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The best books about Paris you need to read

Here are some of the best books ever written about about Paris, according to authors in France. How many have you read?

The best books about Paris you need to read
Photo: Kyu/Flickr
The Only Street in Paris
 
France's cook book king David Lebovitz recommends recent release The Only Street in Paris, by Elaine Sciolino. 
 
“She captures a small part of Paris (the rue de Martyrs), a microcosm of the city, and it reveals much about French culture as she describes the pastry shops, fish markets, fromageries, and other businesses that line one of my favorite streets in Paris,” he tells The Local. 
 
“Time has changed the feel and composition of the neighborhood, as it has to the rest of Paris, and she does a remarkable job chronicling how France has held on to its past while at the same time, works to maintain what makes it so special.”
 
 
 
Tableau de Paris (Panorama of Paris)
 
Elaine Sciolino herself says Louis-Sébastien Mercier's classic is “the forgotten jewel of French literature”. 
 
“One of the best ways to experience the smells, sounds, sights, and feel of Paris on the eve of the French revolution is to plunge into Louis-Sébastien Mercier’s Tableau de Paris,” she says.
 
“Mercier was the first street reporter of Paris. He wandered the streets with his notebook, recording the habits and customs of all sorts of people: prostitutes, police, street vendors, beggars, philosophers, priests. 
 
“Mercier was more than a detached observer. He opened conversations with just about anyone. Immediacy, not deep analysis, was his objective, so he is easy to read. His Tableau de Paris is a never-ending source of discovery, a forgotten jewel of French literature.” 
 
500 Buildings of Paris
 
Author and blogger Lisa Anselmo can't go past photo-filled gem by Kathy Borrus. 
 
“I’m one of those people who can’t get enough of nostalgia, architecture, history, and trivia—oh, and Paris. This book has all of this, and I’m completely obsessed,” she says.
 
“Originally 1000 Buildings of Paris (how I would have loved that), the abridged edition is just as packed with photos, facts, and some jaw-dropping trivia about the buildings and monuments that make the City of Light, beautiful and interesting.”
 
Anselmo is the author of My (Part-Time) Paris Life: How Running Away Brought Me Home. Buy it here
 
Zazie dans le Métro (Zazie in the Metro)
 
British author Stephen Clarke suggests Zazie dans le Métro by Raymond Queneau.
 
“There are all sorts of interpretations of this novel – that one character is the angel Gabriel or that it's a parody of Homer, but I enjoy reading it as a joyful comedy about a young “provinciale” coming to 1950s Paris because she's always dreamt of riding on the Métro, and getting embroiled with a bunch of seedy underworld characters,” he says.
 
“Queneau's language is a delight, he puns all the time and transcribes words phonetically so that every sentence becomes a joke. Most of all though, the café and street scenes are just so brilliantly Parisian.”
 
Clarke's latest book is “Merde in Europe”. Read more here
 
Paris, Trance

 
Blogger Adam Roberts recommends Geoff Dyer's 1998 novel Paris, Trance. 
 
“Geoff Dyer's hypnotic tale of dance music, ecstasy, friendship and self-discovery in 1990s Paris corresponds in many ways with my own early experiences of the city in the same period,” he says.
 
“His Paris is an unusual one, an exotic playground that exists in the thrilling present rather than a nostalgic past. I was already a big fan of Dyer, an extremely visceral and charismatic writer, before he published this novel, so having the city I was seeing described in his words was a powerful treat.” 
 
Adam Roberts is the creator of the Invisible Paris blog and the author of the Paris Cityscopes guide that will be published in spring 2017.
 
 
 
The Flaneur: A stroll through the paradoxes of Paris
 
Paris-based US author Pamela Druckerman claims Edmund White's novel from 2001 changed her perceptions of the capital.  
 
“I read it soon after moving to Paris over ten years ago,” she says. 
 
“White was the first person I encountered who acknowledged that, despite Paris's many charms, it is perfectly rational to feel adrift and even a bit depressed here. He made me feel like I wasn’t nuts – and that I wasn’t alone. Isn't that what books are for?”

 
Paris: The Secret History
 
Paris-based British author and journalist Peter Gumbel's favourite is Andrew Hussey's 2006 classic Paris: The Secret History.
 
“It's a riveting and highly original account of the French capital as experienced by those living in its soft underbelly – the thieves, urchins, prostitutes, and other sans-culottes who have been every bit as important for shaping the city's culture as the aristocrats, grand visionaries and intellectuals who are usually celebrated.”

 
Bel Ami
 
Paris-based author Matthew Fraser has gone for Bel Ami by Guy de Maupassant. 
 
“I read this about twenty-five years ago and have re-read many times. It's a fascinating study of social ambition and moral corruption in late 19th century Parisian society,” he says.
 
“In my opinion Bel Ami is the French 'Great Gatsby'. In truth, not much has changed since time of Maupassant — especially his portrait of Parisian journalists and their connections to the rich and powerful.”
 

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OPINION: ‘These are the things that make Madrid a celebration of daily life’

Did you know that a gin and tonic tastes better in Madrid than anywhere else in the world? This is just one of things that makes Spain's capital a place to love, according to author Soledad Fox Maura.

OPINION: 'These are the things that make Madrid a celebration of daily life'
Photo by Victor Garcia on Unsplash

Sometimes Madrid feels like a huge, sprawling city (i.e. if you’re on the M-40 highway), but if you manage to stay within the central part, and walk or use public transport, it can feel like a collection of charming, connected villages or small towns. I love the latter incarnation of the city because of its human scale, and the way it reflects organic urban growth.

When I was little my mother and grandfather would often point out a newly developed area, and tell me “There used to be nothing there. La Castellana was a dirt road where children went roller skating”or “The bus route that now goes to Pavones used to end right here at the Retiro Park. That was the end of that part of the city.”

Where there was nothing, new apartment blocks were built so that people could move out of crowded neighborhoods like Chueca. Flash forward a generation later and many of the people who grew up in those contemporary utopian developments with grassy areas and swimming pools would do anything for an apartment in Chueca and other central neighborhoods that came into their own and became the height of trendiness.

There were many empty building plots or solares in my childhood. These made the city seem even sunnier and brighter than it nearly always is. Over the years I have come to love new small neighborhoods that I have lived in, and discovered others along the way. Some of my favorite places are lifelong standards. My Madrid is a mix of a primal blueprint and constantly adapting to novelty and my changing tastes.

For many years, I studied flamenco at the Amor de Dios dance studios on the Calle Santa Isabel, just across from the Filmoteca de Madrid.The studios are on the second floor of the Mercado de San Antón. I always looked forward to walking through the market, seeing the varied stands, and enjoying the aroma of one of the best olive vendors in Madrid. Once upstairs, there was nothing but flamenco. Small and large studios, showing their wear and tear, but fully functioning and packed all day with students, mainly local, but some international, learning bulerías, or guitar, or cante jondo, or how to play the flamenco percussión instrument, el cajón.

The windows of one of the small classrooms looked onto the inner courtyard of a convent. I always wondered what the nuns thought of the racket we made. For an hour a day I could feel like a true bailaora and I always left the market with a delicious purchase, or some flowers, and a feeling of exhilaration. I hope that Amor de Dios—temporarily closed–survives the pandemic. It is such a magical madrileño institution, thanks to the hard work, passion, and arte of generations of teachers and students.

A perfect afternoon-evening for me would be a dance class with sevillano Juan Fernández, a movie at the filmoteca, and a quiet dinner at Vinoteca Moratín. Another favorite is the Renoir Retiro cinema (great selection of V.O. films) and then a bite (or two) at the bar of Catapa.


Photo: AFP

 

Of course I love the Prado, Thyssen, Reina Sofía, Caixa Forum—all so spectacular and so conveniently located in the same part of the city–and many other smaller museums. I have spent many hours at the Prado preparing to teach Spanish painting, and I don’t think there could be a nicer place to work. The museum’s library is also beautiful. 

I have a special weakness for Casa-Museos, like the Lazaro Galdiano and the Sorolla museums. It’s always wonderful to imagine how artists and collectors lived, and these beautiful properties with their gardens are like time machines that take us back to a luxurious version of Madrid where people lived in palacetes much like the hotels particuliers of Paris.

The Biblioteca Nacional is also one of my favorite places to study Spain’s past or find books and documents unavailable elsewhere. Just having access to the building and its collections is a privilege. The Residencia de Estudiantes is a semi-hidden cultural center with rosemary and lavender-lined walkways off of the Calle Serrano. It’s where Federico García Lorca, Buñuel, Dali (and many other notables) lived as students. Tip: not only does it have an intense program of evening events, it also has a wonderful, peaceful, sleek restaurant.

Madrid is a celebration of daily life. Basically, give me almost any madrileño barrio, and this could be defined as simply as a city block with a panadería, a farmacia, news agent, a couple of bars, a butcher, and a frutería, where my morning errands and breakfast (and sometimes even a second breakfast) can be taken care of, and I’m off to the races.

But nothing beats a mercado. After San Antón (which I have renamed the Flamenco market) my favorite is El Mercado de la Paz, built in 1882. It is not in my barrio, but it is close enough to walk to and once a week I go to have lunch at Casa Dani and buy a few special things.

Casa Dani, reknowned for its pincho de tortilla, is a small restaurant in the middle of the market and has no windows to the outside, but this doesn’t stop it from having the best menú del día in Madrid. The options change every day, but I can go for months with a salmorejo, lubina, and fresas con naranja. The affordable menú (which is not just menu with an accent on the “u”, but “prix-fixe”) changes daily and once in a while I will go for the sopa de cocido or the extravagant arroz con bogavante. One must arrive early or be prepared to wait in a long line. The construction workers and local office people who are regulars know exactly when to show up and accompany their meals with tinto con casera or cañas.


Photo: AFP

 

After all this eating and/or research at a library, I need to clear my mind, and get some fresh air. Many of my favorite destinations are just across the Retiro Park, so whenever I can I walk under the horse chestnut trees that line the wide promenades. The Retiro is large enough for me to take different routes every day. In May the book fair, Feria del Libro takes over and I like to go early in the morning before it gets mobbed to make my way through the infinite maze of vendors that set up shop. In other seasons, the international bookshop Desperate Literature on the Calle Campomames is a must.  Books, a park, and a pincho de tortilla just about cover the basics of an ideal life for me.

Look up at the city’s sky and it is an ever-changing series of blues that become lavender-tinged at sunset. The evening is the perfect time to wander around the Madrid de los Austrías—the gardens of the Príncipe de Anglona, the tabernas on the Cava Baja, and the lovely artisanal jewelry workshop that Helena Rohner has on the Calle del Almendro. Just the name of the street makes me happy. 

On another note, Madrid is a very easy city to love and leave. There are many nearby escapadas to be taken. Especially by AVE. The high speed train has revolutionized life in Spain, and in under 3 hours you can leave from the Atocha train station and be in the center of Barcelona, or in Sevilla or Córdoba. In 20 minutes you can be in Segovia (from Chamartín Station) and in the heat of summer I like to go to La Granja, just minutes from Segovia and home to an eigtheenth century former royal summer palace. The palace’s gardens are at an elevation of close to 1200 meters, and the temperature is notably cooler and clean. Even in August.

I often remember Langston Hughes’ description of Madrid during the Civil War. Bombs were falling, but people were out on the streets, and in bars drinking a beer if they could get their hands on one. After the 2008 economic crisis, a foreign journalist friend came to Madrid and was indeed skeptical about the financial woes of Spain, “All the bars and terrazas are full. Doesn’t look like a recession to me,”she said.

Madrid has survived difficult and tragic times—the Civil War, a decades-long dictatorship, financial and political crises, and most recently, the pandemic and the lockdown. It is mourning and witnessing ongoing Covid-19 deaths. And yet, madrileños are out on the street every day getting to work, looking after their families, and still enjoying the daily, simple pleasures the city offers. El mundo sigue.

On a final note, a gin and tonic tastes better in Madrid than anywhere else. Visitors have pointed this out to me over the years, and I agree. The tonic is always served in a little bottle (and not from one of those sad soda guns) and the lemons are fragrant. Is there more to the secret? Some people say the water in Madrid is especially delicious, so the ice also has a geographical advantage. Salud.

Soledad Fox Maura is a Professor of Spanish and Comparative Literature at Williams College. She has recently published articles in El País and Lit Hub, and her first novel, Madrid Again, was released in November 2020 by Arcade. The  MAdrid bookstore Desperate Literature will be hosting a virtual book launch on December 19th. More details HERE

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