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MY FRANCE - DORDOGNE

TOURISM

‘There is nowhere better to live than the Dordogne’

The Dordogne region of France is one of the most beautiful parts of the country, hence its popularity among expats and tourists. For this week's My France, estate agent Cate Carnduff from Ireland tells us about some of her favourite haunts.

'There is nowhere better to live than the Dordogne'
Photo Cate Carnduff/Capt Gorgeous/flickr

How did you end up living in Dordogne?

I was working in London and my now husband was in Ireland. I didn't want to go back and he didn't want to come to London so after much to-ing and fro-ing he said: 'Why don't we move to Paris'? We spent several fabulous years in the romantic city. One weekend we decided to go and visit some friends in the Dordogne and the rest, as they say, is history.

So what kept you in the Dordogne?

Our idea was to go back to Paris after the renovation of a barn we had bought, however the conversion took much longer than initially expected and at the same time our love for the Dordogne grew and is still there.  We have always said if we don't like it we will go elsewhere, but when from time to time we weigh up what we love about being here or miss about being elsewhere then Dordogne still wins hands down.

Sell the Dordogne to us.

Well, the travel links to the area are great for a start. It's very easy to get down here from Paris on a train from Gare d'Austerlitz. There's great variety here. The Dordogne is rich in culture and history. The food is great here and there's a lot of interesting people living here, who are attracted by the diverse nature of the region. When you weigh everything up, there's nowhere better to live.

What’s the very first place you always take visitors?

We live in the north of the Dordogne department, so my number one stop for visitors is Brantome, a beautiful town set on the river Drone and referred to as the 'Venice of the Perigord'. It has a wealth of Gallo-Roman and Carolingian remains and apparently the oldest bell tower in France. Its Abbey was rebuilt in the thirteenth and fifteenth centuries  But it's not just beautiful to see it also has some of my favourite eateries so remains a favourite of both my guests and I. 

Anywhere else you like to take people?

It has got to be a stop-off in St Jean de Cole where I am also lucky enough to work.  It's a Medieval village and gonged as one of France's most beautiful villages. It is particularly stunning during the second weekend of June when it hosts a Floralie and the village is bedecked in flowers. 

Now that we know where you like to show your visitors, where in the Dordogne do you keep all to yourself?

If I have a bit of time to myself, I often head of to Perigueux and into the old quarter where the once wealthy merchant houses have now been converted into boutique shops and restaurants. I love ambling round the alleyways and trying desperately not to come home 'bankrupt' with bags full of beautiful garments I will never wear. Life in the Dordogne tends to be very informal. It's for calm creatures like me who love the history and natural beauty and where wellington boots reign over stilettos. 

Where do you go when you get hungry?

Hmm, that  depends who's paying! If my husband is feeling romantic he knows the Moulin du Roc in Champagnac de Belair remains one of my all-time favourite restaurants. The riverside setting and beautiful grounds are wonderful on a summer evening when you can eat in the gardens, but equally in winter, the interconnecting dining rooms and original character features of this converted mill permit a cosy and intimate feel. And the food is inspired and delicious.

Equally, if we just want something simple but good, we may pop into the Fiddlers Rest which offers a varied pub grub menu. From our much-loved classic 'fish n chips' to Sunday lunch or Thai Chilli. This isn't as awful as it may sound and the French themselves appreciate that these British classics are in fact very good. 

Where is a good place to take kids?

Corgnac sur l'isle is a great place. There is a sand beach, where children can go paddling and there is also a converted old train track where you can travel up and down on old rail trolleys. There's also a lake nearby where children can go canoeing and do other activities.

What advice would you give to someone thinking of moving to the Dordogne?

Stop thinking about it and do it. If they are looking to buy a house from abroad and they have the cash then one thing they should think about is booking ahead a fixed exchange rate. The rates for the euro are fluctuating so much but if you can put €30,000 down on a house then you can forward book the exchange rate to try to get a good deal.

Cate Carnduff works for Dordogne-based estate agents Herman de Graaf.

If you would like to share some of the highlights of where you live as part of our My France series please email [email protected]

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TRAVEL NEWS

German train strike wave to end following new labour agreement

Germany's Deutsche Bahn rail operator and the GDL train drivers' union have reached a deal in a wage dispute that has caused months of crippling strikes in the country, the union said.

German train strike wave to end following new labour agreement

“The German Train Drivers’ Union (GDL) and Deutsche Bahn have reached a wage agreement,” GDL said in a statement.

Further details will be announced in a press conference on Tuesday, the union said. A spokesman for Deutsche Bahn also confirmed that an agreement had been reached.

Train drivers have walked out six times since November, causing disruption for huge numbers of passengers.

The strikes have often lasted for several days and have also caused disruption to freight traffic, with the most recent walkout in mid-March.

In late January, rail traffic was paralysed for five days on the national network in one of the longest strikes in Deutsche Bahn’s history.

READ ALSO: Why are German train drivers launching more strike action?

Europe’s largest economy has faced industrial action for months as workers and management across multiple sectors wrestle over terms amid high inflation and weak business activity.

The strikes have exacerbated an already gloomy economic picture, with the German economy shrinking 0.3 percent across the whole of last year.

What we know about the new offer so far

Through the new agreement, there will be optional reduction of a work week to 36 hours at the start of 2027, 35.5 hours from 2028 and then 35 hours from 2029. For the last three stages, employees must notify their employer themselves if they wish to take advantage of the reduction steps.

However, they can also opt to work the same or more hours – up to 40 hours per week are possible in under the new “optional model”.

“One thing is clear: if you work more, you get more money,” said Deutsche Bahn spokesperson Martin Seiler. Accordingly, employees will receive 2.7 percent more pay for each additional or unchanged working hour.

According to Deutsche Bahn, other parts of the agreement included a pay increase of 420 per month in two stages, a tax and duty-free inflation adjustment bonus of 2,850 and a term of 26 months.

Growing pressure

Last year’s walkouts cost Deutsche Bahn some 200 million, according to estimates by the operator, which overall recorded a net loss for 2023 of 2.35 billion.

Germany has historically been among the countries in Europe where workers went on strike the least.

But since the end of 2022, the country has seen growing labour unrest, while real wages have fallen by four percent since the start of the war in Ukraine.

German airline Lufthansa is also locked in wage disputes with ground staff and cabin crew.

Several strikes have severely disrupted the group’s business in recent weeks and will weigh on first-quarter results, according to the group’s management.

Airport security staff have also staged several walkouts since January.

Some politicians have called for Germany to put in place rules to restrict critical infrastructure like rail transport from industrial action.

But Chancellor Olaf Scholz has rejected the calls, arguing that “the right to strike is written in the constitution… and that is a democratic right for which unions and workers have fought”.

The strikes have piled growing pressure on the coalition government between Scholz’s Social Democrats, the Greens and the pro-business FDP, which has scored dismally in recent opinion polls.

The far-right AfD has been enjoying a boost in popularity amid the unrest with elections in three key former East German states due to take place later this year.

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