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LGBTQ

‘We’ve considered going back to the US’: What life in Italy is like for same-sex couples

Pride month is underway, but Italy's government has been in the news for restricting the rights of same-sex couples. We asked international LGBTQ+ couples what it’s like living in Italy today and whether they want to stay.

‘We’ve considered going back to the US’: What life in Italy is like for same-sex couples
Participants hold a giant rainbow flag as they take part in the Pride March in Milan. Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP.

Whether or not you can start a family in your country of residence is not a dilemma many people expect to find themselves in. But for some same-sex couples in Italy, that’s precisely their concern.

“When I first moved to Italy in 2015 it was like going back in time. It was an odd experience,” says Tyler Sabin, a US national who moved to Italy from Colorado and has called the country home ever since. 

READ MORE: Italy ‘one of the worst countries in Europe’ for gay and trans rights

Tyler, who is in a civil partnership with an Italian, says they were among the first to celebrate a civil union in the town of Vicenza.

“I was here for the milestone of civil unions and remember being part of the protests,” he tells The Local.

“Now, the government refuses to accept anything beyond their standards.”

Civil unions became legal in Italy in 2016, but the law on parental rights for same-sex couples is unclear – and recent moves by the Italian government have made things harder.

The interior ministry last year issued a directive instructing town councils around the country to only put biological parents’ names on birth certificates, and ordered the mayor of Milan to stop legally recognising both parents in same-sex families.

Some same-sex couples say they are now considering leaving the country in order for them both to be recognised as the parents of their child. 

Overall, Italy is lagging behind other European countries for gay and trans rights, and was ranked one of the worst on the continent in the latest report by the International Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans and Intersex Association’s Europe chapter, ILGA-Europe. 

“Many gay couples that I know feel like they are just stuck now. There’s very little chance of actually making a family,” Tyler says, adding that even getting his civil union was tough.

“We had to choose Vicenza over our own city, Padua, because the mayor did everything he could to make the ceremony bad. They only offered Wednesday mornings in the divorce room of the city hall when we checked.”

When he first landed in Italy, he lived in Trieste where he says a lot of hate crimes were happening, making it harder for him to be open about his identity. But Tyler is aware he has it marginally easier than some Italians.

“Unfortunately I have several friends who have had worse experiences,” he says. “The most common being friends coming from southern Italy whose family refused to accept their identity and kicked them out.”

Tyler has said his in-laws, his coworkers, and his questura have all been welcoming and accommodating. However, he feels that Italy as a whole could do a lot better.

“I’ve always dreamed of having a family,” he says. “The Italian government has done everything possible to prevent same-sex couples from having any chance of having children.”

“We’ve considered going back to the US just to start a family.”

Further down the east side of the country, in Gubbio, Umbria, are German nationals Kai Klose and Jochen König who have been together for 23 years and married for six. 

Klose was a former minister in the state of Hessen in Germany and worked directly on improving LGBTQIA+ rights. He founded the Frankfurt Pride.  

The couple moved to Italy earlier on this year after they purchased Bellaugello, which they run as a country house resort for same-sex couples. The house was founded in 2010 and is well-known within the local community.

A view of Bellaugello guesthouse. Photo by Kai Klose and Jochen König.

“We feel really welcome in Gubbio and didn’t expect this level of comfort from a small place,” Jorgen says from his back garden at Bellaugello.

The only time the two have felt uncomfortable was on a trip to South Tyrol a few years ago, he says, where people were watching them having dinner. 

“For the rest, we are so happy,” says Kai. “We have just participated in Umbria Pride and there were young crowds, who were very loud and fighting for their rights. It was beautiful to support the young.”

Both Kai and Jochen, like Tyler, recognise how hard it must be for Italian nationals in same-sex relationships.

“I think it is different for us. I recognise that because we are foreign we are treated differently, but I imagine if you grew up here it would be so hard to grow up and so difficult,” Kai says. 

Barbara Wickstrand, who moved from the US to Abruzzo last year with her Italian-American wife, says she feels she has had to keep public displays of affection under wraps to be respectful of the country.

Though she has not been made to feel unwelcome, she points out that “we have a lot less rights here than we do at home.”

“We couldn’t get married here and we cannot adopt here, which is ridiculous,” she says. “I hope it changes.”

“However, everyone treats you the same day to day.”

She says she feels comfortable saying she is gay in Italy compared to some of the other countries she has travelled to.

“I did my research though, and I think anyone else in the same situation should do so too before moving,” she advises. “Facebook groups are a huge help in getting to know what a community is like.”

Tyler adds: “Not everywhere is friendly towards LGBTQIA+ people. Do some research and see if there are some communities you can join. I was lucky enough that I found myself in a city that has a large community.”

Member comments

  1. As someone living in a very small town (comune size = 4000) my experiences as living as a same sex couple have been almost universally positive. It would have been nice to have had a perspective from living in a small community in this article.

    1. Hi, we’re glad to hear your experience has been mostly positive, and it is great to hear from someone living in such a small community. If you’d like to share more about your experience please drop us an email: [email protected]

      Thanks for reading!

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LGBTQ

Italy ‘one of the worst countries in Europe’ for gay and trans rights

Italy continues to perform poorly compared to the rest of Europe when it comes to LGBTQ+ protections, a leading rights organisation has warned.

Italy 'one of the worst countries in Europe' for gay and trans rights

Pride month is getting underway in Italy, with events and parades planned in towns and cities across the country to mark the occasion.

But celebrations don’t necessarily provide a good measure of how well a country is doing when it comes to LGBTQ+ protections – and major rights groups say Italy is lagging far behind neighbouring countries.

Italy is in fact one of the worst countries in Europe for gay and trans rights, according to the International Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans and Intersex Association’s Europe chapter, ILGA-Europe.

ILGA-Europe’s Rainbow Map, which ranks 49 European countries based on their LGBTI equality laws and policies, placed Italy at 35 on the list for 2024.

Italy scored 25.4 percent for its protections for and rights granted to lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender people, compared to an EU average of 50.6 percent.

Compared to other EU states, only Latvia (37), Bulgaria (38), Romania (39), and Poland (41) rank lower.

Nearby Malta, with its strong hate speech and gender recognition protections, came first, while Spain ranks in fourth place.

Source:ILGA-Europe Rainbow Map

ILGA-Europe’s 2024 review highlights that hate speech against LGBTI people in Italy is “openly perpetuated” by the government of far-right Prime Minister Georgia Meloni, who has pledged to fight what she calls the “LGBT lobby”.

Since coming to office in October 2022, the prime minister has elevated lawmakers who think along similar lines.

In early 2023, MP Federico Mollicone of Meloni’s post-fascist Brothers of Italy party described same-sex parenthood as “not normal” and surrogacy as “worse than paedophilia”.

Senate speaker Ignazio La Russa, who co-founded Brothers of Italy with Meloni, has said he would be “sorry” to have a gay son.

Despite this, Italy did make some strides towards equal rights in 2023.

A national collective labour agreement for the education, university and research sector that came into force in July requires employers to let trans staff use gender-neutral bathrooms or bathrooms matching their gender identity.

And in May of last year the Senate voted in favour of a motion to combat criminalisation based on sexual orientation and gender identity (SOGI) around the world.

But these were overshadowed by significant setbacks in the area of family rights, after the interior ministry issued a directive instructing town councils around the country to only put biological parents’ names on birth certificates, and ordered the mayor of Milan to stop legally recognising both parents in same-sex families.

READ ALSO: Milan stops recognising children born to same-sex couples

This was followed by an order from Padua’s Prosecutor’s Office that the city’s registry offices cancel 33 birth certificates featuring the names of two same-sex parents, and the lower house’s approval in July of a bill that would make surrogacy a “universal” crime including for Italians who seek out the service abroad.

To improve its ranking, Italy should introduce marriage equality and make co-parenting rights of same-sex couples automatic, ILGA-Europe recommends.

The organisation also endorses banning medically unnecessary surgery on intersex minors and “depathologising trans identities”.

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