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LA BELLA VITA

La Bella Vita: Italy’s new rail routes and the best Christmas markets to visit

From exploring lesser-known parts of Italy by train to visiting the most magical Christmas markets this winter, our weekly newsletter La Bella Vita offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like an Italian.

Milan's popular Christmas market will open on December 1st.
Milan's popular Christmas market is just one of the many across Italy this winter. Photo by MARCO BERTORELLO / AFP.

La Bella Vita is our regular look at the real culture of Italy – from language to cuisine, manners to art. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox: go to newsletter preferences in ‘My Account’ or follow the instructions in the newsletter box below.

If you enjoy both skiing and travelling by sleeper train, you’ll want to know about the new overnight rail service from Rome taking passengers directly to the famous ski resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo on Fridays.

This means you can finish work, catch the train from Termini, have dinner on board (and buy your ski passes at the same time), and wake up the next morning in the magical landscape of the Dolomites.

And if you’ve already visited Cortina, you can also take a bus from the train station there to other ski resorts in the area.

Tickets go on sale from this weekend for the first journeys, which start in mid-December and are to run every Friday evening throughout this winter. We’ve put the details available so far in the article below:

Italy to launch night train from Rome to Cortina d’Ampezzo in December

The Rome-Cortina rail link is just the first of many Treni Turistici Italiani, ‘Italian tourist trains’, which state railway company Ferrovie dello Stato (FS) is planning to run between Italy’s major cities and coastal and mountain destinations from 2024.

There’s a train from Milan to the Ligurian coast in the works, as well as a line taking passengers from Rome to Reggio Calabria at the southern tip of the country, via the scenic route.

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These journeys would normally require changes, but as well as being a more convenient and enjoyable option intended to prolong your holiday (or weekend trip) the trains themselves are part of the experience, FS says, with the Rome-Cortina train for example made up of carriages decommissioned in the 1980s that have been renovated to modern standards.

Ski slopes in Italy’s Dolomites will soon be easier to reach from Rome. Photo by Secret Travel Guide on Unsplash

The services are hoped to help more people to travel beyond Italy’s major cities and best-known tour destinations, encouraging a more sustainable form of travel which supports local economies in lesser-visited areas.

The company also said it also plans to launch pricier luxury rail services, fronted by the Orient Express La Dolce Vita fleet of six trains with “deluxe cabins” and fine-dining restaurant cars, travelling across 14 Italian regions and crossing national borders to reach Paris, Istanbul or Split, Croatia.

Where Italy’s new ‘tourist trains’ can take you in 2024

And Italy might not be the country most associated with Christmas markets and winter wonderlands, but the country goes all out for the festive season, staging everything from giant nativity sets to dazzling light shows – and some pretty impressive markets, too.

Most of these are found in the north of the country, though plenty of smaller markets do exist in the south too. Most are opening in the next week or so, and unlike in some countries Italy’s Christmas markets usually close a full week before Christmas, so you won’t want to leave your visit until the last minute.

We’ve listed a few of our favourites below, but we’d love to hear about any others you’d recommend in the comments section below the article.

Italy’s Christmas markets: Where and when to visit this festive season

Remember if you’d like to have this weekly newsletter sent straight to your inbox you can sign up for it via Newsletter preferences in “My Account”.

Is there an aspect of the Italian way of life you’d like to see us write more about? Please email me at [email protected].

 

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LA BELLA VITA

La Bella Vita: Every step of an Italian dinner and are dialects really dying out?

From the ins and outs of a traditional Italian dinner to how the use of Italian dialects is changing, our weekly newsletter La Bella Vita offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like an Italian.

La Bella Vita: Every step of an Italian dinner and are dialects really dying out?

La Bella Vita is our regular look at the real culture of Italy – from language to cuisine, manners to art. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to newsletter preferences in ‘My Account’ or following the instructions in the newsletter box below.

Less elaborate than French cuisine, Italy’s cucina uses simple ingredients and tends to prioritise fresh local produce over complex cooking techniques. 

But while it may not be as sophisticated as its French counterpart, even an informal Italian dinner is still a multi-course affair, often stretching over several hours and involving various stages. 

If you’re invited into an Italian home for dinner, or are planning an Italian-style dinner yourself, here’s a useful rundown of the courses you can generally expect from a typical cena.

Antipasto to amaro: What to expect from every step of an Italian dinner

It’s a common scenario for foreign nationals in Italy: you’re at the local bar-pasticceria sipping on your frothy morning cappuccino and savouring a cornetto when you suddenly get the feeling that the Italian customers you’re overhearing aren’t actually speaking Italian at all.

Well, that may be because they aren’t.

From Veneto to Sicily, almost every corner of the country has its own regional dialect, though ‘dialect’ isn’t always the most appropriate way to describe Italy’s dialetti as many have evolved separately from what we know today as Italian and could be seen as languages of their own.

Though dialects were once preferred among locals over ‘standard’ Italian, even in formal settings, official statistics have shown for years now that only around 14 percent of Italians still speak their dialect at home. 

View of Naples in the summertime

In Naples and other parts of southern Italy, dialect is still widely used. But something curious is happening to the way many Italians use their local languages. Photo by Diego Mattevi on Unsplash

So does that mean that Italian dialects are disappearing for good, or are they simply evolving? Our writer Silvia Marchetti looks into how their use is changing in the article below.

Are Italy’s many dialects dying out – or just evolving?

Italian counts around 67 million native speakers around the world, and the way the language is used by these speakers isn’t always what visitors or new learners expect. 

Confusion often surrounds words that have crept out into the big wide world and taken on new meanings elsewhere.

We’ve put together eight words which you may never hear native speakers use (or at least not with the meaning you might expect).

Eight Italian words native speakers would never use

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