SHARE
COPY LINK
For members

DISCOVER FRANCE

Hiking in France: The GR footpaths explained

France is a hiker's dream with more than 70,000 kilometres of footpaths making up the Grande Randonnée (GR) network. Here's how to find a trail that suits you and plan your trip.

Hiking in France: The GR footpaths explained
A picture shows a path sign as hikers walk on the GR 20 hiking trail near Ghisoni, on the French Mediterranean island of Corsica, on May 26, 2022. (Photo by Pascal POCHARD-CASABIANCA / AFP)

If you have spent any time in nature in France, you may have noticed or heard talk of the “GR” trails – like the GR 34 that wraps around Brittany or the GR 4 which goes from the Atlantic coast to the Mediterranean – these are numbered and signposted footpaths that criss-cross several countries in western Europe.

They are particularly notable in France, which is home to thousands of kilometres of GR hiking paths. You can see a map of them all here.

Many of them have romantic nicknames like the Mont Blanc trail or the excise-men’s trail but they also have a GR number.

In France, the GR routes have been maintained by the French hiking federation and volunteers since 1947. They wind across the entire country: some follow historic or spiritual footpaths, while others pass through national parks and other exceptional natural sites. 

A GR might take you around a mountain range (like the challenging ‘GR TMB, le Tour du Mont-Blanc) or simply through fields and villages. 

Origins

The GR routes were first created by Frenchman Jean Loiseau, who loved to walk and hike in the years following World War I.

After France introduced paid holidays in 1936, Loiseau became passionate about sharing his love for hiking with the rest of the country, drawing inspiration from the Appalachian Trail (completed in 1937) for its clear path markings.

READ MORE: 13 of France’s best hiking and cycling routes

According to the hiking federation website, it was in 1947 when the Comité National des Sentiers de Grande Randonnée (National Committee for Long-distance Hiking Trails) was first created, marking the start of the hiking federation.

Later that same year the first section of the GR 3 was inaugurated in Orléans, running between Dammartin-en-Goel and Orry-la-Ville.

How to follow them

Thanks to technology, there are now apps and websites devoted to helping people plan their perfect GR itinerary, including a helpful planning site run by the hiking federation.

Once you’re on the trial, there are also helpful route markings.

The French GR symbol that you are going in the right direction looks like an equals sign, with the top line in white and the bottom in red.

When the path changes direction, a small white arrow will appear below the red line. If you are going the wrong way, you will be informed by a red and white ‘X’.

Which ones are the best?

There are too many GR routes to choose from, and each of them offers something special. Many people opt to just hike a small portion of the trail, rather than the whole thing, while others take on the challenge of walking the entire path.

Here are a few standouts;

The longest GR in France – Even though the GR 34 (Sentier des Douaniers) is the longest footpath, it is also one of France’s most accessible. 

It stretches over 2,000km, taking you around the coastline in Brittany. It alternates from beaches and cliffs, passing through the Emerald Coast and nearby to Mont-Saint-Michel.

The shortest GR in France – The GR 92 is just 23km long, and an experienced hiker can complete it in under 10 hours. That being said, its a bit of a tricky route, located in Vaucluse and linking the towns of Apt and Sannes via the Lubéron mountain range.

The hardest GR in France – This might be a bit subjective, but many people consider the GR TMB (Mont-Blanc) to be one of the most challenging. Even though it is surrounded by magnificent scenery, it takes you on a 170km loop around Mont Blanc, with 10,000m of elevation climb. It takes most people around 7-10 days to do the whole thing.

The island GR – Also reputed to be extremely difficult, the GR 20 crosses the Mediterranean island of Corsica running approximately north–south. It’s approximately 180km long, but there is a whole lot of elevation gain (12,000m).

The Chemin de Stevenson – The GR 70 follows in the footsteps of the Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson, authors of classics including Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and Treasure Island plus – probably more pertinently in this context Travels with a Donkey in the Cévannes. If you like the sound of that, there are still companies in France that run ‘donkey hike holidays’, where you are loaned a donkey to carry your gear while undertaking a multiple-stage hike.

The trail runs through central France, covering 270km between Le Puy-en-Velay (Haute-Loire) and Alès (Gard).

Camino de Santiago

One of the world’s most famous hiking routes may finish in Spain, but large portions of it are in France. Every year thousands of people complete some or all of the historic pilgrim route – some for religious reasons and others who simply love a challenging hike.

The most popular Camino de Santiago route from France goes along the GR65, or the Chemin du Puy, which starts in the Auvergne region and runs for 736km, but there are several different routes which link up to GR trails.

The route is also known in France as the Chemin de Saint-Jacques, and is marked along the way with a cockle shell icon.

You can find the complete list of GR trails here.

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.

DISCOVER FRANCE

‘They treated me like a son’ – The secrets of integrating in a Pyrenees community

They're popular with tourists for both their beauty and their wilderness - but what's it like to actually live in the Pyrenees? Author Stephen Cracknell spoke to residents on both the French and the Spanish side of the mountains about what brought them to the area and why they remain.

'They treated me like a son' - The secrets of integrating in a Pyrenees community

In the classic French novel Jean de Florette, the titular hero inherits a house in rural southern France and moves there, although an early misunderstanding convinces him that the locals have rejected him.

Jean believes he doesn’t need the village. He is strong and works hard – Gérard Depardieu played the role on screen – but finally he comes to grief because he hasn’t integrated.

Much has changed since 1963, but there are still areas where outsiders have had less influence on local life. Like the Pyrenees.

My friend, Open University professor Gordon Wilson, and I have been talking to residents there, in both France and Catalonia.

How do they live and what do they think of their neighbours? For anyone moving from a town to a rural area – and not just to the Pyrenees – what they say is worth listening to.

One outsider who has successfully integrated is Mustapha, from Morocco. He had the advantage of growing up on a farm in the Atlas Mountains so knew the kind of life awaiting him in the Pyrenees.

He was also determined: when he could not obtain a visa, he crossed to Spain in a dinghy. When he was confronted by his complete lack of Spanish and Catalan, he worked around the problem by talking Sheep. Within two days he found a job as a shepherd in Pallars Sobirà, Catalonia.

“What surprised me most was the good people,” he said. “Very good people. Very welcoming. I was living in my bosses’ house. They treated me like a son.”

Shepherd Mustafa with his dogs. Photo Stephen Cracknell

During his first summer in the high pastures, however, he had to live alone in a tent. When he brought the sheep back down in autumn, they had gained weight, but he had lost 14kg.

“One night I heard a lot of noise coming from the sheep. I was sleeping in the tent. The bear was eating a sheep fifty metres away. Eating the sheep. Argh! Well, I shut the tent up and that was it. I just let him eat it.”

After three years he obtained his residence papers. He and his wife, Fatima, now have two children. All four of them speak Catalan, Spanish, Berber and Arabic.

Another person now living in the mountains is Adeline.

Before she moved to France’s Ariège département, she only knew the Pyrenees through its footpaths.

Her mother was a nurse, her father a stonemason, she herself was a teacher. Then she fell in love with Mathias, a shepherd. Despite her origins in the south of France, moving to an isolated farm was a big leap for her.

“I decided to resign from teaching because I knew that it was no longer right for me. It was a bit like jumping off a cliff because I knew it would be difficult to earn my living.”

When she moved to Mathias’ farm, she took up management of the walkers’ hostel – which is how Gordon and I came to meet her. She grew food to feed the guests. Then, when there was a glut of fruit, she converted it into ice cream and sorbet. Now she runs the hostel, works the land, and sells produce, both fresh and frozen, on her market stall in St Girons.

Adeline now runs a walkers’ hostel at Esbintz in Ariège. Photo: Stephen Cracknell

“When I arrived, I was Mathias’ girlfriend… Now it’s the opposite effect. So, when Mathias comes on my stall, people say, ‘Oh you are the boyfriend of the girl who makes ice cream!’” Adeline has become part of the community.

But what to make of René? Unlike Mustapha and Adeline, René was born and bred in the Pyrenees, as was everyone in the family except for his Swiss wife.

He has always lived in Ariège. In my definition he is a local. But he told us: “We are foreigners”.

His grandfather, he explained, came from the Ebro delta in southern Catalonia, looking for work.

He walked across the Pyrenees, crossed the border into France and stopped at the first village. He married a woman who was living there. That was in 1920.

Yet René still feels he is an outsider despite his family roots in the area. His comments give a clue to his sense of detachment: “The locals, it’s simple. Here, it’s sheep, Saint-Girons it’s cows. Full stop. Forests? If they are a problem, they get burnt.”

Until his recent retirement, René was a school nurse: “What I see in the young locals in the sixth-form college in Foix, for example, for some, as soon as they go beyond Pamiers [20km north], it is worse than northern Europe. They’ve never been away.”

These four routes to the Pyrenees – by dinghy, by love, by walking, by birth – are as diverse as the people who followed them. As the poet Antonio Machado wrote: “Traveller, there is no path, the path is made by walking”.

Mountain People: Tales from the Pyrenees, by Gordon Wilson and Steve Cracknell, is published by Austin Macauley (London). Also published by Stephen Cracknell: The Implausible Rewilding of the Pyrenees, Lulu, 2021

SHOW COMMENTS