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Berlin’s ‘Material’ witness

Daniel Miller takes a three-hour history lesson with Thomas Heise's new documentary “Material” about the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Berlin's 'Material' witness
Photo: DPA

Strangely few films have been made about the demise of East Germany. And most of them have tended to be about something else other than the actual end of the communist country.

There were the eastern nostalgia (Ostalgie) pictures – “Goodbye, Lenin” most famously – which showed how things looked in retrospect through rose-tinted spectacles. And there was the Oscar-winning “The Lives of Others,” which used a East German setting to spin-out a morality play.

But Thomas Heise’s “Material” is a different proposition. A veteran documentary filmmaker born in East Berlin, his new project premiering at this year’s Berlinale presents archive footage originally shot shortly before and after the fall of the wall. Watching it gives the sense of history being made.

The first remarkable thing about “Material” is the sheer diversity of the footage presented. The introductory scene shows two children playing amongst the scrap of a junkyard. After the credits, Heise shows shots of the West Berlin district of Kreuzberg, which is known for its repeated leftist riots.

A man desperately yells over a police radio: “I am from Kreuzberg. I want to talk. I just want to talk.” Masked youths on the roof hurl projectiles as an armoured water-cannon vehicle lumbers into the shot.

Heise then cuts to scenes from a Berliner Ensemble theatre rehearsal in 1988. The play is Heiner Müller’s famous work Germania – Death in Berlin. After that, there is a long section of footage from the spontaneous rallies held across East Germany, as the DDR regime crumbled.

What holds all these scenes together is a question about the role of authority in a group. In the rehearsal scenes, Heise trains his eye on how a director relates to his cast and crew. The footage of the DDR rallies, meanwhile, shows authority put into play – new speakers step up to the microphone, one after another, to be cheered or booed by the crowd.

Heise provides almost no context for the scenes he depicts. Spontaneous meeting follows spontaneous meeting, but the wider context of what is happening is only indicated by what people say in them. This is history seen from the ground, rather than from the perspective of some expert narrator, who has all the facts already hand. Heise asks his viewers the same question which they ask themselves everyday: “What is going on here?”

But Heise is also unusually interested and respectful towards people. This is especially true of the footage he shoots in a prison. Here, both prisoners and guards are presented as intelligent, articulate people, who both feel equally marginalized by the world outside the gates.

The most remarkable footage is the scenes of the riot shot after the Wall fell. The setting is some kind of youth centre, where a group of students has tried to make common ground with a group of skinheads.

Something goes wrong, and the skinheads begin pulling on masks, preparing for battle, as meanwhile the centre comes under police attack. One of the skinheads says to the cowering students: “Some of you students are even stupider than I am.”

“Material” will probably not be a blockbuster. At almost three hours long, and without a strong central narrative, it does not seem very likely to make its way into multiplexes. But I can’t recall seeing a smarter film for some time.

As Germany prepares to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, “Material” makes a key contribution to understanding how history really unfolds. And in a world which might soon start undergoing new political upheavals, the film offers more than simply a history lesson.

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Eight amazing German museums to explore this spring

With thousands of years of history in Germany to explore, you’re never going to run out of museums to scratch the itch to learn about and fully experience the world of the past.

Eight amazing German museums to explore this spring

Here are eight of our favourite museums across Germany’s 16 states for you to discover for yourself. 

Arche Nebra

Nebra, Saxony-Anhalt

One day, around 1600 BCE, local Bronze Age peoples buried one of their most precious objects – the Nebra Sky Disk, a copper, gold, and bronze disk that acted as a calendar to help them plant crops. This was a matter of life and death at the time. 

Over three thousand years later, in 1999, it was uncovered by black market treasure hunters, becoming Germany’s most significant archaeological find. 

While the Sky Disk itself is kept in the (really very good)  State Museum of Pre- and Early History in nearby Halle, the site of the discovery is marked by the Arche Nebra, a museum explaining prehistoric astronomy and the cultural practices of the people who made it. 

Kids will love the planetarium, explaining how the disk was used. 

Atomkeller Museum

Halgerloch, Baden-Württemberg

From the distant to the very recent past – in this case, the Nazi atomic weapons programme. Even as defeat loomed, Nazi scientists such as Werner Heisenberg were trying to develop a nuclear bomb. 

While this mainly took place in Berlin, an old beer cellar under the town of Halgerloch, south of Stuttgart, was commandeered as the site of a prototype fission reactor. 

A squad of American soldiers captured and dismantled the reactor as the war ended. Still, the site was later turned into a museum documenting German efforts to create a working reactor – one that they could use to develop a bomb.

It’s important to note that you don’t need to be a physicist to understand what they were trying to do here, as the explanatory materials describe the scientist’s efforts in a manner that is easy to understand. 

German National Museum

Nuremberg, Bavaria

Remember that scene at the end of ‘Raiders of the Lost Ark’, where an unnamed government official wheels the Ark of the Covenant into an anonymous government warehouse? This could possibly be the German equivalent – albeit far better presented. 

The German National Museum was created in 1852 as a repository for the cultural history of the German nation – even before the country’s founding. In the intervening 170 years, it’s grown to swallow an entire city block of Nuremberg, covering 60,000 years of history and hundreds of thousands of objects. 

If it relates to the history of Germany since prehistoric times, you’re likely to find it here.

Highlights include several original paintings and etchings by Albrecht Dürer, the mysterious Bronze Age ‘Gold Hats’, one of Europe’s most significant collections of costuming and musical instruments, and a vast display of weapons, armour and firearms. 

European Hansemuseum

Lübeck, Schleswig-Holstein

In the late Middle Ages, the political and economic centre of the world was focused on the North Sea and the Baltic German coasts. 

This was the domain of the Hanseatic League, one of the most powerful trading alliances in human history. Centuries before the Dutch and British East India Companies, they made in-roads to far-flung corners.

The European Hansemuseum in the former Hanseatic city of Lübeck tells the story of the league’s rise and eventual fall, its day-to-day operations, and its enduring legacy.

This museum is fascinating for adults and kids. It uses original artefacts and high-tech interactive elements to tell tales of maritime adventure. Younger visitors will also be enchanted by the museum’s augmented reality phone app that asks them to help solve mysteries. 

Fugger & Welser Adventure Museum

Augsburg, Germany

The Hanseatic League was not the only economic power in the late Middle Ages. The Fugger and Welser families of Augsburg may have been the richest in the world until the 20th century.

From humble beginnings, both families grew to become incredibly powerful moneylenders, funding many of the wars of the 16th century and the conquest of the New World.

The Fugger & Welser Adventure Museum not only explains the rise of both patrician families but also the practices that led to their inconceivable wealth—including, sadly, the start of the Transatlantic slave trade. 

The museum also documents the short-lived Welser colony in Venezuela, which, if it had survived, could have resulted in a very different world history.

This museum has many high tech displays, making it a very exciting experience for moguls of any age.

Teutoburg Forest Museum

Kalkriese, Lower Saxony

Every German child learns this story at some point: One day at the end of summer 9 AD, three legions of the Roman army marched into the Teutoburg forest… and never came out. 

Soldiers sent after the vanished legions discovered that they had been slaughtered to a man.

Arminius, a German who had been raised as a Roman commander, had betrayed the three legions to local Germanic tribes, who ambushed them while marching through the forest. 

Today, the probable site of the battle – we can’t entirely be sure – is marked by a museum called the Varusschlacht Museum (Literally ‘Varus Battle Museum’, named after the loyal Roman commander). 

The highlights here are the finds – made all the more eerie by the knowledge that they were looted and discarded from the legionaries in the hours following the ambush. 

German Romanticism Museum

Frankfurt, Hesse

The Romantic era of art, music and literature is one of Germany’s greatest cultural gifts to the world, encompassing the work of poets such as Goethe and Schiller, composers like Beethoven and artists in the vein of Caspar David Friedrich.

Established in 2021 next to the house where Johann Wolfgang von Goethe was born, the German Romanticism Museum is the world’s largest collection of objects related to the Romantic movement. 

In addition to artefacts from some of the greatest names in German romanticism, in 2024, you’ll find a major exhibition exploring Goethe’s controversial 1774 novel, ‘The Sorrows of Young Werther’, and another on the forest as depicted as dark and dramatic in the art of the period. 

Gutenberg Castle

Haßmersheim, Baden-Württemberg

Sometimes being a smaller castle is a good thing. The relatively small size and location of Guttenburg Castle, above the River Neckar near Heilbronn, protected it from war and damage over eight hundred years – it’s now the best preserved Staufer-era castle in the country.

While the castle is still occupied by the Barons of Gemmingen-Guttenberg, the castle now also contains a museum, that uses the remarkably well-preserved castle interiors to explore centuries of its history – and the individuals that passed through it.

After you’ve explored the museum—and the current exhibition that uses Lego to document life in the Middle Ages —it’s also possible to eat at the castle’s tavern and stay overnight!

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