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FOOD AND DRINK

France’s national fast food: What exactly are ‘French tacos’?

If you're from the north American continent, you are probably familiar with the (traditionally Mexican) taco - but in France you will meet 'French tacos', a different beast entirely.

France's national fast food: What exactly are 'French tacos'?
People have lunch at a fast-food restaurant on October 23, 2014 in Villeneuve d'Ascq, northern France. (Photo by PHILIPPE HUGUEN / AFP)

If you walk the streets of any French city or large town, you will likely stumble upon a fast-food restaurant called O’Tacos. But if you are expecting to be able to order a delicious Mexican al pastor taco with salsa verde, you will find yourself sorely disappointed.

As staff writer for the New Yorker, Lauren Collins wrote in 2021, “French tacos are tacos like chicken fingers are fingers”. In fact, one Mexican chef in Paris told Collins that she once had a customer “throw his order in the trash, saying it wasn’t a taco”.

French tacos (always spelled in the plural sense) are a popular and distinct fast food in France, often decried by health experts as highly caloric – an average French tacos clocks in at about 1,348 calories, and an XXL can run up to 2,300, above the recommended daily total caloric intake for an adult woman.

What many imagine when thinking of a taco is the traditional Mexican food, eaten by hand, which consists of a small corn or wheat tortilla filled with meat, beans and/or vegetables, topped with condiments like salsa or guacamole.

In contrast, the French taco is a flour tortilla filled with meat, sauce, and French fries, folded together and grilled to build a panini-burrito-kebab mélange. You can add plenty of other ingredients inside too – from cheese to turkey bacon. Most French tacos are halal-certified to accommodate Muslim customers – so do not contain pork.

The biggest chain is the strangely named O’Tacos – France is home to 300 O’Tacos restaurants – an amount that has doubled in the last five years, as French tacos continue to pick up popularity among the youth.

And you are not limited to O’Tacos for your French taco needs – plenty of smaller fast-food shops and chains across the country, particularly those selling kebabs and those that remain open late into the night – offer French tacos too.

The origins of French tacos

There are various claims regarding the origins of French tacos – or whether there is a single inventor of the fast food at all – but many point to the diverse suburbs of France’s gastronomy capital, Lyon. 

In a documentary by Bastien Gens, titled ‘Tacos Origins’, claimed that French fast food was created toward the end of the 1990s and the beginning of the 2000s in Lyon suburbs of Villeurbanne and Vaulx-en-Velin. 

According to Collins, the “earliest innovators of the French tacos were probably snack proprietors of North African descent in the Lyonnais suburbs.

However, some claim that the concept originated in Grenoble first, which is also the site of the first O’Tacos restaurant, opened in 2007 by a former construction worker, Patrick Pelonero, who told Collins he had never visited Mexico but simply enjoyed eating French tacos on his lunch breaks.

Tacos’ popularity 

One thing is certain – French tacos, typically priced around €5.50 are distinctly French.

In an interview with Vanity Fair, Loïc Bienassis, a member of the European Institute of Food History and Cultures, said that: “For decades, France has been an inherently urban, industrial, and culturally diverse country. The French taco is a mutant product of this country. It is its own national junk food.”

In the past few years, French tacos’ popularity has spread beyond the l’Hexagone – to Morocco, Belgium and even the United States.

The sandwich has become so trendy in France that some even refer to traditional Mexican tacos as a “taco mexicain” to differentiate between the two.

In 2021, over 80 million French tacos were consumed in France, making it more popular than the hamburger and the kebab.

In the same year, French youth also took to social media, joining in an O’Tacos challenge #Gigatacos. The goal was to consume a giant French tacos, weighing in at 2kg. Anyone who succeeded would be automatically refunded. Videos of the challenge coursed through French social media networks, with several million views.

While France is known for its classic cuisine, which relies heavily on fresh ingredients, the country also has a history of loving fast food, so it may come as little surprise that it would invent its own highly caloric dish.

As of 2019, France was home to the second biggest market for McDonald’s per head of population after the United States. 

READ MORE: Krispy Kreme, Popeyes, Five Guys: the American fast-food chains taking on France

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FRANCE EXPLAINED

EXPLAINED: Who are France’s ‘dames pipi’?

You may have noticed that public restrooms in French railway stations are usually pretty clean, and you can thank this group of workers for that.

EXPLAINED: Who are France’s ‘dames pipi’?

Who are the ‘dames pipi’?

They are the people – mainly women – who run and maintain public lavatories in major towns and cities in France, notably those at railway stations. In English we might call them ‘restroom attendants’.

They collect any fees from customers, maintain and clean facilities – which may include showers as well as toilets – ensure that these areas are properly stocked with toilet paper and soap, and may sell additional hygiene products as necessary.

France’s restroom attendants have been in the news recently after a petition was launched following the dismissal of one attendant at the Montparnasse rail station. She was reportedly dismissed because she accepted a €1 tip from a customer.

At the time of writing, the petition – calling for the worker’s reinstatement, and her salary backdated – had nearly 34,000 signatures.

How long has France had ‘dames pipi’?

Well over a century. Marcel Proust mentioned one in his novel À la recherche du temps perdu. They are, however, much less common these days, and you’ll really only see staffed public conveniences in areas of heavy tourism, or at larger railway stations.

These days, restroom attendants earn minimum wage in France.

Should we boycott SNCF, then?

It wasn’t them, although the loo in question was at Montparnasse. The service is run and maintained by a company called 2theloo.

So, we shouldn’t tip them?

Good question. Restroom attendants used to be able to accept tips to supplement their wages, but the firm that the woman worked for insists that these gratuities are not to be kept personally.

That’s why she was dismissed, according to media reports. It’s probably advisable not to tip to avoid a similar incident, or at least to ask before tipping.

Hang on, though… Isn’t the term ‘dame pipi’ offensive?

Yes it is. Many people nowadays see it as highly disrespectful, reductive, and about 50 years out of date. It’s very much a colloquial term that’s rooted in the past. But it still appears in the press – maybe because it fits a headline. And then we have to explain what one is, and why the term is offensive.

More formally, and on any job descriptions, employees who carry out this sort of work are referred to as an agent d’accueil et d’entretien – reception and maintenance worker.

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