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CLIMBING

Alpine club warns of climbing gear recalls

Ten manufacturers have recalled from sale climbing kits for via ferrata mountain routes due to safety problems, says the Alpine Club of Switzerland, which issued a warning to climbers on Tuesday to check their gear.

Alpine club warns of climbing gear recalls
Via ferrata classified as "ideal for beginners" on the Rigidalstock mountain above Engelberg in the Swiss Alps. Photo: Switzerland Tourism

“Many climbing kits have considerable deficiencies and may break in a fall,” the club said in a German-language statement on its wesbite.

The kits, some of which are made by Swiss companies such as Mammut,  enable climbers and hikers to follow steep alpine routes by using slings to attach themselves to steel cables fixed to rock faces.

The kits are designed to offer climbers “protection” in case of a fall.

But certain models with rope brakes or “rope friction based shock absorbers” have been recalled to eliminate any risks.

The recalls follow testing and a list of potentially faulty equipment compiled by the German Alpine Club in the wake of a fatal climbing accident in the Tyrolian Alps in Austria last August.

“it was found that climbing sets with friction brakes from different manufacturers have some serious shortcomings and may not withstand a fall,” the Alpine Club of Switzerland said.

“Serious injury or death can result.”

Other via ferrata kits were recalled last fall after testing also found that “carabiner arms made from elasticated webbings were too weak”, according to Swiss manufacturer Mammut.

The German and Swiss alpine clubs have increased their requirements for via ferrata kits in a bid to improve safety.

Experts say that the maximum service life for via ferrata equipment is up to seven years when used only one or two times a year.

The lifespan drops to three years if the equipment is used several times a month, and to just six months if it is used daily.

Mammut provides a good explanation of how via ferrata kits or sets work on its website.

Via ferrata was popularized by Austrians in the Italian Dolomites during the First World War as a way of moving troops around.

In Switzerland, via ferrata or Klettersteig have only emerged in the past 20 years but the number of listed routes has increased to more than 150, including those along gorges and on high Alpine peaks. 

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PAKISTAN

Search for missing Italian and British climbers suspended

Bad weather forced rescuers to call off a search on Friday for two climbers from Britain and Italy who went missing in northern Pakistan on a peak known as "Killer Mountain".

Search for missing Italian and British climbers suspended
Daniele Nardi (L) and Tom Ballard (R), the climbing partners who haven't been heard from since Sunday. Photo: Daniele Nardi/Facebook

Climbers Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard were last heard from on Sunday as they climbed the Nanga Parbat, which at 8,125 metres is the world's ninth-highest peak.

They were attempting a route that has never before been successfully completed. 

Heavy snowfall on Friday kept a helicopter from taking off and a ground team confined to base camp in the western Himalayas.

“Snowfall has reduced the visibility and we expect snowfall for the coming three to four days, which makes it difficult for us to climb up and do a ground search,” Pakistani mountaineer Muhammad Ali Sadpara told AFP by telephone from Nanga Parbat base camp.

He said the the mountaineers had taken the notorious Mummery route, named after a mountaineer who died while attempting it in 1895. The route has never been attempted since then, he said.

“The risk of avalanche makes it [rescue] almost impossible in this weather,” he added.  

Sadpara, along with other four local mountaineers, were airlifted to the base camp for a ground search. A top army aviation official said a Pakistani military helicopter that was set to search from the air was unable to take off due to the snow. 

“The weather prediction for the coming few days is not good, and unfortunately it will make it very difficult for us to fly,” he told AFP.

Four Russian mountaineers currently at the base camp for K2, the world's second highest mountain and also in northern Pakistan, had volunteered to join the search. But a spokesperson for the Russians said the Nanga Parbat climbers' support team had opted instead to carry out the search using drones.  

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Nardi's team said on Facebook that the climbers' tent had been “spotted from a helicopter, buried under snow. Traces of avalanches can be seen”. But Karim Shah, a Pakistani mountaineer and friend of Nardi who is in contact with the team at the base camp and the search team, said that tent was spotted on a different route than the one taken by the missing climbers.

Ballard is the son of British mountaineer Alison Hargreaves, the first woman to conquer Mount Everest solo and without bottled oxygen. She died descending K2 in 1995.

The search was delayed because rescue teams were forced to wait for permission to send up a helicopter after Pakistan closed its airspace on Wednesday in response to escalating tensions with India. 

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