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How to survive and thrive as an artist in Paris

Paris has been known as a haven for international artists and writers for more than a century. But anyone dreaming of emulating Joyce, Hemingway or Picasso should study this list of tips first, from artists working in Paris right now.

How to survive and thrive as an artist in Paris
Clockwise from top left: Midnight in Paris, Les Deux Magots, Sylvia Beach and James Joyce, and Shakespeare and Company. Photos: vipmagazin/Youtube, Roboppy/Wikimedia, AFP, Brian Jeffery Beggerly

Most curious minds who have read 'The Sun Also Rises', marvelled at Picasso's 'Three Musicians', or even watched 'Midnight in Paris,' will have felt the itch to live in bohemian abandon in the City of Light.

And despite all the economic doom and gloom many budding artists, musicians and writers still flock to the French capital every year to live out their creative dreams.

However, the pitfalls of the artistic lifestyle in Paris are nearly as famous as the legends surrounding it. Accommodation is fiercely expensive in the French capital and success is hard to come by.

Nevertheless there are still some very good reasons to move to Paris to be an artist, and more importantly, there are ways to make it work.

We’ve enlisted the help of four English-speaking artists, currently working in the city, to advise you how to overcome the obstacles, and help you survive and thrive as an artist in the French capital.

1. Why an artist should choose Paris in the first place.

“There is so much more appreciation here for being an artist,” says Pete Mc Grane, a musician and songwriter from Dublin, Ireland, who moved to Paris in 2010. “If you met someone on the street in Dublin and said ‘I’m a musician,’ you might get the feeling they think you should get a real job. But in Paris, people are far more enthusiastic and inquisitive about what you do. They respect art and artists more here," he adds.

Paris has several thriving communities of expat artists and writers. “That may be the best thing about being an artist here,” says David Barnes, a writer from Oxfordshire, England, who moved to Paris in 2003. Paddy Sherlock, a musician and actor from Dublin, Ireland, agrees: “Paris is an amazing place for its fusion of cultures and for meeting artists from all over the world,” he says.

2. Research all the artists' communities active in Paris – there are many

"If you're a writer, there are so many groups and workshops, and you should look into them," says Kate Noakes a poet from Bristol, England, who runs the Paris Lit Up writers' community. "There is also Poets Live and the Ivy Writers

"The 'mothership' for writers is probably Shakespeare and Company, but the American Library and Irish Cultural Centre are also great places to go to," she adds.

3. The French government might just fund your creative endeavours – find out how.

An artist or technician who gets on-off work, such as an actor or performer, may be entitled to become what's known as as “intermittent du spectacle”.  This employment status covers those who work intermittently in the arts world and allows them to receive monthly payments from the state to boost their wages. Check out this website to see how it works.

If you’re a musician with a mission to record an album or put on a festival, the ‘Fonds pour la creation musicale’ (FCM) might be able to contribute financially.

If you’re a filmmaker or actor, check out the Maison du Film Court, which can offer a variety of assistance, including financial help, for your project.

“As an actor, I’ve been in films that were helped with funding from the FCM,” says Sherlock. “With all these state-run programmes, the idea is to help turn what have always been insecure professions into something resembling secure careers.

"And France is particularly good at giving concrete help to artists.”  

4. Lose the ‘artistic temperament’ – get yourself out there.

The people you meet at gigs, exhibits, readings, and workshops, and especially the expats, will be the key to future opportunities. So be nice, says Mc Grane.

“There are so many English speakers doing really interesting stuff in the arts, theatre and music. They’ll find you gigs, festivals and opportunities.

"So be open to people and really make an effort to talk to everyone,” he says.

“Don’t be completely isolated,” Barnes adds.

Sherlock recommends finding other artists first, and then finding your public. “I started off by busking, and I would recommend it if you’re not already established. But after that, find as any open mics and jam sessions as you can, and play all of them. That way you’ll get yourself seen by other musicians and build a network,” he adds.

5. Look out for all the ways that French authorities encourage and appreciate art.

“We played a gig once in the cafeteria of a TGV train from Toulouse to Paris,” says Mc Grane. It wasn’t impromptu, or a one-off, but something that’s properly organized.

“Our booking agent at the time talked to TGV in advance, who asked to hear our music, and then agreed we’d play a 40-minute concert in the restaurant carriage of the train. They made an announcement over the intercom, loads of passengers came to the cafeteria to hear us and really enjoyed it. And TGV gave us our train tickets for free!”

6. To get around the accommodation nightmare, use your imagination.

If you don’t have a job before you arrive in Paris, or you don’t plan on getting one after you do, you will quite likely have trouble finding rented accommodation.

Landlords very often insist on seeing employment contracts and even bank statements before taking you on as a tenant.

“In that case, reach out to artists communities before you come here. Talk to any other expats you may know. Or find students who may have a spare room, and try to get a sublet,” says Noakes.

Barnes suggests being smart with your choice of work.

“I know people who get ‘lectureships’ at universities, for example, where they teach for a few hours a week, and have plenty of free time to write, but they also have paperwork to show a potential landlord," he said.

“I have one friend who even put up notices advertising himself as a ‘lecturer’, and ended up being offered accommodation, because his job made him a desirable tenant.”

Pete Mc Grane, formerly of the band Carousel, is an Irish musician and one half of the duo Without the Bird.

Kate Noakes is an English poet and short fiction writer whose most recent collection is entitled Cape Town.

Paddy Sherlock is an Irish musician and actor who plays original funk, swing and roots music with his band, the Swingin' Lovers.

David Barnes is an English writer and psychotherapist who runs an anglophone Spoken Word night and Writers' Workshop in Paris.

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IMMIGRATION

How can American citizens work in Italy?

Americans have to fight through a quagmire of bureaucracy to get the right to work in Italy. The Local spoke to Paolo Zagami, an immigration lawyer at Zagamilaw in Rome, to find out how others can get through the process as painlessly as possible.

How can American citizens work in Italy?
Obtaining a work visa for Italy is lengthy, but possible. Photo: DepositPhotos

Americans – or anyone else from outside the European Union – are unable to just pack up and land in Italy for a slice of la dolce vita.

They require a work permit or visa, rules for which have grown tighter in recent years as the Italian authorities tighten restrictions to stem unemployment.

In fact, the difficulty of obtaining a visa, coupled with an impatience to fulfil their dream, drives many Americans to arrive in Italy without one.

READ ALSO: 'What I wish I'd known': An American's advice on getting residency in Italy


Photo: DepositPhotos

Zagami says that Americans often encounter “problems, misunderstandings and excessive delays” when applying to work in Italy.

But he warns that those who ignore the paperwork are not only breaking the law, but also putting themselves in a vulnerable position should they fall ill or need police assistance.

Know your quotas

Americans can only obtain a work permit in Italy through sponsorship from an Italian company or a foreign corporation doing business in Italy.

All paperwork must be filed by the employer. This starts with keeping an eye out for the publication of the Decreto flussi  or ‘Flow Decree’, which stipulates Italy’s entry quotas from any given country for the year and is usually published between January and April.

In 2019 Italy set a quota of 30,850 work permits for non-EU nationals, 18,000 of them for seasonal work in tourism or agriculture and 12,850 for non-seasonal or self-employment (including people converting an existing residency permit into a work permit).

READ ALSO: 

The total quota has remained stable since 2016, though the number of permits actually granted to non-EU workers has plummeted over the past decade. In 2017, the most recent year for which official data is available, Italy issued 2,802 permits to workers from the US, more than any other country.

Certain jobs are exempt from the quota system, including university professors, translators, interpreters and some roles in the performing arts. Therefore, Zagami says, it is important to check if and how you might be affected.

It is then crucial for the sponsor to begin the visa application procedure as soon as possible after the publication of the quota list, because most quotas are filled within a few days. Any applications arriving after the quota is filled, or which are completed incorrectly, are rejected with no chance of appeal.

What to do before you leave the US…

The Italian employer must then lodge an application for the work permit with the Central Immigration Office (Sportello Unico). If successful, the applicant will be issued with a no-impediment (nulla osta) document. This functions as a guarantee that the sponsor will enter into a contractual working relationship with the American employee-to-be.

In some professions, employers must also apply to the provincial employment office (Ufficio Provinciale del Lavoro e della Massima Occupazione) in their city by submitting evidence that there is nobody qualified for the position offered available in the local labour market. Although rare, it is possible for the authorities to suggest the employment of an EU citizen in their place, Zagami says.

He says one of the main reasons Americans experience difficulties is that “many employers are unwilling to go through the necessary procedure, maybe because of the slow and meticulous Italian bureaucracy, or also because of the set quotas”.

FOR MEMBERS: How to become Italian: A guide to getting citizenship


Photo: DepositPhotos

For freelancers or those hoping to work independently, the process is slightly different. Workers must apply for the visa independently and receive the no-impediment document from the local police headquarters (Questura).

There are further restrictions on the number of freelancers that may enter Italy from a certain country or nationality in any given year, and freelancers must also prove they have a proper income and adequate accommodation arranged in Italy.

Only once the no-impediment document is granted may an American apply for an entry visa (visto d'ingresso per motivi di lavoro) at an Italian consular office in their home city. This must be done before the American moves to Italy – Americans already in Italy have to return to the US to apply for their entry visa.

Zagami points out that while it could cause problems if Americans decide to enter the territory without a visa, it is possible to enter the country with a more easily obtainable student visa, for example, and convert this to a working one once they have found an employer in Italy – although tourist visas cannot be converted to working ones.

This procedure again involves applying to the Central Immigration Office for authorization.

… and once you get here

Within eight working days of arriving in Italy with their temporary work permit, all Americans must apply for a residency permit (permesso di soggiorno).

They also need to apply for a tax code (codice fiscale), one of the easier hurdles of Italian bureaucracy, at their local revenue agency (Agenzia delle Entrate).

READ ALSO:

The final step is to present the signed work contract to the local employment office (Centro per l’impiego), where the application will be approved.

With the temporary permit, the tax code and the approval of the employment office, the police headquarters will finally issue the long-term work permit.

How much does it cost?

Zagami says the visa itself costs around €116, while the process can take anywhere between 30 and 120 days. 


Photo: DepositPhotos

But what if the job offer falls through during the process, or an American loses their job in Italy?

Zagami advises that in these cases “it is important to look for another job immediately, because the legislation in force allows the employees to stay only six months after the loss of the former job”.

The process may be long-winded, but it is perfectly possible for Americans to come to Italy for work – as long as you've got the time, organization, patience and the necessary paperwork. 

This is an updated version of an article first published in 2013.

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