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LA BELLE VIE

La Belle Vie: Getting into ‘van life’ in France and the truth about August holidays

From the hidden references in the Paris Olympics opening ceremony and renting a campervan and exploring the countryside to whether or not France really shuts down in August, this week's La Belle Vie newsletter offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like a French person.

La Belle Vie: Getting into 'van life' in France and the truth about August holidays
A couple stands near their camper van in France. (Photo by JEAN-PIERRE CLATOT / AFP)

La Belle Vie is our regular look at the real culture of France – from language to cuisine, manners to films. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to your newsletter preferences in “My account”.

Despite worries that it might be too bold to host an opening ceremony directly along the river Seine, France succeeded and wowed the world with an event that made Olympic history.

I sat in the crowd (under the rain) watching the ceremony from a fan zone at the Chateau de Vincennes. Even though I was not in the stands along the river, it was still emotional to be part of the crowd.

At one point, we looked up and realised we could make out part of the red heart that the Patrouille de France drew in the sky. There were also several audible gasps and clapping when the French pop star Aya Nakamura appeared.

I thoroughly enjoyed the opening ceremony, from the costumes to the dancing and the many hints at French history and culture, though some references were a bit more obscure than others.

How many of the French references did you get in the Olympics opening ceremony?

With all the effort that has gone into cleaning up the Seine – which hopefully will be open for the public to swim in 2025 – I’ve been thinking of France’s other rivers. 

Last autumn, I visited Basel, Switzerland and was amazed by the number of people just floating along the river with their colourful dry bags. Unfortunately, most of France’s major rivers are not safe or clean enough to allow for river-commuting.

Can you swim in France’s major rivers?

Technically, there is no national ban on swimming in rivers or lakes, but local authorities do set up their own restrictions based on safety risks associated with the water or health concerns due to pollution. 

But if you are curious about a body of water nearby, you can actually go directly onto an interactive map created by French health authorities to check the cleanliness of the water. 

MAP: How to check the quality of the bathing water in France’s seas and lakes

This might come in handy if you ever decide to go on a road trip in France, or perhaps if you want to rent a campervan. The Local’s Ben McPartland has joined the ‘van life’ craze, having done it three times with young kids in tow. 

He has put together some of the lessons he has learned along the way, plus the important bits about where to actually drive the campervan in France.

Essential tips for your campervan holiday in France

On the subject of holidays, I’ve noticed that as the month of August rolls around, some variation of the same joke comes up on American-run social media accounts.

It basically goes: “I sent an email to my French colleague, but he said he’s out of the office the entire month of August!” It might be followed by a photo of a beautiful European holiday location.

It is true that large cities such as Paris slow down quite a bit in August, but I don’t know if it’s fair to say the entire country shuts down for four weeks.

Factcheck: Do French people really take off the entire month of August?

If all French people were off on holiday during August, then there would be no concept of the two summer holiday tribes – the Juilletistes and the Aoûtiens.

This decades-old rivalry centres on holiday timing preferences, and it culminates in a very busy weekend for traffic as July ends and August begins.

Juilletistes vs Aoûtiens: Do France’s two summer holiday tribes still exist?

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LA BELLE VIE

La Belle Vie: French greetings and where to escape crowds in France

From the history behind the Olympics mascot to the French greetings foreigners mess up and a new museum celebrating French presidents, this week's La Belle Vie newsletter offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like a French person.

La Belle Vie: French greetings and where to escape crowds in France

La Belle Vie is our regular look at the real culture of France – from language to cuisine, manners to films. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to your newsletter preferences in “My account”.

The Paris 2024 Olympic Games are upon us, and the opening ceremony is promising to be a historic event, the first to be held outside a stadium. 

As Olympics fever mounts, the little red Olympics mascots are everywhere – on signs, posters, the official apps and in person at Games venues. They might look like hats, but in reality, they are meant to represent ‘phryges’ – the traditional headgear of a French revolutionary known in French, known in English as a Phrygian cap.

Why France chose red hats as the Paris Olympics mascots (and are they really hats?)

France is a big fan of its own history, so I was not surprised when they picked a historical symbol to be the Olympic mascot. 

President Emmanuel Macron also recently inaugurated a new museum, one that celebrates the history of the president’s residence, the Elysée palace.

You’ll be able to learn about the current and former occupants, check out some of the original furniture that decorated the Elysée, as well as tableware from state dinners and diplomatic gifts received by French presidents over the years.

Paris opens new museum of French presidents

While Paris is bound to be crowded this summer, there are plenty of parts of France to escape to that are rather empty. 

You could, for example, take a trip to the Lozère département in southern France, which has a population density of just 15 people per square kilometre. Though, if you were hoping to be alone, be aware that you might run into some cows and sheep.

REVEALED: Where are the most remote parts of France?

There are some towns in France that are entirely vacant, like the village of Oradour-sur-Glane near Limoges, which has been left intentionally empty as a memorial to the massacre there during World War II. 

There are also six towns near north-east France which were all destroyed during the devastating World War I Meuse-Argonne Offensive, and were never rebuilt due to the significant number of corpses and munitions still present in the ground.

Did you know? There are six towns in France that have mayors, but no residents

When visiting a (populated) French town, there are some steps to be polite. As many are aware, greetings are crucial to French politesse.

But there are some greetings and farewells that you may have learned in French class, but they do not really work in day-to-day conversation. If you walk out of a café and say adieu to your French friends, they might be a little surprised, thinking that you are announcing your permanent departure from France.

The French greetings and farewells that foreigners commonly get wrong

There are some other sayings that are better left in the classroom. One example would be ordering food – you may have learned to say something like je voudrais une baguette/une glace/ un billet simple s’il vous plaît (I would like a baguette/ an ice cream/ a single ticket please).

But while teaching a few basic tourist phrases is a good place to start, in reality je voudrais (the conditional tense of the verb vouloir – to want) is rarely used by French people in the boulangerie, café or train station as it’s very formal.

6 things I wish my French teachers had told me

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