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FRENCH HISTORY

As France woos India, two countries reassess their colonial history

Seventy years after France quit once hard-fought for territories seized from India, the dwindling influence of Paris on the bustling streets of Puducherry (formerly known as Pondicherry) is still reflected in language, architecture and cuisine.

As France woos India, two countries reassess their colonial history
Workers build a replica of the Eiffel Tower at a park in Puducherry, a former French colony in India. Photo by Arun SANKAR / AFP

It is more than 8,000 kilometres from Paris to Puducherry, but some women dressed in colourful saris still chat in French, policemen wear the peaked kepi hats of the gendarme, and road signs mimic the famous blue and white enamel lettering of Paris.

As President Emmanuel Macron heads to New Delhi to celebrate Republic Day on Friday – marking the day independent India’s constitution came into force – Francophiles in Puducherry say the impact of France’s colonial rule was better than British brutality elsewhere in the country.

“Indians of Puducherry were considered as French nationals – culturally and legally,” said 96-year-old David Annoussamy, a former judge who served in the French court in the port city, using its colonial-era name.

“Nationality wasn’t about colour, it’s about knowing France,” the author told AFP, wearing a traditional Tamil wrap around his waist and speaking from his sprawling home with a tree-lined central courtyard.

“The main thing was to know French”.

Today, New Delhi and Paris celebrate growing ties, with France seeking to boost economic deals including already valuable military contracts with India, the world’s fifth-biggest economy and most populous nation.

Prime Minister Narendra Modi was guest of honour at France’s annual Bastille Day celebrations last July, and Macron is expected to be likewise feted this week in India.

The territory on India’s southeastern coast was taken by France in 1674 when the French East India Company set up a trading centre to exploit its rich spices and goods.

France only left in 1954 – seven years after India’s independence from Britain – and it took until 1962 for Paris to formally cede full sovereignty.

The former French trading post has since changed its name to Puducherry, an administrative territory also incorporating other French ex-colonial enclaves including Karaikal, Mahe and Yanam.

Together, 1.25 million people reside in the Puducherry territory, according to the last census in 2011, and most speak the Tamil language.

Just 5,000 French nationals live in Puducherry city today, the majority having Indian forebears who took citizenship from France.

Annoussamy took French nationality at the time of the handover, something he is proud of.

“Someone born in Paris or someone born in Pondicherry both had the same rights,” he said, speaking in fluent French. He counts Provencal-style bouillabaisse fish soup as his favourite dish.

“It’s a country we’ve adopted, and it’s become our country,” said Franco-Indian fashion designer Vassanty Manet, showing a black and white photo of her father when he served in the French army.

“We’re a population that looks Indian but has a French culture, and that’s what’s so special”.

Manet said she grew up with stories about France that “fed our imagination”, adding her uncle also fought for France during World War II in Algeria.

“We’ve never had any resentment towards France,” she said.

Unlike elsewhere in India, where there have often been wholesale name changes of streets to strip away Britain’s legacy and statues of London’s imperial leaders torn down, echoes of France remain.

A white marble statue of France’s patron saint Joan of Arc – who battled the English in the 15th century, just as the French fought British forces for control of Puducherry in the 19th century – stands tall.

The old French quarter – La Ville Blanche (White Town) – is a favourite with tourists for its colonial architecture with centuries-old mansions.

Elegant streets are adorned with bougainvillea-laden bungalows, with the aroma of freshly baked baguettes from cafes filling the air.

“They want to try French croissants, baguettes, pain au chocolat, lemon tarts and chocolate tarts,” said, Saloua Sahl, 44, who was drawn from France to set up a bakery.

And, in another sign of French ties, Puducherry is preparing to unveil a 13-metre high replica Eiffel Tower, said Chantal Samuel-David, an elected representative of the French community for southern India.

“The idea is to have a symbol of Franco-Indian friendship, a symbol that everyone here knows, that everyone in the world recognises,” she said.

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FRENCH HISTORY

US centenarian WWII vet to marry in Normandy 80 years after Allied landing

Americans Harold Terens and Jeanne Swerlin promise their courtship is "better than Romeo and Juliet": He is 100, she's 96, and they marry next month in France, where the groom-to-be served during World War II.

US centenarian WWII vet to marry in Normandy 80 years after Allied landing

US Air Force veteran Terens will be honoured on June 6th at a commemoration of the 80th anniversary of the D-Day landings in Normandy, the historic Allied operation that changed the course of the war.

Two days later Harold and Jeanne will exchange vows in Carentan-les-Marais, close to the beaches where thousands of soldiers waded ashore — and many died — that day in 1944. The town’s mayor will preside over the ceremony.

“It’s a love story like you’ve never heard before,” Terens assures AFP.

During an interview at Swerlin’s home in Boca Raton, Florida, they exchange glances, hold hands and smooch like teenagers.

“He’s an unbelievable guy, I love everything about him,” Swerlin says of her fiance. “He’s handsome — and he’s a good kisser.”

The youthful centenarian is also cheerful, witty, and gifted with a prodigious and vivid memory, recalling dates and locations and events without hesitation — a living history book of sorts.

Shortly after Terens turned 18, Japan bombed the US Navy base at Pearl Harbor. He, like many young American men, was keen to enlist.

By age 20 he was an expert in Morse code and aboard a ship bound for England, where he was assigned to a squadron of four P-47 Thunderbolt fighters. Terens was responsible for their ground-to-air communication.

“We were losing the war by losing a lot of planes and a lot of pilots… These pilots became friends and they got killed,” he laments. “They were all young kids.”

His company lost half of its 60 planes during the Normandy operation. Soon after, Terens volunteered to travel to that region of northern France to help transport German prisoners of war and liberated Allied troops to England.

American troops approaching Utah Beach while Allied forces stormed the Normandy beaches on D-Day. D-Day, June 6th 1944. (Photo by US National Archives / AFP)

Secret mission

One day Terens received an envelope with instructions not to open it until he reached a certain destination. Thus began a remarkable journey that took him to Soviet Ukraine via Casablanca, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Cairo, Baghdad and Tehran.

When he finally arrived in Poltava, a city east of Kyiv, a Russian officer informed him he was part of a secret mission. US B-17 aircraft were taking off from England bound for Romania, where they would bomb Axis oil fields controlled by Nazi Germany.

Terens was part of the resupply team in Ukraine that provided the Flying Fortresses with fuel and ordnance.

The operation lasted 24 hours until the Germans discovered the Allied base in Ukraine and attacked it.

Terens says he escaped but was left in no-man’s land. He contracted dysentery, and only survived thanks to the help of a local farming family.

Returning to England, he cheated death once more. When a pub proprietor refused to serve him a drink because she was about to close, he shrugged and left. He had barely walked two blocks when a German rocket destroyed the establishment.

‘Luckiest guy in the world’

After the war he returned stateside and married Thelma, his wife of 70 years with whom he raised three children.

Terens worked for a British multinational, and when he and Thelma retired, they settled in Florida.

Her death in 2018 sank Terens, and he endured “three years of feeling sorry for myself and mourning my wife,” he recalls.

But life offered him a fresh start. In 2021 a friend introduced him to Jeanne Swerlin, a charismatic woman who had also been widowed.

Sparks did not fly. On their first meeting Terens could barely look at Swerlin.

But persistence paid off. A second date changed everything, and they haven’t been apart since.

“She lights up my life, she makes everything beautiful,” he says. “She makes life worth living.”

Terens, wearing a World War II cap with “100 Year Old Vet” embroidered on the side, is over the moon about returning to France, where President Emmanuel Macron bestowed on him the nation’s highest distinction, the Legion of Honor, in 2019.

He is also thrilled, of course, about getting married. Surrounded by family and friends, December lovebirds Jeanne and Harold will say “I do” at a ceremony in which a Terens’ granddaughter will sing “I Will Always Love You” as a great-grand-daughter scatters flower petals on the ground.

At 100, this decorated military veteran acknowledges his good fortune.

“I got it all,” he says. “I’m probably the luckiest guy in the world.”

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