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FOOD AND DRINK

EXPLAINED: Why does milk taste different in Spain?

If you live in Spain or you've spent time here on holiday, you'll notice that the milk here tastes different to what you may be used to back home, but why is that?

EXPLAINED: Why does milk taste different in Spain?
Spaniards drink much more UHT milk than fresh. Photo: The Humble Co. / Unsplash

One of the main reasons milk tastes different in Spain is because it’s UHT (Ultra High Temperature) or long-life milk, stored in cartons, instead of fresh milk stored in bottles in refrigerated sections of the supermarkets. 

You’ll notice if you go to the supermarket in Spain that there’s a whole aisle dedicated to various types of UHT milk, but when you go to the cold section, you’ll only find one or two different types of fresh milk. 

UHT milk gets its name from the ultra-high temperature process it goes through to be sterilised, giving it a shelf life of up to nine months, without even having to be refrigerated before it’s been opened.

During the production of UHT milk, the liquid is heated to above 135C for a minimum of one second. When fresh milk is pasteurised, it is heated to 72C for 15 seconds.

READ ALSO: Five ways that ‘leche’ means more than just ‘milk’ in Spain

Spaniards will often have some milk in their morning coffee and kids might drink it with a spoonful of Cola Cao (chocolate drink powder) mixed in, but they rarely eat cereal and would never put it in their tea. Toast or a pastry is a much more common breakfast choice. 

Because of this, they don’t use as much milk in general and therefore, need it to last longer. 

UHT milk is very common in Spain. Photo: MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP
 

Milk consumption

According to the latest data available from the Food and Agricultural Organisation of the United Nations (FAO) Spaniards drink 173 litres of milk per capita per year. This is behind the UK which consumes 204 litres per capita, but well behind the countries with the highest milk consumption in Europe – Montenegro, Finland, Albania and the Netherlands, which all drink over 300 litres per capita, per year. 

These countries also drink much more fresh milk, than UHT. 

Fresh milk is also very common in places like the UK, the US and Canada, but most people in Spain are happy with UHT and this is what they’ll even serve in cafes with your coffee. 

EU countries, in general, drink a lot more UHT milk than other Western countries. In the UK for example, only 8.4 percent of milk purchased is UHT, but in Belgium, the figure shoots up to 96.7, followed by Spain at 95.7 percent and then France at 95 percent. This makes Spain one of the world’s leading consumers of UHT milk. 

READ ALSO: Why does France give a gift of three cows to Spain every year?

David Alonso, head of the dairy sector of Unión de Uniones, believes that this higher consumption of UHT milk is down to several reasons – cultural diet and level of production from the cows.

The taste of the milk depends on what the cows eat. Photo: Luís Cardoso / Unsplash

“The first explanation that there is is cultural,” he explained in an interview with The Objective. “In Europe, a lot of butter is consumed, so the important thing is to remove the cream from the milk for the butter”.

The fresher milk, therefore, is used for butter or other dairy products such as cheese, while the UHT milk is used for drinking. 

There are also various other hypotheses as to why Spaniards drink more UHT milk and far less fresh milk. Some experts believe it’s a combination of the hot weather and small living spaces with small refrigerators. Both make it harder to store more fresh milk, but a lot easier to store long-life cartons of UHT. 

UHT milk tastes different too

But it’s not just the fact that they use UHT milk here in Spain as to why it tastes different, but Spanish UHT also tastes different to the UHT milk you’ll find in other EU countries.

This is because the amount of fat and protein in Spanish milk is lower than the European average According to Eurostat data.

Alonso also points out that the composition and therefore the taste of milk depends on whether the cows are fed with grass or concentrated feed. In addition, in Spain, he explains that the number of litres produced by a cow is usually higher than in other countries, so the density is lower.

But it also comes down to what you’re used to, Spaniards are so used to drinking their version of UHT milk, that to them, this is the normal taste of milk and it’s the fresh stuff that tastes different. 

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MONEY

Blackrock and Blackstone: The ‘unknown’ multinationals controlling Spain

Two American multinational investment companies with similarly forgettable names are tightening their grip on Spain's housing market, banks and industry, even though most Spaniards have never heard of them.

Blackrock and Blackstone: The 'unknown' multinationals controlling Spain

Blackrock is the world’s biggest financial investor. It’s so big in fact that it has upwards of 9 trillion in assets spread across the globe, roughly equivalent to the GDP of Germany, France and Italy combined. For context, that would take the Spanish economy around six years to produce.

The company’s footprint in Spain is no smaller, however, and it’s growing. Blackrock has interests all over the Spanish economy, whether it be in energy companies, stakes in its major banks, or the properties it owns. Critics fear this level (and breadth) of influence has an impact on decision making that can indirectly affect Spaniards in all walks of life.

For example, Blackrock has a 5 percent share (or more) in Santander, BBVA and Caixabank, Spain’s three major banks. This means that any loans or mortgages there could, in theory, be impacted by Blackrock – a foreign company with no connection to Spain besides investing there.

Blackrock also has a significant share (of up to 20 percent) in Naturgy, the Spanish energy company.

It also has shares in 19 of the IBEX 35 companies (Spain’s equivalent of the FTSE index). What’s slightly different about the Naturgy move is that Blackrock will be on the company’s board, something that hasn’t happened yet in many of its other Spanish investments, and would likely signal a change in its approach to investments in Spain.

All in all, it is estimated that Blackrock has invested as much as €60 billion in the Spanish economy. But at what cost? Investment firms, let alone one of the world’s biggest like Blackrock, don’t part with money without expecting anything in return.

So, how is it controlling Spain?

Controlling Spain

Some feel that Blackrock, as well as other shadowy investment firms such as Blackstone (more on them below) leverage their investment for their interest — often to the cost of Spaniards.

In an article for El Salto, Carlos Martín Urriza, Economy and Finance spokesman for Sumar, posed the following questions:

“Is the fact that Spanish banks have not increased the remuneration of household savings with the rise in interest rates – as has happened in Europe – but have increased the cost of their mortgages, and nothing effective has been done to correct this, related to the fact that Blackrock has a 5 percent or more stake in Santander, BBVA and Caixabank?”

He goes on: “Is the fact that the profits of Spanish electricity and energy companies far exceed those of their European counterparts connected to Blackrock’s holdings of more than 5 percent in Enagás, Iberdrola and Repsol?”

Urriza’s argument is essentially that owing to the profit-motive driving Blackrock and other big funds, as well as the pressure applied by them, their influence makes gas and electricity bills, as well as things like mortgages, loans, house prices and rents more expensive. When these companies are so big and have their fingers in so many pies, it’s hard to see how to stop them.

However, the Spanish government has flexed its muscles in recent weeks with regards to takeovers, largely through the SEPI (Sociedad Estatal de Participaciones Industriales) as it did with the recent proposed Telefónica takeover.

READ ALSO: Spain takes stake in Telefonica after Saudi deal concerns

Members of the anti-eviction entity Platform of People Affected by Mortgage (PAH) protest against mortgage debt in front of The Hesperia Ramblas hotel, owned by US private equity group Blackstone, on July 30, 2019 in Barcelona. (Photo by Josep LAGO / AFP)

The biggest private landlords in Spain?

Housing has become a big issue in Spain in recent years. With rents rocketing in the post-pandemic period and an influx of foreign remote workers further pricing out locals, affordable housing and price speculation have become a hot political issue.

There’s another American investment giant called Blackstone (often confused with Blackrock) which secretly dominate the property market in Spain. In fact, Blackstone is the second biggest landlord in the entire country after Caixa Bank.

Blackstone, through 27 subsidiary companies, has 19,600 homes for rent, of which 13,000 are in the Madrid region alone, where it is “the largest private landlord” in the city, according to Civio.

Some argue its Spain’s biggest property owner, having carried out more than 146,000 property purchases over the past decade.

With calls for deep and meaningful housing reform in Spain (not that the government hasn’t tried) will any government or bank be able to realistically do anything when financial investment firms worth more than entire countries can pull the strings? 

Over the past few years, tenants renting Blackstone flats in Madrid have faced rent hikes of up to 60 percent and evictions for those who can’t afford it.

Blackstone general director in Spain Fernando Bautista has denied that his company is a vulture fund, recently declaring “at the end of the day, we have been investing in the country for 10 years, both in real estate and infrastructure or other sectors within the business we do. We are not a speculative fund as we have been here for more than ten years, we are an investment fund”.

Now Blackrock is also preparing to enter the residential market in Spain. This was made clear by Adolfo Favieres, Managing Director of real estate at Blackrock, at an event in January.

The executive stated that the investment fund has its eyes set on the “living” and “flex-living” market. “It is the one we like the most, both flex living (co-living) and student residences,” he said.

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