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LEARNING FRENCH

How to do small-talk in France

If you're spending a significant amount of time in France you will end up in a situation where you might need to - or want to - start a conversation with someone you don't know. But what are the rules of small talk in France?

How to do small-talk in France
Small-talk in the park in France? Photo: AFP

All countries have their own – usually unwritten – code when it comes to small-talk, from Scandinavian countries where exchanging pleasantries with strangers is regarded with deep suspicion to the USA where perky chat is practically compulsory with a wide range of people.

When it comes to small-talk, France lies somewhere in the middle – it’s not weird to offer a bit of chat with someone you don’t know, but the context has to be right. 

Greetings 

What France definitely does do, a lot, is greetings – it’s regarded as rude to start any interaction, even buying a baguette in the bakery, without a bonjour (or bonsoir if it’s evening).

You’ll be expected to greet people in a wide range of scenarios, from ordering in a shop or café to getting into an elevator and even walking into a doctor’s waiting room.

Explained: When you should greet people in France

However, the exchange of greetings does not necessarily mean it’s time to start small-talk – in the scenario of a crowded elevator for example, you would normally just exchange bonjours when you get in, and then add a bonne-journée (have a nice day) as people leave. No further chat is required or expected. 

Ca va

One thing to note is that ça va – which you’ll likely be taught in school – is not a greeting.

It means ‘how are you’ or ‘are you OK’ and it’s a genuine question and is reserved for people that you know – in addition to friends, you might add a ça va after your bonjour to colleagues, neighbours or acquaintances. If someone has asked if you are fine, it’s polite to ask them back. 

It’s a reasonably casual phrase, so if you’re meeting the bank manager you wouldn’t chuck in a ça va.

There are two ways to use ça va – the first is in passing, usually for people who don’t really know and who you’re not trying to start a conversation with.

In that case it goes

Ca va ?

Ca va. Ca va ?

Ca va. 

You’ve both asked each other if you are fine, been told that you are fine and then the conversation ends;

If you want to start more of a chat with a person who has asked you ça va ? you can reply how you are in a little more detail and then ask Et toi ? (and you?). 

Starting small talk

So when is it OK to start small talk? As in most countries, it depends on the situation and although there are always exceptions a general rule is that small talk is more likely to happen in villages or smaller towns than it is in big cities.

In a city it’s obviously impractical to greet everyone you see walking on the street, but you could try to chat with your neighbours in common areas (assuming you live in an apartment building).

In a village on the other hand, it’s normal to greet someone with a bonjour as they go past on the street, even if you don’t know them.

Likewise if you’re in a village or a small town it’s likely that small-talk will be exchanged in the shop, the bakery or the bar. You’re also far more likely to chat to your neighbours, who maybe become friends.

The international code of dog-walkers also applies – two people walking dogs can greet each other and exchange compliments about each other’s dogs. 

You might also do some small-talk in a bar or restaurant, at the hairdresser’s or in a taxi.

As in most countries, a bit of chat – often about holidays – is normal at the hairdressers, some taxi drivers like to chat (or rant about their preferred political theories) while some do not and it’s the same in a bar or restaurant – if you’re in an establishment that is run by the owner they will often come and make recommendations that can develop into a chat. 

If you are a parent, small talk in the school pick-up/drop-off area is also appropriate.

READ MORE: Crèche to cafés: How to make friends with other parents in France

What to talk about? 

So what’s considered a safe subject for small-talk in France? Firstly, beware of getting too personal – French people, especially of the older generation, can be quite reserved and you wouldn’t start asking personal questions of someone who have only just met or don’t know well.

Then there are the taboo topics – money, religion and sex – which should be saved for people you know well. 

Just as in England, the weather is a safe topic and if you’re in a village there are all sorts of general subjects to discuss – the upcoming fête, the state of the bus service and when the high-speed broadband might be coming (soon – it’s always ‘soon’).

Another safe topic is a bit of gentle complaining, in fact some French people will admit that their habit of complaining is just another form of small-talk – if you’re talking to a colleague you don’t know well or a neighbour then complaining about the weather, public transport, the latest strike, the fact the coffee machine isn’t working again are all good, safe topics. 

Another easy topic for foreigners in France is to ask questions – most French people are happy to explain things about their country to outsiders – why is November 1st a holiday, when does bonjour become bonsoir and what’s the cake with the gold paper crown on it all make for good ice-breakers. 

Pick-ups 

The other scenario when you might be chatting with someone you don’t know is if someone is attempting to chat you up. 

It’s not uncommon in France to be approached in a bar, café, bookstore or even the street by someone who likes the look of you and wants to start a conversation. If you’re not interested just politely say no and move on – if you like the look of them you could try one of these (cheesy) chat-up lines

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FRANCE EXPLAINED

EXPLAINED: Who are France’s ‘dames pipi’?

You may have noticed that public restrooms in French railway stations are usually pretty clean, and you can thank this group of workers for that.

EXPLAINED: Who are France’s ‘dames pipi’?

Who are the ‘dames pipi’?

They are the people – mainly women – who run and maintain public lavatories in major towns and cities in France, notably those at railway stations. In English we might call them ‘restroom attendants’.

They collect any fees from customers, maintain and clean facilities – which may include showers as well as toilets – ensure that these areas are properly stocked with toilet paper and soap, and may sell additional hygiene products as necessary.

France’s restroom attendants have been in the news recently after a petition was launched following the dismissal of one attendant at the Montparnasse rail station. She was reportedly dismissed because she accepted a €1 tip from a customer.

At the time of writing, the petition – calling for the worker’s reinstatement, and her salary backdated – had nearly 34,000 signatures.

How long has France had ‘dames pipi’?

Well over a century. Marcel Proust mentioned one in his novel À la recherche du temps perdu. They are, however, much less common these days, and you’ll really only see staffed public conveniences in areas of heavy tourism, or at larger railway stations.

These days, restroom attendants earn minimum wage in France.

Should we boycott SNCF, then?

It wasn’t them, although the loo in question was at Montparnasse. The service is run and maintained by a company called 2theloo.

So, we shouldn’t tip them?

Good question. Restroom attendants used to be able to accept tips to supplement their wages, but the firm that the woman worked for insists that these gratuities are not to be kept personally.

That’s why she was dismissed, according to media reports. It’s probably advisable not to tip to avoid a similar incident, or at least to ask before tipping.

Hang on, though… Isn’t the term ‘dame pipi’ offensive?

Yes it is. Many people nowadays see it as highly disrespectful, reductive, and about 50 years out of date. It’s very much a colloquial term that’s rooted in the past. But it still appears in the press – maybe because it fits a headline. And then we have to explain what one is, and why the term is offensive.

More formally, and on any job descriptions, employees who carry out this sort of work are referred to as an agent d’accueil et d’entretien – reception and maintenance worker.

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