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HYGIENE

Swede success as ‘meat glue’ plans come unstuck

The European Parliament's environment committee has backed a proposal drafted by Swedish MEP Åsa Westlund calling for an EU-wide ban on the controversial 'meat glue' product thrombin.

Swede success as 'meat glue' plans come unstuck

EU countries voted in February to approve the use of the enzyme, but the issue will now be decided in parliament after Westlund’s resolution was approved by 31 votes in favour and 21 against.

“I am pleasantly surprised. There is now a good prospect that this will be upheld by the European Parliament as well. Consumers would then avoid being fooled,” Westlund said.

Sweden voted in favour of approving the use of thrombin in early February, a decision which drew criticism from consumer groups and politicians alike who fear that consumers stand to be misled.

“We do not want this at all – it is meat make-up,” Jan Bertoft at the Swedish Consumer’s Association (Sveriges Konsumenter) said at the time.

Thrombin is a coagulation protein which together with the fibrous protein fibrin can be used to develop a “meat glue” enzyme that can be used for sticking together different pieces of meat.

Westlund’s resolution argues that the use of thrombin heightens the risk of bacterial growth.

Despite clear labelling of meat products, there remains a concern that consumers will be fooled as it is not clear from the appearance of the product whether it is constructed from different pieces of meat or not.

“To use thrombin in meat is a way of misleading consumers, to present something as better than it actually is,” Westlund said after the February decision.

Åsa Westlund has been involved in the process of developing new EU legislation covering food additives, which will come into force in the beginning of next year, and believes that thrombin would not have been approved had these new rules already been adopted.

But Gunilla Henrysdotter at the Swedish National Food Administration (Livsmedelsverket) has argued that it is not certain the new legislation would have rendered thrombin illegal.

The decision to approve thrombin was taken by a Standing Committee on the Food Chain and Animal Health (SCFCAH) on February 9th. One country voted against and one abstained. All the other countries, including Sweden, voted in favour.

According to the committee decision, products containing thrombin should be clearly marked with the text “composite meat product.”

Thrombin can be made from blood taken from either cows or pigs, and this information must also be clearly shown.

Products containing thrombin would not however be approved for use in commercial kitchens, a ban that Åsa Westlund argues the current legislation made easy to circumvent.

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FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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