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RESTAURANT

Do Indians like Sweden’s Indian restaurants?

"Indisk" food is nothing more than a label in Stockholm, many Indian expats complain. They let The Local in on two major no-nos in the quest to quench the Indian tastebuds with authentic flavours.

Do Indians like Sweden's Indian restaurants?
Stockholm's south Indians long for regional cuisine. File: VagabondTravels/Flickr

For many expats, dining at Indian restaurants has become one of their favourite weekend activities, yet finding the right one has been a trial of patience for many.

Many of the Indians who move to Sweden choose their new local restaurant after reading reviews on the travel website Trip Advisor, which has listings for almost 1,900 Indian restaurants across Sweden. Or they rely on word of mouth. Many have been left grumbling about the chef's nationality, however.

"Having people from Bangladesh cooking Indian food can never give a good taste," says Aditya Bhushan, a senior software developer in Stockholm.

It's no secret that many Bangladeshi chefs have moved into the Indian eatery scene in Sweden, with Indian Garden's head chef Karim Rezaul telling The Local that the right spice mix was the secret recipe for success. And while Rezaul's restaurant got a big thumbs up from many expats, many of his compatriots have utterly failed to sway the Indians in Sweden. 

“They do not have the right sense of Indian food,” says Priyanka Lekhwani, who works in finance, while another expat, who didn't want to give their name, succinctly summarized the complaint: "They have a flavour of theirs, sold under the name of Indian food.”  

Noting the chef's provenance – Indian restaurants run by subcontinental neighbours – flowed like a strong undercurrent in the Indian expat community's criticism of the restaurant scene. But what exactly is wrong with the food?

For one, it has been altered to suit the Swedes' sweet tooth, they pointed out.

See expats' favourite five Indian restaurants in Stockholm 

“Paneer lababdar, mushroom masala, or chicken tikka masala are spicy Indian dishes, but when they are served sweet, it turns out to be a nightmare,” says one expat. 

Aviral Shukla, a software developer, loves his food. He has tasted the food at almost all of the Indian restaurants in and around Stockholm.

"Most of the dishes are tailored to meet taste of Swedish people," the gourmand tells The Local. "(It's) not the real Indian taste."

Nor does he like the decor or ambiance of most places.

"Just putting (up) a few antique pieces or Indian paintings on the wall does not make the place Indian," he says. "Most of the times when I visit an indisk restaurant, I feel disappointed."

But back to the food for a moment. Why not, Shukla queried, have two sections on the menus? One for authentic Indian dishes, and one for the adapted ones?

Behind the tidal wave of complaint, however, lay an understanding that restaurant owners had to make a living and cater to the Swedish market. Owing to commercial reasons, most of the Indian dishes were prepared as per the taste of the Swedes, which makes Indians unhappy, but does any restaurant get a passing grade? 

Indian Garden topped the list.

"It's the only one that has a taste that's close to authentic," says Amit Ghai.

"Even more importantly, the ambiance is good," Aditya Bhushan says of the Mughal archways, purple walls, and burnt orange curtains.

Indian Garden was followed by Bollywood, Cardamom, Razmahal and Shanti. 

Publishing the list of restaurants to which Indian expats gave the thumbs down would take too much time, The Local concluded. The expats did, however, give feedback on what the many subpar restaurants could do to up their game.

"Lots of chutneys…. Indian sweet and spicy sauces," says Shubhra Goel, who thinks condiments could go a long way in saving some of the more mediocre eateries. 

Many of the expats also wanted new dishes to be added to the menu of the Indian restaurants.

"It's two kinds actually, the street food and the South Indian food," says Bhushan.

Many expats from the south of India said that the idli (a savoury fermented rice cake) and the dosa (an over-sized fermented pancake) were on their desired menu. Punjabi expats from India's north wanted dal makhani (black lentils with kidney beans), shahi paneer (cottage cheese curry) and various other cottage-cheese dishes.

Although the Indian expats gave unsatisfactory reviews to almost all the Indian restaurants in Stockholm, their love of Indian food has kept many trying more and more places.   

"I WILL NEVER QUIT!" software developer and chutney-lover Goel concludes in an all-caps email.

Deepti Vashisht

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RESTAURANT

Restaurant of legendary chef loses third Michelin star

The restaurant of famed French chef Paul Bocuse, who died almost two years ago, has lost the coveted Michelin three-star rating it had held since 1965, the guide said on Friday.

Restaurant of legendary chef loses third Michelin star
L'Auberge de Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or was 'no longer at the level of three stars', the guide said. Photo:
The retraction of the coveted three-star ranking, coming just three years after Bocuse's death,  has prompted anger and dismay from many of his peers.
 
The Auberge du Pont de Collonges, near food-obsessed Lyon in southeast France, was the oldest three-starred restaurant in the world, having held the accolade without interruption since 1965.
   
The Michelin Guide told AFP on Friday that the establishment “remained excellent but no longer at the level of three stars” and will have only two in the 2020 edition of the famous red book — known as the “Bible” of French cuisine.
 
The Bocuse d'Or organisation, which holds the annual international cooking competition he created, greeted the announcement with “sadness” and expressed its “unwavering support” for the restaurant.
   
Bocuse's family and his kitchen team said they were “upset” by the decision, and celebrity chef Marc Veyrat, who recently sued the Michelin Guide over a lost third star, described the move as “pathetic”.
   
“Monsieur Paul”, as Bocuse was known, died aged 91 on January 20, 2018, after a long battle with Parkinson's disease.
   
Dubbed the “pope” of French cuisine, he was one of the country's most celebrated of all time, helping shake up the food world in the 1970s with the lighter fare of the Nouvelle Cuisine revolution, and helping to introduce the notion of a celebrity chef.
   
Michelin boss Gwendal Poullennec visited Bocuse's restaurant on Thursday to deliver the news, guide spokeswoman Elisabeth Boucher-Anselin told AFP.
   
Even before Bocuse's death, some critics had commented that the restaurant was no longer quite up to scratch.
   
But Michelin's decision, a year after stripping Veyrat of his third star just a year after awarding it, immediately stirred controversy.
 
'Irreparable'
 
While food critic Perico Legasse told BFM television the guide had committed an “irreparable” error in a quest for media attention, Veyrat said he had “lost faith” in a new generation of Michelin editors he accused of trying to make a name for themselves by taking down the giants of French cuisine.
   
“I am sad for the team that took up the torch at Collonges,” tweeted the three-starred chef Georges Blanc.
   
The restaurant has been modernising its look and its menu, pursuing a philosophy its management team describes as “tradition in motion”.   
 
“The chefs have reworked the dishes. They have been refining them for more than a year, evolving them while retaining their original DNA and taste,” the restaurant's manager Vincent Le Roux told a regional newspaper recently.
   
The restaurant is scheduled to reopen on January 24 after three weeks of renovations — three days before the official launch of the latest Michelin Guide.
   
Bocuse described himself as a devotee of traditional cuisine. “I love butter, cream, wine” he once said, “not peas cut into quarters”.
   
According to Michelin, restaurants are selected on four criteria: the quality of the products, the expertise of the chef, the originality of the dishes and consistency throughout the meal and across seasons.
   
But critics say the costs of ensuring such standards have made Michelin stars an untenable proposition as more diners baulk at spending massively on a meal.
   
A handful of French restaurateurs have in recent years relinquished their prized three-star status because of the stress of being judged by Michelin inspectors.
   
In 2018, the guide allowed, for the first time, a restaurant to withdraw from its listings after Sebastien Bras, the chef at Le Suquet, said he no longer wished to cook under that type of pressure.
   
The 2003 suicide of three-star chef Bernard Loiseau was linked, among other reasons, to speculation that his restaurant was about to lose its three stars.
 
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