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FOOD AND DRINK

Offal and midnight pastries: Six surprising Italian food customs

You may think you're an expert on Italian cuisine - but there are some traditions that will come as a surprise to anyone who's yet to experience Italy's food culture up close.

Italian pastries: not just for daytime.
Italian pastries: not just for daytime. Photo by Gene Gallin on Unsplash

You’ve learned to keep cream out of your carbonara, and that meatballs on spaghetti is an American invention.

But there are some Italian food customs that you probably won’t pick up on until you’ve spent some time in Italy.

Whipped cream on ice cream

If you’ve ever looked down at your ice cream and thought “this isn’t bad, but what it really needs is more cream”, then Italy is the country for you.

Up and down the length of the peninsula, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a gelateria whose servers don’t offer to put panna, or whipped cream, on top of your gelato.

When and where this tradition began is unclear, but the fact that in Milan it costs extra while in Rome and the south it tends to be free has been the subject of some controversy in the past, with Italian media dubbing the dispute “panna-gate“.

Sauceless pasta

You might think you like pasta…but can you really declare yourself a true pasta-lover unless you’ve tried – and loved – pasta without any sauce on it?

Pasta aglio olio e peperoncino, or pasta (specifically spaghetti, linguine or some other long pasta) with garlic, oil and chilli pepper flakes is a dish that originated in Naples and quickly became popular all over the country as a low-cost, low-effort meal.

While you wouldn’t be surprised to hear this kind of food is regularly served in people’s homes, it’s also not uncommon to find it on the menu in informal restaurants, where diners will part with good money for a plate of pasta with oil and garlic (and maybe some chilli and parsley) on it.

Even more basic is pasta in bianco – in its purest form, plain pasta with a pat of butter on it, and if you’re lucky some cheese – though you’re unlikely to find this offered in a restaurant. Related options include pasta with olive oil and bitter greens, and pasta with butter and asparagus.

Potato on pizza

A country for keto dieters, Italy is not. 

Carbs are king here, so it was only a matter of time before someone came up with the idea of putting potato and pizza together.

Despite how bland it sounds, pizza con patate is actually delicious – a thick and crispy white pizza bianca base topped with well-seasoned, thinly sliced potatoes sprinkled with rosemary.

READ ALSO: Five tips for ordering pizza in Italy

You won’t tend to find this option on the menu at sit-down pizzerias – but go into any bakery serving up trays of pizza al taglio, or pizza by the slice, and you’re bound to see potato pizza sitting alongside margherita and focaccia.

Biscuits dipped in wine

The British are partial to biscuits dipped in tea on occasion, but Italians prefer an altogether more decadent variation: biscuits soaked in wine.

Dipping cantucci (the crunchy dried biscuit that most anglophones refer to as ‘biscotti’) in sweet vin santo dessert wine after a meal is a Tuscan tradition, but it’s popular enough that you’ll see it on the menu at plenty of restaurants in other regions.

The legend goes that vin santo – ‘holy wine’ – is so named because in the 1300s, as a plague swept through Italy, a Franciscan friar in Siena started giving his parishioners altar wine in the hopes of curing them. While the medical science is questionable, a sip of the wine did provide some relief – so much so that people started believing in its miraculous properties.

As for where the custom of dipping biscuits in the wine came from – people probably just realised it tasted nice.

Midnight pastries

If you’re the kind of person who starts craving breakfast at midnight, you’ll want to head to certain southern Italian cities where some bakeries turn out cornetti and other pastries into the early hours.

Don’t expect to find these kinds of nocturnal or 24-hour bakeries in touristy neighbourhoods or the fancier parts of town; they traditionally tend to be based a bit further out, and cater mainly to workers starting or coming off their shift or students who are up all hours of the night.

READ ALSO: Aperol and aperitivo: A guide to visiting bars and cafes in Italy

That doesn’t mean they’re not worth making the journey to if you’re a night owl. An institution like Il Pangocciolaio, for example, in Rome’s Ostiense neighbourhood, serves cream-stuffed sweet breads and mini-pizzas from 7pm until between 3 and 5 in the morning, and is rarely without a lengthy queue outside its door.

Offal

Italians are not squeamish when it comes to offcuts; from tripe to oxtail to tongue and even brains, you can pretty much guarantee that if it comes from an animal and is edible, in some part of Italy, it’s regularly used in cooking.

READ ALSO: From fried brains to ‘sexy’ cakes: The Italian foods you might not expect in Italy

Roman cuisine is particularly known for its emphasis on offal, but it’s far from the only part of the country where you’ll find unusual food items; from Tuscany, where lampredotto cow stomach is a popular sandwich filling, to a range of southern regions where pig’s blood is traditionally used to make the sanguinaccio dolce chocolate dessert.

A new year’s eve delicacy from Emilia Romagna is zampone – a pig’s trotter stuffed with pork meat – while in Puglia and in Catania on Sicily’s eastern coast, you’ll find horse meat widely available at food stalls and in restaurants.

Member comments

  1. I asked for linguine with aglio olio e peperoncino,in my local restaurant only to be told in no uncertain terms, “NO! You must always use spaghetti for this dish.

    While we are on the subject of plain pasta dishes, my local restaurant also serves pasta with sage and butter. Delicious.

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ITALY EXPLAINED

Why you don’t need to leave large tips at Italian restaurants

Many visitors from the US leave a generous tip as standard when dining out in Italy, while others say no tip is necessary. So what are the rules and how much should you really leave?

Why you don’t need to leave large tips at Italian restaurants

American tourists, coming from the land of mandatory tip culture, are prone to reflexively tipping 20 percent or more wherever they travel in the world. And many would be aghast at the idea of not leaving a tip at all.

But in Italy, as regular visitors know, tipping really is not required or expected

Visitors are sometimes confused about this because staff at some restaurants encourage American visitors to tip generously by suggesting that it is, in fact, the norm.

If Italians tip, they do so occasionally for good service, and making a habit of tipping modestly when dining out in the country will help you blend in better with the locals.

Why don’t Italians tip in restaurants?

If you come from a country where tipping is expected it can feel uncomfortable not to do so.

But there are a couple of reasons why Italians don’t usually tip – or if they do, they leave a moderate amount.

Reader question: How do I know if I should tip at Italian restaurants?

Italian restaurant bills often already include small service charges, normally of a couple of euros per head, which will be listed as servizio on the bill.

(You might also see a ‘coperto’ or cover charge, which is not specifically a service charge. This goes to the restaurant rather than the server.)

And Italy doesn’t have much of a tipping culture simply because Italian wait staff aren’t reliant on tips to get by like they are in many parts of the US. 

As is the case elsewhere in Europe, they are paid a standard wage and any tips are viewed as an added extra.

So, while tipping is always appreciated, rest assured that it’s entirely your choice (beyond servizio charges.)

What if I want to tip anyway?

Italians might tip in recognition of standout service and when there’s no servizio charge listed.

But tipping here is modest: it would be very unusual to leave 20 percent or even more.

You can leave an Italian-style tip in the form of a couple of extra euros per person, or by rounding the bill up to the nearest five or ten.

READ ALSO: What are the rules on tipping in Italy?

If you’re paying by card, bear in mind that very few places will be able to add a tip to the card payment – so you might want to carry some change or small notes with you.

What if the waiter asks for a tip?

It’s not unheard of for wait staff at some restaurants in tourist hotspots to suggest that tipping is a requirement in Italy, or even to tell customers that “service is not included”.

Restaurant staff in popular destinations are of course well aware of the generous amounts commonly left by some overseas visitors – and some do try to encourage this.

While this tactic leaves some customers unimpressed and less likely to tip, others say they feel pressured and end up tipping just in case.

If there’s no servizio charge on the bill, it may be technically true that service is not included.

But tipping is always at the customer’s discretion in Italy, and staff at reputable restaurants don’t tend to ask.

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