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COST OF LIVING

Easter eggs galore: inflation no damper for French with sweet tooth

Stepping out of a chocolate shop in France's capital, 90-year-old Maurice Ryffel said price hikes were not going to get in the way of him enjoying some Easter eggs.

Chocolatier
A chocolatier making Easter eggs in Bordeaux, France. Photo: JEAN-PIERRE MULLER / AFP)

“It’s Easter. Might as well treat myself,” he said.

Albert Fitoussi, a 35-year-old restaurant manager, had also stocked up on locally made fine chocolates ahead of the Easter weekend.

“I don’t really look at the prices,” he said.

Consumers in France, like much of Europe, are grappling with food price hikes after the Covid pandemic and Russia’s invasion of Ukraine last year.

But French chocolate makers are optimistic that enough people have a sweet tooth for Easter egg sales to be good this weekend.

“We’re quite confident,” said Gilles Rouviere, secretary-general of the chocolate making syndicate.

He said he was sure each family could find eggs and bunnies to suit their budget among the wide array on offer.

Chocolate prices in February jumped by more than 10 percent year on year, according to the INSEE statistics institute.

Sweets were 12 percent more expensive, while ice cream cost 14 percent more.

At his upscale chocolate shop in Paris, Pierre-Benoit Sucheyre told AFP he had changed the ingredients in some of his creations “to keep the same prices as last year”.

For example, he has replaced an Iranian pistachio praline with a peanut filling, he said.

READ ALSO: The French words you need to understand France’s cost of living crisis

Sweets ‘still affordable’

Beyond Easter chocolate, statistics seem to indicate ice cream sales will continue unhampered too.

On a sunny day in Paris, Ousmane Anegble, 36, and his son were about to dig in to ice cream cones.

“The sun is back,” he said.

As for sweets, “even if they are more expensive, you don’t really realise as they’re not part of daily expenses” on other items such as meat or vegetables, he added.

Ice cream makers in France say almost three percent more families bought the frozen delicacy in France last year than the previous.

Sales of sweets were up by 5 percent, while people bought two percent more biscuits, the NielsenIQ sales tracker says.

Not far off, Christine Pollet, 73, had bought her grandson sweets.

“I didn’t look at the price,” she said.

Jean-Philippe Andre, the head of the French branch of German sweet maker Haribo, said sales had picked up after the initial blow of the Covid-19 pandemic to reach the same level as 2016 by the end of 2022.

Sweets “are a treat that is still affordable,” he said.

Fizzy drinks are also still popular.

Suntory Beverage & Food France last year boosted its sales by 11 percent, its director Pierre Decroix said.

They are “products that you can treat yourself to for less than a euro,” he said.

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FOOD AND DRINK

French restaurant diners divided over tips by card

Restaurants across France are increasingly offering diners the option to include a tip as part of the card payment process, especially since the government introduced a tax exemption on this form of gratuity - however the changes are not universally popular.

French restaurant diners divided over tips by card

Adding a tip (known as une pourboire) if you’re paying by cash is a fairly simple process – just leave a few coins on the table or tell your server to keep the change.

However as more and more people are paying by card, card payment terminals are being equipped with the facility to prompt the addition of a tip at the point of payment – giving the diner the option to add 2 percent, five percent, 10 percent or no tip before they tap their card or type in their PIN.

Customers in France tend to have less cash in their wallets – in 2021, according to a study by the Institut CSA, 35 percent of French people said they never carried cash. As a result, the habit of leaving a few coins or a  banknote on the table in recognition of a server’s attention is becoming increasingly rare.

Since January 2022, the government has exempted card-paid tips from tax, bringing them into line with cash gratuities, and has recently extended the exemption to the end of this year.

But while the idea of a tip option for card-paying diners may seem logical given the increasingly common use of cards to pay bills, anecdotal evidence suggests that customers and restaurateurs remain to be convinced, with many seeing it as a form of pressure to leave a tip.

READ ALSO How much should you tip in France?

“The waitress put the terminal under my nose and told me I could pay €1, €2, €5 – or another amount. It was a bit unpleasant, you feel obliged. In the end, I refused,” one diner told Le Parisien recently.

“In general, I prefer cash. At least I’m sure that the money I give ends up in the server’s pocket,” another said.

Servers, however, apparently lean in favour of the system. One told the newspaper that her monthly tips had jumped from €100 to €300.

But she admitted that French diners were more likely to complain about the imposition. “It’s easier with foreign tourists, who seem to be used to this system,” she said.

For Franck Chaumes, president of the catering branch of the Union des métiers et des industries de l’hôtellerie (Umih), this reluctance among French customers may be explained by the fact that, “it can give the impression that you’re paying more for your meal than the advertised price”.

In France service is included in the bill, so there is no obligation to tip. People who do wish to leave a little extra as a thank-you for good service usually give just a few euro or round up their bill.

The French word for tip literally means ‘for a drink’ – pour boire – and was originally seen as giving the server the price of a drink for themselves.  

According to Umih figures, most of the 200,000 restaurants and bars in France are still not equipped to take tax-free tip payments. And take-up among customers still looks slow.

Some restaurateurs are resistant, too. Recently, Stéphane Manigold, head of the Éclore group which operates eight Parisian restaurants, sent a memo to employees closing the the door on tipping incentives on card terminals. 

“It’s imperative that the payment experience remains simple, transparent and pressure-free, in line with our service standards”, says the entrepreneur.

If you’re uncomfortable with adding a tip at the card machine you can always just leave no tip, or refuse the tip option on the card reader and leave some coins on the table.

Likewise, in restaurants that don’t have the tip option on the card reader, you can always round up your bill and ask the waiter to put that amount on the card reader – for example if your bill comes to €31.70 you might ask the waiter to put €35 on the card reader.

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