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CHOCOLATE

Swiss choc master creates donkey’s milk chocolate

A chocolate maker in Morges, in the canton of Vaud, has produced the country’s first ever chocolate made from donkey’s milk, thought to be suitable for people who are allergic to cow’s milk.

Swiss choc master creates donkey’s milk chocolate
File photo: Aurelien Guichard

Gérard Fornerod created the speciality chocolate in collaboration with the Eurolactis society, also based in Morges, which produces cosmetics and other products using donkey’s milk.

In 2014 Pierluigi Orunesu, founder of Eurolactis, hit the news when he travelled to the Vatican to present his products to Pope Francis, who revealed that he was fed donkey’s milk as a child growing up in Argentina.

“When he returned Pierluigi suggested that I make recipes with his product. I started to make pastries and the result was really good,” Fornerod told Le Tribune de Genève on Sunday.

Wanting to create a product with a longer shelf life, Fornerod soon developed a donkey’s milk chocolate which is the first such product in Switzerland.

Donkey’s milk is said to be the closest animal milk to human breast milk. Rich in lactose and fatty acids and lower in fat than other milks, it is thought to boost the immune system and may be suitable for those who are allergic to cow’s milk.

The ancient Greeks and Egyptians considered it an elixir, and Cleopatra famously bathed in the stuff.

In 2013 the UN Food and Agriculture Organization said donkey’s milk has “particular nutritional benefits” since its proteins may make them more suitable for people who are allergic to cows’ milk.

Speaking to The Local on Monday, Orunesu said he set up Eurolactis since there was plenty of demand for donkey’s milk products but very little on the market.

“It’s the closest milk to mother’s milk. And that’s very good for all problems relating to allergies and for nutrition,” he said.

The new donkey’s milk chocolate is a first in Switzerland, since all chocolate here is made from cow’s milk, he said.

“So it’s a way of innovating, and above all it brings a lightness to the chocolate that cow’s milk does not have,” he added.

Orunesu is confident there is a market for donkey’s milk chocolate, particularly among those who are allergic to cow’s milk.

“Not only in Switzerland. In the modern world between four and five percent  have allergies and that’s on the rise.”

However there aren’t actually many donkey’s milk producers in Switzerland. Though Eurolactis was created in Switzerland, most of the milk comes from Italy, he said.

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CHOCOLATE

Swiss chocolate consumption falls to 40-year low in pandemic

The desire for comfort food during the pandemic has failed to boost the fortunes of Swiss chocolate.

Swiss chocolate consumption falls to 40-year low in pandemic
Photo: STEFAN WERMUTH / AFP

Swiss chocolate makers were perhaps expecting a sweet spot as people turned to comfort food during the pandemic but are instead facing devastating 2020 figures showing consumption in Switzerland melting to a 40-year-low.

Chocosuisse, the national federation of Swiss chocolate makers, painted a bleak picture this week of the impact that the Covid-19 crisis had taken on the industry, with plunging production, exports and even consumption.

And Lindt and Sprungli, one of the wealthy Alpine nation’s most famous chocolate makers, published its annual results Tuesday detailing a nearly 11-percent drop in its 2020 revenues, to 4 billion Swiss francs ($4.4 billion, 3.6 billion euros).

Amid lockdowns and a pandemic-fuelled economic crisis last year, it may not be surprising that Swiss chocolate makers overall saw their production fall, shrinking 10 percent compared to 2019, to 180,000 tonnes, according to Chocosuisse.

And exports, which account for nearly 70 percent of Swiss chocolate makers’ revenues, fell by more than that, slumping 11.5 percent in 2020, to 126,000 tonnes.

More surprising perhaps is that the country renowned for its love of high-quality cocoa products, where people gobble up more chocolate per capita than anywhere else in the world, also saw consumption drop.

Lowest since 1982

In fact, annual consumption fell to below the symbolic threshold of 10 kilogrammes (22 pounds) per person, dipping to 9.9 kilos — the lowest level since 1982.

A major contributor to the drop, Chocosuisse chief Urs Furrer told AFP, was the steep decline in foreign tourists, who tend to tip the consumption scales.

The per capita chocolate consumption in a country is calculated by dividing the volumes sold by the number of inhabitants, leading to inflated figures in Switzerland, where chocolate treats are a favourite souvenir.

“It would be impossible to calculate the exact consumption of residents, because in shops, the salespeople do not know if their customer lives in Switzerland or is a tourist,” Furrer said.

But the absence of tourists is not the whole explanation for last year’s decline. In Switzerland as elsewhere, the health crisis and accompanying restrictions including forced teleworking, has had a clear impact on consumption habits.

“Consumption also dropped in areas that are usually crowded with passers-by, like train stations and city centres,” Furrer said, pointing out that chocolate was often an impulse buy by people on the move.

Physical distancing requirements have also taken a toll on social occasions where handing over a box of chocolates might be expected.

“The sale of gift boxes of pralines has also declined,” Furrer said.

At the same time however, the sale of raw products like chocolate masse usually used by chocolatiers, bakeries and patisseries rose last year as more amateurs delved into making their own sweets at home.

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