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FASHION

‘Fashion sustainability requires innovation’

This week was Fashion Week in Stockholm - and that means more than catwalks and clothing. The focus needs to be on innovation and how to create sustainable clothing, Swedes say.

Fashion Week is a popular event across Europe and the world, where new and exciting designs shock and delight on the runway and fashionistas decide what to wear next season.

But in Sweden, a country devoted to sustainability and innovation, it has an additional focus.

“With the right kind of innovation, we can consume less, and consume in better ways,” Swede Madelaine Levy, editor of fashion magazine Bon, said at an event about the future of fashion. “Sustainability requires innovation.”

Levy hosted an intriguing panel discussion with several of the top names in the industry to discuss exactly what the future of fashion is – and the lines between fashion and technology were quickly blurred.

One of the panelists was Bradley Quinn, a well-known fashion journalist who has worked with 'Wearables' – the next generation of fashion, featuring technology blended into clothing. Quinn said that all of our clothing will be filled with technology very, very soon.

“Brands can really benefit from wearable technology,” he said. “Fiber optics and LEDs can be powered by batteries or even heat from the body to create clothing that lights up. This is valuable in sports, for example when people are working out at night and need to be seen in the dark.”


An example of wearable technology, a dress by CuteCircuit.

Nanotechnology will also enable manufacturers to produce clothing that is waterproof, has more interesting textures, changes colours, and much more. In fact, technology and lifestyle have already blended in essentially all other arenas – and Quinn said that very soon engineers and fashion designers may be one and the same.

“Nowadays new graduates have more skills than those who have been working in the industry for 15 years,” Quinn remarked. “You get students saying, ‘Hey, why don’t we grow a dress in the lab?’ These young people are already changing the world of fashion.”

Indeed, Swedish and international students at the Beckman's College of Design in Stockholm are already changing fashion. Each year 14 students are selected to collaborate with well-known Swedish brands and create their own cutting-edge interpretations and put on a show. Get a glimpse at this year's designs below.

Another panelist was Francis Bitonti, a designer from New York who specializes in 3D design. His most famous production was a black dress produced for model Dita von Teese. 

“The dress has 3,000 unique moving parts,” Bitoni said. “Most 3D printed garments so far have been armour or just fabric, but this we printed as a completed dress.”


The 3D printed dress.

In short, the technology of the future is already here. And as soon as 2016, wearable technology will be entering mainstream fashion, according to Quinn.

Since Sweden is on the frontlines of sustainability, and also a key player when it comes to fashion, the panelists agreed that the country can be a leader in this area.

"For instance, with 3D printing we can download a product instead of shipping it, and this means that you can produce on a local and low-level scale, saving money and cutting carbon emissions," Swedish designer Julia Krantz said. 

Krantz said that another impressive development already underway is for consumers to scan their bodies and create customized products. She is one of the designers behind Volumental, a part-Swedish company which is already working with body scanning.

Such developments are still a ways away, but the important change – which is already taking place in Sweden – is how companies view consumers and production, Krantz said.

“The most radical part of this is putting the consumer in the beginning of the production process and value chain, rather than at the end.”

READER INSIGHTS

‘Benny is always very kind’: Foreigners’ top encounters with Swedish celebrities

We asked The Local's readers to tell us of a time they met a Swedish celebrity. Here are their best stories.

'Benny is always very kind': Foreigners' top encounters with Swedish celebrities

Some readers shared stories of encounters with Swedes who are also global stars, such as Abba or the King and Queen of Sweden, others spoke of meeting national celebrities who had helped them get to know their new home country.

Anne Foo from Malaysia is a fan of the Sällskapsresan movies by Lasse Åberg, who plays the kind but hapless Stig Helmer.

“It was one of the first Swedish films I watched when I first moved to Sweden that I could understand without needing to be fluent. It helped me understand the Swedish psyche and their humour and Swedish people in general,” she said.

Multi-talented artist Åberg is also known for his sketches of Mickey Mouse, as well as Trazan & Banarne, one of Sweden’s most famous children’s shows, and his band Electric Banana Band. Anne met him when she visited his museum, Åbergs Museum, outside of Stockholm.

“We were not expecting to see him there but we kind of heard he pops by the museum often to help out. We bought tickets for the guided tour and lucky us the guide fell sick (sorry guide!) and Lasse, who happened to pop by just then, took over and gave us a personal guided tour of his museum. He is just as he was as Stig Helmer. Has a down-to-earth humour, very intelligent and humble.”

Another reader, Doug, met Swedish singer Lisa Nilsson when she was performing the lead role in the musical Next to Normal at Stockholm’s Stadsteater, a performance she got rave reviews for.

“I have loved Lisa Nilsson for years, ever since Himlen runt hörnet was required listening in my Swedish class,” he wrote on The Local’s Facebook page.

“After the performance I waited by the stage door to see if I could meet her. Many people came out, but not her – until finally she exited, alone. I approached her and she was not just gracious – she seemed genuinely excited to meet an American fan. We stood (in the rain, no less) and spoke for a while. I came away feeling that my adoration was well-placed: talented, beautiful, and so down to earth. A wonderful entertainer and an extraordinary human being.”

Some readers also shared pictures of themselves running into a Swedish celebrity.

Benjamin Dyke met football coach Sven-Göran Eriksson in Torsby, where Eriksson grew up, at the opening ceremony of the Svennis Cup, a youth football competition held every year in his honour.

Eriksson, more known by his nickname Svennis in Sweden, during his long career coached teams such as Lazio in Italy and brought England, as coach, to the quarter-finals of the 2002 and 2006 World Cups. Earlier this year he disclosed he had been diagnosed with fatal pancreatic cancer.

Dyke’s encounter with Eriksson happened a few years ago, and he walked up to the Swede to thank him for his time as England manager and the two chatted for a while about that.

“He asked where I came from in England and I answered that all my family come from Liverpool. His eyes lit up (I now know he supported Liverpool all his life, as did his dad) but when I explained that I was an Everton fan (the other Liverpool team…) he quickly shut down the conversation and walked away,” said Dyke.

Sven-Göran Eriksson, left, and Benjamin Dyke in 2018. Photo: Private

Readers also shared their stories on The Local’s Facebook page. Lindelwa posted a picture of her chance meeting with Swedish Melodifestivalen winner John Lundvik at Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport, although she revealed they did not share a flight.

Lundvik represented Sweden in the 2019 Eurovision Song Contest with the song Too Late for Love (and co-wrote the UK’s entry, Bigger than Us, the same year), with which he came in fifth.

Lindelwa and John Lundvik. Photo: Private

Gerard met Abba legend Benny Andersson outside his studio in Stockholm.

“I had never seen Benny’s studio so I went to take a look with the ferry from Djurgården to Skeppsholmen. I was told that Benny was in so I waited for a little while and he came out to meet a few fans,” he said, revealing that it was in fact not the first time he ran into Andersson, a composer also known for co-writing hit musicals such as Chess and Kristina from Duvemåla.

“He’s always very kind and patient. I had met him before, last time in 2010 in London for the concert of Kristina at the Royal Albert Hall. Next stop will be May 27th, the second anniversary of Abba Voyage in London where Benny and Björn will do a Q&A before the show.”

Gerard and Benny Andersson back in 2010. Photo: Private

Several other readers also said they had met members of Abba.

“I was a child visiting my relatives in Sweden the year Voulez-Vous was released. My aunt took me to NK [Stockholm mall] to buy the LP. On our way back to her apartment, she spotted Frida on Hamngatan. My aunt was amazing at celeb-spotting, and she was usually very discreet, but in this case she insisted I go up and say hello! Frida was happy to autograph the album for a young fan; it’s still one of my prized possessions today,” said Sue Trowbridge.

Of course, it’s not always easy to recognise celebrities. You might spot a familiar face but not be able to place it, as happened to Linda on two separate occasions when she ran into a Swedish acting star and a member of the Nobel Prize-awarding Swedish Academy.

“I accidentally stared at Pernilla August in a local food shop. She looked familiar but I couldn’t recognise her. She stared back and I suddenly came to my senses and looked another way. Embarrassed. I’ve also stared at Horace Engdahl,” she said.

In The Local’s original survey call-out, we also included a story from Australian reader Jake Farrugia, who was on his lunch break in NK when he spotted a familiar face, Sweden’s Crown Princess Victoria. He walked up to her to ask for a selfie.

“She was very nice and we shared some small talk which truly made me feel like we were on the same level and that she had a strong sense of humanity, as I stood there, butchering her native language with my ‘work in progress’ level of Swedish. I can see why the Swedish people have a deep love and respect for her,” Farrugia said.

“It’s a very un-Swedish thing to do, that’s why I think it’s so fun! All of my encounters with celebrities in Sweden have been very positive so far. It’s all in the approach, you have to be respectful and be OK with others not wanting to give you their time of day, since we all have days where we are feeling less social and those can easily be interpreted as a part of our character, but they rarely are a fair representation.

“If I were to be a celebrity, Sweden would be the place to best blend in. It seems like celebrities can live a somewhat normal life as the construct of ‘celebrity’ isn’t viewed as a thing people go hysteric for as is the case in many other countries.”

The Local’s reader Jake Farrugia snapped this selfie with Sweden’s Crown Princess Victoria. Photo: Private
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