand to come out of Sweden. In collaboration with Zound Industries, Stockholm industrial design firm Norra Norr is responsible for the design and development of these snazzy cans, which come in three models and 14 colours. Each of these unisex, minimalistic headphones comes stock with microphone and remote compatible with a range of mobile devices, including Nokia, Iphone and Blackberry. Available for sale online at Karmaloop.

Gallerie Pascale

www.gallerypascale.com

One of Stockholm’s two main design galleries, Pascale’s webshop offers jewelry, graphics and housewares by Swedish designers such as Claesson Koivisto Rune, Alexander Lervik and Lotta Kühlhorn.

Designgalleriet

www.designgalleriet.com

Although Stockholm’s other design gallery doesn’t have its own online shop, it will be providing a way to rid yourself of unwanted Christmas gifts. Stop by on January 9th for Designgalleriet’s “Christmas Swopping” event to exchange that crockpot for something you might really use. Leftover items will be donated to the Salvation Army (Stadsmissionen).

Fuldesign

www.fulshop.se

Fuldesign, which means “Ugly design”, is a Stockholm-based studio claiming to be inspired by “everything from German gay porn, Sci Fi and anxiety to old ladies and good music.” Check out their web shop for everything from raunchy embroidery (with witticisms like “If you don’t remember it, it didn’t happen”) to a pillow pistol. Also visit www.fuldesign.se for free patterns, stencils, naughty robot music and instructions on how to make your very own ugly monster.

Juniform (In Swedish only)

www.juniform.se

The latest Swedish design and fashion online. Selected products from well-established and up-and-coming Swedish designers. Here you’ll find everything from gender-neutral children’s clothes, vintage wooden clogs from the 1970s, the latest Odd Molly garments to jewelry, wool socks and pillow cases. Brands include Odd Molly, Swedish hasbeens, Moonkids, Shampoodle, Färg och form, Trots, Lummen, GUPP, KADE, Acne jr, Viveka Zera and Arbeståhl Design.

Moderna Museet

shop.textalk.se

Like its analogue equivalent, Moderna Museet’s online gift shop is a great place to pick up some unique presents sure to please art lovers and designofiles. Products include posters, books, stationery, interior decor, kitchen wares, games and kids toys.

Designtorget

www.designtorget.se

One-stop shopping for all of the Swedish design you could ask for. The navigation at least is translated into English. The website offers a selection of the full collection available in Designtorget’s stores in major Swedish cities.

Signerat (In Swedish only)

www.signerat.se

An excellent online store that provides an outlet for no less than 207 independent Swedish designers. The site is similar to Brooklyn-based Etsy (www.etsy.com) in the US, which bills itself as an “online marketplace for buying & selling all things handmade”.

Kuji-goji Design

Kuji-Goji

For the house-hunting expat. Although he’s since moved back to his native country, Japanese graphic designer Masaaki Oyamada temporarily settled in Stockholm last year, and made this t-shirt to assist him in his navigation of the Swedish sublet market.

Kiss&Bajs

www.kissochbajs.com

That’s right, adorable stuffed poo. For potty-training the kids, or freaking out their parents. It gives a whole new meaning to Mr. Hanky the singing, dancing Christmas Poo.

Dizel&Sate

www.dizelsate.com

Street-smart stocking stuffers in the form of limited edition lighting, posters, prints and tees from graphic design duo Dizel&Sate.

T-post

www.t-post.se

Subscriptions to the “world’s first wearable magazine”. Every six weeks, T-post commissions a new t-shirt featuring a bespoke design on the outside, and the latest news on the inside. Read all about it.

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