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FOIE GRAS

French foie gras industry warns of Christmas shortages

France's foie gras industry is struggling with the fallout of a bird flu scare that has led to a 25 percent drop in production of the controversial delicacy.

French foie gras industry warns of Christmas shortages
Photo: AFP

Jean-Jacques Caspari of the foie gras industry association CIFOG warned on Tuesday of shortages and soaring prices that were likely to last even beyond this year's festive season.

Foie gras — consumed in lavish quantities in France at Christmas and New Year — is the “fatty liver” of geese and ducks that have been force-fed grain.

“We can expect an increase in the price of foie gras of between 10 and 20 percent,” he said, adding that this year would see a 25 percent drop in production the 18,820 tonnes produced in 2015.

He said the industry still had “12 to 18 months” before it can expect to recover from an avian influenza scare that broke out in November last year at a chicken farm in the Dordogne region.

The highly virulent H5N1 strain of the bird flu virus is lethal to birds but does not infect humans easily, although when it does it is fatal in about 60 percent of cases, the World Health Organization (WHO) says.

The potential for infection comes when a human is in very close contact with a live bird that is sick with the disease.

Agriculture officials responded to the outbreak by imposing restrictions on poultry farms until mid-May.

Abattoirs will not resume their activities until August 16, the date by which new force-fed birds will be available for slaughter.

CIFOG estimates a loss of 270 million euros ($300 million) for the industry.

The bird flu scare also hit exports of the delicacy, expected to drop from 4,560 tonnes in 2015 to 3,160 tonnes this year.

France usually produces 75 percent of the world's foie gras.

Rival foie gras producers Hungary and Bulgaria are expected to fill the gap in France and make inroads into markets that stopped importing from France, notably Japan's.

The luxury dish has become a battleground between animals-rights campaigners and defenders of France's gourmet traditions.

Force-feeding — known as “gavage” in France — has been banned in several countries but is legal in France.

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FOIE GRAS

Ban ‘barbaric’ French foie gras, Danish politicians urge EU

Danish left-wing party SF (Socialist People’s Party) wants a debate on whether it should be legal to produce and sell French delicacy foie gras in the EU.

Ban 'barbaric' French foie gras, Danish politicians urge EU
File photo: Benoit Tessier / Reuters / Ritzau Scanpix

The party, a parliamentary ally of the governing Social Democrats, wants foie gras banned in the European Union and has called its production “barbaric”.

“It is one of the most barbaric ways food can be produced. These birds are treated very badly, and we don’t think it’s okay,” SF spokesperson on food Carl Valentin said.

“Danes have actually already morally rejected this to a large extent. Consumption is falling fast [in Denmark, ed.] and production is already illegal in Denmark. That’s why we’re focusing on this issue,” Valentin continued.

Discussion of the matter by politicians follows a decision by management at Torvehallerne, an upscale food market in Copenhagen, to recommend its concession holders not to sell the French dish, a paté made from the livers of geese or ducks.

Torvehallerne made the decision after customers posted complaints on its Facebook page over the sale of foie gras at Ma Poule, a stand at the market which sells French specialities.

Although production of the delicacy is banned in Denmark, importing it is not, as such a ban is prevented by European Single Market laws.

Foie gras production involves overfeeding geese and duck for the last two weeks before they are slaughtered. This causes them to develop fatty liver disease, with the organ expanding to six to ten times its normal size, according to Danish animal welfare charity Dyrenes Beskyttelse.

90 percent of foie gras now comes from geese, rather than duck, which was previously the preferred bird, according to the Danish Veterinary and Food Administration (DVFA). Although the majority of production is in France, the foodstuff is also made in Belgium, Bulgaria, Spain and Hungary.

EU rules do forbid foie gras from being produced in places where it has not previously been made, according to the DVFA website.

Valentin said he wanted the union to outlaw what he termed a “dish for the upper classes”.

“The reason I mention the upper class is that this is very much a dish for the upper classes. I think it’s sad that there’s so little focus on animal welfare and more thought goes to pleasing taste buds than protecting animals,” the SF spokesperson said.

READ ALSO: Why Danish milk cartons now carry three helpful words

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