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DISCOVER SWEDEN

Ten islands to visit in the Stockholm archipelago (and how to get there)

There are almost 30,000 islands and islets in the Stockholm archipelago and each of them is different from the next. Here are ten worth visiting, whether you're looking for a party night, a relaxing weekend, seafood or family fun.

Ten islands to visit in the Stockholm archipelago (and how to get there)
A taxi boat at Vaxholm, one of the easiest islands to get to in the Stockholm archipelago. Photo: Anna Hållams/imagebank.sweden.se

Editor’s note: The prices listed below are summer prices, correct at the time of publication. If you’re travelling in the off-season, note that the Waxholmsbolaget ferries are included if you already have an SL period card.

Vaxholm

Vaxholm is the best place to make your first foray into the archipelago, for two good reasons.

Firstly, it’s simple to get there, with quick, regular departures from central Stockholm, by bus or ferry. Secondly, there’s plenty to do. The archipelago’s self-proclaimed capital has plenty of charming wooden houses, shops and restaurants on offer, and there’s a spectacular fortress.

Alternatively you can get away from the harbour to try out the hiking trails through the quieter side of Vaxholm. And nearby is the small island of Badholmen, which can even be rented out for private weddings, parties and events.

Journey time: 57 minutes each way from Strömkajen with Waxholmsbolaget (104 kronor one way), 50 minutes with Cinderella (185 kronor) from Strandvägen. You can also take bus 670 from Danderyds sjukhus, which takes 42 minutes and costs 42 kronor unless you have an SL card.

Best for: Anyone short on time or not too outdoorsy

Don’t miss: The beautiful shoreside Vaxholms Hembygdsgårds Café

Grinda

This is the first public island in the archipelago proper, meaning you can only get there by water. Grinda has options for camping or staying at the art nouveau-style island hotel (Grinda Wärdshus), where you can splash out on the indulgent floating sauna. Alternatively (and much more cheaply!), there are more saunas at the hostel and a public one on the waterfront.

Keep things simple with forest hikes, swimming and relaxing on the beach, or choose to get active by renting kayaks or paddle boards and playing petanque or volleyball. Children can visit the animals at the island farm.

Journey time: From 1hr35 and 125 kronor each way from Strömkajen with Waxholmsbolaget (journey time varies and there are some departures that take three hours, so check before travelling), 1hr20 and 230 kronor with Cinderella from Strandvägen.

Best for: Active families

Don’t miss: A sauna visit

Sandhamn

Made famous worldwide by the Sandhamn Murders crime series, we assure you this island is much more peaceful in real life, but there’s still plenty to do. Stay close to the harbour for lively bars or a trip to the spa, or venture inland to explore the forest walking trails. There are bikes and motorboats to hire, or you can spend the day fishing, playing mini-golf or sailing.

Journey time: Around two hours on public transport. Take bus 433 or 434 from Slussen to Stavsnäs (42 kronor without an SL card), where the Waxholmsbolaget boat to Sandhamn takes between 35 minutes and an hour (104 kronor).

250 kronor each way and 2hr15 with the Cinderella boats from Strandvägen.

Best for: Island nightlife

Don’t miss: The museum, which will clue you in on archipelago life over the centuries

The island’s official name is actually Sandön, and Sandhamn is the name of its main town. Photo: Anna Hållams/imagebank.sweden.se

Arholma

One of the largest islands in the northern archipelago, Arholma is also the furthest north of the populated islands, so the journey here is a true adventure. It’s a great destination if you want to learn more about Swedish maritime history, by taking a guided tour of the old military facility or exploring the coastal defence museum. Or just relax in the forest of public sauna before testing out the many swimming spots.

Journey time: Approximately 4h30 with Waxholmsbolaget (186 kronor) from Strömkajen. Alternatively, you can travel to Simpnäs by car or bus (2-3 hours), from where the ferry takes 15 minutes.

Best for: Maritime tradition

Don’t miss: The Arholma beacon, an old lookout post that hosts an art gallery during the summer months as well as offering stunning views out to sea

Möja

A trip to Möja, inhabited since Viking times, is unlikely to disappoint. It’s well-equipped for tourists, with cafés, shops, hostels and cottages to rent, but retains its traditional charm.

There are several different villages so if you do some research (or just explore!) you can head to the spot that suits you best. Berg has a museum and a small outdoor dance floor, while up the north end of the island at Långvik you get great views over the water from the jetty.

Journey time: Approximately 3h30 with Waxholmsbolaget (186 kronor) from Strömkajen to Berg, the island’s central town.

Best for: Postcard-perfect archipelago villages

Don’t miss: Wikströms Fisk, a seafood restaurant run by one of the only still active professional fishermen in the entire archipelago

Möja isn’t just a tourism island; it’s home to plenty of permanent residents, too. Photo: Karin Malmhav/SvD/Scanpix

Svartsö

At Alsvik, the ferry pulls up right by the island store, where you can purchase any last minute snacks for your picnic on the nearby beach. Explore the island on foot or bike, wandering through the thick forests and relaxing by the lakes. When it comes to finding accommodation, you can rent a ”glamping” tent from Svartsö logi or opt for a room in the hotel or hostel.

Journey time: Around 2hr15 each way (it varies) and 154 kronor from Strömkajen to Alsvik with Waxholmsbolaget.

Best for: Forest walks

Don’t miss: Storträsk, the largest lake on the island, which is great for swimming

Landsort/Öja

This is the farthest south you can get in the archipelago, and although the island’s official name i Öja it also goes by Landsort, which is what the lighthouse and village at the southern end is called.

Just a couple of dozen people live in the charming village, but you won’t get bored here. It’s well worth visiting the 3,000-year-old labyrinth – built with supposed magic powers to bring good luck in fishing and sailing – and the eerie plague churchyard. The only downside is that so much of the journey getting here is done by land.

Journey time: Around 2hr25 in total. First, take the commuter train to Nynäsgård, then change to bus 852 to Ankarudden, from where the ferry to Landsort takes 30 minutes (104 kronor). You can also take the train all the way to the main station in Nynäshamn, down by the harbour, if you want to make a pit stop there before catching the bus (which leaves from the station, too).

Best for: Bird-watching or rural relaxation

Don’t miss: The lighthouse. Built in 1689, it’s the oldest lighthouse in Sweden.

Landsort and its lighthouse. Photo: Björn Larsson Ask/Scanpix

Finnhamn

Home to sandy beaches and idyllic swimming spots, Finnhamn is an island paradise, and the boat stops close to the popular restaurant Finnhamns Café Krog. You can have an active trip with a rented kayak or SUP and discover why they call it Paradisviken (Paradise Bay), or spend an afternoon on a high ropes course or paintballing. There’s also, of course, the chance for a more peaceful stroll through the forest, and plenty of varied food and accommodation options.

Journey time: From 3 hours (186 kronor) each way from Strömkajen with Waxholmsbolaget.

Best for: An eco-friendly trip

Don’t miss: Renting a rowing boat to take you to one of the smaller islets – Finnhamn actually refers to a cluster of islands

Gällnö

Another slice of genuine archipelago life, with sandy beaches, rowing boats for hire, swimming spots, and fields and meadows. Although it’s not too far to get to from the centre of Stockholm, in terms of the pace of life Gällnö couldn’t be further away.

Journey time: From 1hr45 each way from Strömkajen with Waxholmsbolaget (154 kronor) or 1h30 from Strandvägen with Cinderella (230 kronor).

Best for: A total escape from the city bustle

Don’t miss: The cherry blossom and apple trees in bloom in spring

Utö

Utö has a unique history, home to what’s probably Sweden’s oldest iron mine (you can still visit the mining museum and well-preserved miners’ dwellings) before being transformed at the start of the 20th century into a fully fledged party island.

Wholesaler EW Levin negotiated for the islanders to leave their homes so he could turn it into a holiday paradise which hosted Swedish stars including Greta Garbo.

Today there are still plenty of places to eat and drink in style when you’re not lazing on one of the gorgeous beaches. For sporty vacationers, there’s no shortage of activities either: cycling, kayaking, beach volleyball, frisbee golf and minigolf.

Journey time: Approximately 2hr30. You can take the commuter train from Stockholm City to Nynäshamn, from where you can take the 1.15hr ferry to Gruvbryggan (the ferry costs 104 kronor).

For a shorter journey time (1hr40) but more complicated route, take the commuter train from Stockholm City to Västerhaninge, then the 846 bus to Årsta brygga, from which the ferry takes 40 minutes to Gruvbryggan.

Best for: Beaches

Don’t miss: The windmill, with panoramic views over the island and sea, or the delicious bread from the bakery

Article first written by Catherine Edwards in 2018, and updated by The Local’s editorial team in 2024.

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DISCOVER SWEDEN

Where can you buy Sweden’s mega-hyped candy in its homeland?

Swedish candy is having a moment, with BonBon, the New York-based purveyor of sickly sweet Swedish treats enjoying runaway success and TikTok, YouTube and Instagram flooded with candy videos. So where can visitors to Sweden buy the real stuff?

Where can you buy Sweden's mega-hyped candy in its homeland?

The centres of Sweden’s three big cities all boast upmarket stores selling artisanal liquorice and Belgian-style chocolates but that is absolutely not what you want. Real Swedish candy comes from factories and is anything but artisanal. 

Producers include the Swedish confectionary giant Cloetta, smaller players like Grahns, Bubs, and Grenna, and international companies like Finland’s Fazer and the US multinational Mondelez. 

What you’re looking for is either a branch of Hemmakväll, the giant in the Swedish candy business, or a specialist retailer that aims to have an extensive selection of losgodis — literally “loose sweets”, Sweden’s word for “pick and mix”.  

With over 70 franchise stores in just about every Swedish city, Hemmakväll, which means “evening at home”, sells more Swedish candy than anyone else. 

Failing that, every supermarket, big or small, will have Swedish candy for sale, both in bags for popular varieties such as bilar (cars) surskallar (sour skulls), and gummibjörn (gummy bears), and a small pick-and-mix section. But then you miss out on the sheer visual impact of 500 or more varieties of sweets laid out in aisles. 

Stockholm

House of Candy, on Stockholm’s main shopping street Drottninggatan, aims to have the city’s largest selection of pick-and-mix sweets and boasts more than 450 varieties, both factory produced and some more artisanal. 

Caramella, at Hötorget in central Stockholm, is a more traditional sweet shop that sells both upmarket artisanal sweets and the standard varieties.

Svea Godis on Sveagatan, a little further from the centre, boasts a decent selection crammed into a relatively small shop. 

To find a branch of Hemmakväll in Stockholm, you have to leave the city centre. There’s one in Hammarby, just south of Södermalm, another in Sundbyberg, and another in the Kista Galleria shopping centre. 

Gothenburg

In Gothenburg, there’s a branch of Hemmakväll in the Odinsplatsen square, right by the central station, which makes it an easy place to stock up before leaving for the airport back home. 

The city also boasts the 4-Gott sweet shop on Östra Hamngatan in the city centre, which claims to have over 1,000 varieties of sweets in its pick-and-mix section. 

Sega Gubben, on Övre Husargatan in the city centre, boasts 600 varieties, while in the upmarket Majorna district there’s Godis Stan. 

Malmö 

In Malmö, you have to leave the city centre and go up the Amiralsgatan street to the old concert hall building to find the nearest branch of Hemmakväll. There is also a branch in the Triangeln shopping centre.  

The city also boasts two branches of Sweeet, a much smaller local challenger to Hemmakväll, one in Mariedalsvägen, a short walk from the Slottparken and Pildammsparken parks, and another on Nobelvägen, close to the popular Folketspark. 

Candy Airlines on the E4 motorway in the north of Skåne is a popular place to break off long car journeys. Photo: Godisflyget

Outside the big cities 

Perhaps the most striking sweet shop in Sweden is Godisflyget, or “Candy Airlines”, which is housed in a building shaped like an aeroplane on the side of the E4 motorway as it enters Skåne from Småland. The shop is a great place for families with children to break off their journey, and sells more than 400 varieties of sweets at reasonable prices.  

The pretty town of Gränna on the banks of Lake Vättern is another excellent place for people journeying between southern and northern Sweden to break off their journeys, with its many artisanal manufacturers of polkagris, Sweden’s answer to candy cane. This isn’t the place to buy the sort of sweets that are viral on TikTok, however. 

Sweden’s biggest sweet shops are the ones on the borders of Norway and Finland, catering to border shoppers who buy much cheaper Swedish sweets in bulk at the same time as stocking up on alcohol and food. 

The Norwegian border is dominated by Gottebiten, which has branches at Nordby, Strömstad, Svinesund, and Charlottenberg. On the Finnish border, there’s Candy World, a giant warehouse in Haparanda. 

Candy World also has branches in Sundsvall, Borlänge, and Gävle and has plans to open warehouses in Örebro and Norrköping. 

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