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Local Guide: the best of Rome

Exploring all that Rome has to offer - from its architectual brilliance to the local markets - is almost impossible. But here are the bits you really won't want to miss...

Published: 15 November 2016 17:34 CET
Updated: 25 January 2017 16:09 CET
Local Guide: the best of Rome
Photo: Pixabay

The Basics

When in Rome, do as the Romans do…it’s a cliché, but also kind of true – especially when it comes to food.

Few cities in the world can rival Rome when it comes to artistic heritage, historical legacy, and luscious cuisine. The Eternal City is haven of ancient artefacts, world-class museums, and ornate piazzas – a colossal of furtive cobbled streets, each with their own story to tell and history to explore. The heavenly aroma that seeps from the ancient buildings and monuments is something that will never leave you – a beautiful concoction of coffee, fresh fruit, and vegetables mixed with a zest for life, love, and fun.

Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither can it be explored in a day.  But with these hints and tips, you’ll stand a better chance of getting the most you can out of what promises to be a memorable trip to the Italian capital…  

The Highlights

Colosseum

Photo: Pixabay

There’s nothing original about this suggestion – in fact, it’s probably on top of the vast majority of city guides as the number one attraction in Rome, and justifiably so. Whether you choose a moonlight tour to see the Colosseum lit up after dark or an underground tour to explore where the gladiators would prepare for battle – the best way to experience the Colosseum in all its glory is with a guided tour. Yes, it’s busy, and of course it’s touristy, but it’s also unlike anything you’ll have ever seen, or ever will see again.  

Campo de’ Fiori

Photo: Pixabay

A bustling marketplace by day and a dining hotspot by night, Campo de’ Fiori is a favourite among the tourists and locals alike. Swing by during the day to immerse your senses in the delightful aromas erupting from the endless stalls of fresh fruit and vegetables, and don’t forget to pick up those all important souvenirs from the stream of (supposedly) authentic Italian gifts.

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Be sure to return in the evening for a completely different experience – enjoy a glass (or bottle) of wine at one of the many bars and restaurants before dining beneath the stars with that unforgettable market scent lingering in the cool Italian air.

Pantheon

Photo: Flickr

Originally built between 27 and 25 BC as a small temple dedicated to the Roman gods, today the Pantheon is the most preserved building of Rome’s ancient monuments, and one of the most influential buildings in the world. Beyond the imposing sight of the 16 Corinthian columns is a demonstration of Roman ingenuity – the largest concrete dome in architectural history.

The view within the Pantheon is just as breathtaking as it is from the outside – a daunting open space lit only by the streak of natural light from the oculus. Best of all, visiting this masterpiece won’t cost you a penny – the best things in life really are free!      

Piazza di Spagna

Photo: Flickr

Admiring the wealth of historical buildings and artefacts Rome has to offer is unequivocally fascinating… but you might eventually (or inevitably) need a break from the old in order to shop for the new, and if (or when) that happens, Piazza di Spagna is the place to go!

With a variety of upmarket brands and classy department stores, a couple of easy hours here is guaranteed to quench your retail therapy thirst. What’s more, Piazza di Spagna is located at the bottom of the achingly beautiful and historic Spanish Steps which are also worth a visit…there’s no escaping a history lesson when you’re in Rome!

Vespa Tour of Rome

Photo: Fred PO/Flickr

This might not be the first thing you do, but by the end of your trip, you’ll be delighted it’s something you’ve done in Rome. Recreate those archetypal shots of Vespas whizzing around the Eternal City that you’ve no doubt seen in the movies with a Vespa Tour of Rome by Scooteroma. Ride along the ancient cobbled streets of the capital experiencing sights, neighbourhoods, and special locations that aren’t accessible by foot in an exhilarating and informative way.

Earn a trip to Rome – by shopping

The Self Drive Vespa Tour of Rome is incredible, but for an even more extraordinary experience, opt for the Foodie Vespa Tour and indulge your senses with some classic Italian food markets, traditional Roman street snacks, and the oldest bakeries in town.

The Hidden Gems

Parco Degli Acquedotti

Photo: Vincenzo Gravina/Flickr

Break away from the city for a few leisurely hours in the lush surroundings of Parco Degli Acquedotti. Easily accessible and perfectly located just outside the city, this is the best spot in Rome to soak up the Italian sun, pause for a picnic, or take a laidback stroll in the fresh open air. And if that’s not enough to convince you to visit, then the outstanding Roman viaduct (Aqua Claudia) that towers above the greenery is sure to twist your arm.    

The Aventine Keyhole

Photo: Eje Gustafsson/Flickr

No one seems to know whether the striking view of Rome veiled in the keyhole of an inconspicuous door on the Aventine Hill was a happy accident or masterfully executed peepshow, but one thing’s for sure – it is totally worth a visit.

The clandestine keyhole vista reveals a sweeping view of St. Peter’s Basilica perfectly aligned with the garden on the opposing side of the door – it’s a spectacle that will become deeply ingrained in your memory of Rome, partly because it’s utterly picturesque, and partly because taking a photograph of the view through a keyhole is no easy feat…   

Gianicolo Hill (Janiculum)

Photo: Eje Gustafsson/Flickr

Speaking of stunning views, if you’re looking for that instagrammable shot of Rome guaranteed to make all your friends and family green with envy, then Gianicolo Hill is the place to go!

After a reasonably short walk to the top, you’re rewarded with a tremendous panoramic view of the city in all its elegance and beauty, including glimpses of such ancient landmarks as the Colesseum, the domes of the city centre, and Pincio Gardens of the Villa Borghese. It’s peaceful and quiet – except when a single shot of a cannon is fired at noon of each day to mark the exact time (a quirky 19th century tradition!)

San Lorenzo

The young soul of an otherwise ancient city, San Lorenzo is rapidly rising to its reputation as the energetic, up-and-coming district of Rome. It may not share the same grace and prestige as Centro or Trastevere, but if you’re looking for an upbeat, tourist-free neighbourhood with a chic lifestyle and buzzing nightlife, San Lorenzo is the place to be.

With a dense student population, there’s a real bohemian vibe to this dynamic part of Rome, a vibe that is amplified throughout the effervescent underground bars, cafés and hip discos that are sprinkled around the neighbourhood. Street art and graffiti galore, San Lorenzo goes against the grain of Ancient Rome in a way that’s affordable, unique, and a whole lot of fun.

Where to eat

Osteria Bonelli

Photo: kyle tsui/Flickr

Dining in Rome is a wonderful experience, but if you don’t know where to go, it’s easy to wind up in a classic tourist-trap restaurant unknowingly grazing on little more than a frozen pizza. For an authentic Italian experience, follow the locals to their favourite feasting spots dotted around the city.

Osteria Bonelli, for instance, is a true culinary gem with all the interior charm and homely feel of a warm Italian grandparents’ kitchen. Their delectable menu of reasonably priced pasta dishes demonstrates how real Italian food should be – a lot of pasta and a lot of love for not a lot of money!       

La Pergola

Photo: duluoz cats/Flickr

Add a dollop of quality to your Rome dining experience with a luxurious evening at La Pergola – the only three-star Michelin restaurant in the Italian capital. With exquisite interior décor and stunning views over the Eternal City, the mouth-watering food at La Pergola is every bit worthy of the grand location and upmarket price that comes with it.

Bonci Pizzarium

Photo: Flickr

You cannot visit Italy without grabbing a takeaway pizza at some point during your stay – so why not swing by Bonci Pizzarium, and enjoy some of the best pizza in Rome. The crazy range of flavours and combinations are just as amazing as the taste and crispiness of the crusts and pizza bases. A slice of authentic Italian pizza, but with a trendy Roman twist, pizza from Bonci Pizzarium is a must try when you visit.

Roscioli

Photo: Young Sok Yun 윤영석/Flickr

This is the place to turn to for a real celebration of Italian cuisine. With wine tasting, a sumptuous bakery, and traditional patisserie, Roscioli offers much more than a fancy meal downtown.

That said, the speciality dishes: Carbonara Roscioli and Pizza Rossa Roscioli, are absolutely divine, and would be a welcome treat after a spot of wine tasting, or simply as a fitting end to a long day in the Italian capital. Food at Roscioli oozes quality and screams passion, the service is excellent and the location even better – there really are few greater ways to top off a day in Rome than with a meal at this culinary gem.

Pane e Salame

Photo: Pane e Salame on Facebook 

Want a quick snack in the middle of Rome? Pane e Salame is where you need to be. It may look like your average sandwich shop from the outside, but on the inside awaits a gastronomic experience your taste buds won’t regret or forget.

Pane e Salame doesn’t just sell sandwiches, they craft them with care and serve them with affection – these are sandwiches with a Roman kick. It’s a popular retreat for both tourists and locals, and with its central location, there is often a lengthy queue. But if there has ever been a lunch worth waiting for, this is surely it.

Getting there

Photo: Pixabay

When in Rome you now know exactly what to do – but first you have to get there

Luckily there are plenty of quick flights from Stockholm, Copenhagen, and Oslo.

You can also get there using 30,000 SAS EuroBonus points. Or,if you earn just 15,000 points with SAS EuroBonus American Express® Classic Credit Card in one calendar year – that’s enough to get you there, too! When you spend 100 000 SEK or more in one calendar year you get a 50 percent discount on a bonus trip with SAS within Europe. Find out how to earn your Rome trip here.

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This article was produced by The Local and sponsored by American Express.

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MARRIAGE

Marriage vs de facto partnership – which is the better option in Italy?

High costs, unimplemented laws, and slow processing times are all barriers to having a de facto relationship recognised in Italy. Is it better to get married?

Published: 5 April 2024 14:06 CEST
Marriage vs de facto partnership - which is the better option in Italy?

Back in 2016, the Italian government passed the Cirinnà Law, which granted more rights to unmarried couples in the country and cleared the way for the state to recognise them as de facto couples (coppia di fatto).

These rights include access to their partner’s medical records in the event of an illness, visitation rights if the partner is in prison, and eligibility to receive any damages if the partner died in a third-party accident. These were not rights unmarried couples had beforehand.

The law outlines that the couple can be heterosexual or same-sex, must be over the age of 18 and must not be related. Documents for an application include signing a Declaration of Constitution of De Facto Cohabitation (Dicharizione Di Costituzione Convivenza di Fatto) along with identity documents. The couple must be living together and registered at the same anagrafe.

It sounds easy enough to obtain, doesn’t it? But the theory turns out to be much more straightforward than the practical. 

Take Steven Leeming and his Italian partner Giulia. Steven partially relocated to Italy from the UK eight years ago. He had been living in the country on and off due to the duo working overseas. They sought a coppia di fatto after the Brexit transition period.

“No one really knew what to do because the transition period being over was so fresh, so people were a bit confused when we asked for our relationship to be recognised,” Steven says. 

When Steven applied for the coppia di fatto two years ago, he did not have Italian residency due to being out of the country for long periods of time. He was advised to enrol in an Italian language course so he could get a student visa and his permesso di soggiorno, which most non-EU citizens should have to be in the country if they want to spend more than 90 days in a 180-day period. The language course he was proposed cost around 5,000 euros.

READ MORE: What you need to know about divorce law in Italy

“It was too expensive for us,” his partner Giulia says. “So this was not a good option at all. We went to a lawyer instead and they said to us we should go to the anagrafe and ask for Steven to be put down in the same residency as me.”

This is where the couple faced a problem. The anagrafe could not put Steven down as living in the same address as they could not find Steven in the Italian system therefore they were told the couple could not register as a coppia di fatto.

“We were stuck in a never-ending loop,” adds Giulia.

This is a hurdle quite a few international couples looking to get coppia di fatto in Italy face if they do not have residency in the country. 

The Court of Bologna was one of the first to rule people without a permesso di soggiorno could get a coppia di fatto. Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP.

In 2020, the Court of Bologna and the Court of Modena ruled foreigners have the right to enter Italy to be reunited with an Italian partner even if they are not registered on the system. The Court of Milan, the province in which Steven and Giulia now reside, ruled the same a year later in 2021. 

“We were stuck,” Giulia continues. “We went in there with the laws printed out, and they still wouldn’t listen.”

Steven says he gave up on getting a coppia di fatto in Italy. It just so happens his granddad was Polish and he was able to get his Polish passport. As he is now a citizen of the European Union once more, it is easier for him to be in Italy.

“In total it took me seven months to get my passport and cost me 1,000 pounds, which is a hell of a lot quicker and cheaper than getting a coppia di fatto from here,” Steven adds.

The two were advised time and again to get married as it would make things easier.

“We didn’t want to do this, because it is within our legal rights to be recognised as a couple without being married,” Giulia says.

“I do understand the logic behind their advice though,” joins Steven. “It would have been quicker to be able to stay in the country and get your rights recognised.”

READ ALSO: Why you shouldn’t take your husband’s surname in Italy

Steven and Giulia aren’t the only couple who have been advised to get married.

UK citizen Robynne Eller, an E-learning consultant in Bari, says she’s been advised time and time again to do the same with her Italian partner. The two met in the UK and lived there together for two years before making the move to Italy in May 2021. 

Robynne enrolled onto a university course so she could get her permesso di soggiorno. When she finished, she and her partner applied for a coppia di fatto. That was last year, and there is still no word on the progress of her application.

“I feel like I’m stuck in limbo,” Robynne says. “With the permesso di soggiorno, I had my receipt in hand so I could leave and enter the country without being held up by border control. With the coppia di fatto application, I received nothing.”

Robynne is worried about leaving Italy for now, in case border control don’t let her back into Italy – but she says she’ll have to do it soon as her grandmother back in the UK is ill.

Her permesso expired in December last year. When she asked her immigration lawyer what to do, he responded that she was fine because her application for a coppia di fatto was in place.

“I have nothing to hand if they question me on my motive to be in the country,” Robynne says. “Without my documents, I can’t do much here. I can’t progress in my field of work because I need a contact and to have a contact you need to have a number. 

READ ALSO: The five most essential pieces of paperwork you’ll need when moving to Italy

“I can’t be put down on rental agreements. And I can’t fly out to see my family or go on holiday. I’m trying to construct a life here but I don’t know where I stand.”

Robynne and her partner have both paid sums of money to the immigration lawyer, who has not updated them frequently nor given them a timeline on when the coppia di fatto will be completed. She says it is infuriating because this is something you should be able to do alone without legal help.

“Anything bureaucratic is really complicated and lengthy and I’ve learnt not to expect the same things as I would in the UK. But on top of that I want a future here and that isn’t secure yet.”

Robynne is also infuriated at the fact she has been advised to marry by local government workers. She sees the choice to marry as a highly personal one and discloses she would like to marry her partner one day, but she has recently got divorced and cannot contemplate marrying again so soon after. 

“If there is a law for a coppia di fatto, Italy should implement their law,” Robynne argues. “What they should not do is try and force marriage on people. That’s not right.”

The same advice was given to another British citizen, who has asked to remain anonymous for visa processing reasons. She moved to the Sorrento area just last month with her child and partner. 

They decided the coppia di fatto was not for them as it was too lengthy, and marriage is not on the cards just yet.

She was fortunate enough to be able to apply for a family reunification visa as her daughter is a dual citizen. She chose the visa as she supposed she would stand a greater chance of being permitted to stay here. 

“We’ve submitted the family reunification application and have a date to attend the appointment in November. I’ve been told I am fine to stay until then as it’s an ongoing thing, even though it will take me over my 90-day limit,” she says.

Unlike Robynne, she has been told she can fly to and from the UK with no restrictions. 

As seen with all three cases above, the coppia di fatto route in Italy, though legal, is by no means necessarily easy. There is still a lot of uncertainty around the process despite it being legal for eight years. 

Getting married for some may not necessarily be better, but as Steven pointed out, it would very likely be quicker.

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