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Let’s waltz! Vienna ball season back in full swing

After Covid restrictions had wiped out Vienna's glamorous winter ball season for two years in a row, 50-year-old Wahyuni couldn't wait any longer to get all dolled up and put on her dazzling floral-patterned ballgown to once again waltz the night away.

Attendees take part in the opening of the 99th Flower Ball at the City Hall in Vienna
Attendees take part in the opening of the 99th Flower Ball at the City Hall in Vienna on January 13, 2023. After Covid restrictions wiped out Vienna's glamorous winter ball season for two years in a row, the Vienna ball is back in full swing. (Photo by Alex HALADA / AFP)

“We love to come here, because the very nice decorations are made out of real flowers and it’s very lovely,” Wahyuni said, alongside her friend Deasy, who declined to give their full names, as both were attending the legendary Flower Ball in Vienna’s neo-Gothic city hall.

Admiring the riot of colours, 46-year-old Deasy, who originally hails from Indonesia, said that she had already been here a few years ago and “had to come back”.

Known for being one of the most beautifully decorated winter balls among the approximately 450 hosted in the Austrian capital each season, the Flower Ball showcases mesmerising floral arrangements skilfully crafted out of 100,000 blossoms.

People attend the opening of the 99th Flower Ball at the City Hall in Vienna on January 13, 2023. (Photo by Alex HALADA / AFP)

Donning snow-white dresses and classy black evening suits, four first-time debutants said they were “quite nervous” about opening the ball.

“I think it is so beautifully decorated, and that makes me super happy,” 18-year-old Eduard Wernisch said.

The self-described “rookies” said they had attended dance classes for a couple of hours every week since September to be prepared.

The rhythm of the waltz can be tricky and 17-year-old classmate Emma said she was particularly afraid of dropping her flower bouquet.

Attendees dance during the opening of the 99th Flower Ball at the City Hall in Vienna on January 13, 2023. (Photo by Alex HALADA / AFP)

“People come here with the expectation of experiencing spring” as opposed to the grey, foggy winters so prevalent in Vienna, Peter Hucik, art director of the Flower Ball told AFP.

Even though the ball is not sold out, Hucik said he is pleased that 2,400 visitors are attending Friday’s ball, kicking off the season as one of Vienna’s first big balls.

Most successful season 

The Covid-related shutdown of Vienna’s famous ball season had caused the city to lose at least 152 million euros ($164 million) in revenue per year.

This season, however, appeared to be on track to become one of Vienna’s most successful ever recorded.

Attendees take part in the opening of the 99th Flower Ball at the City Hall in Vienna on January 13, 2023.  (Photo by Alex HALADA / AFP)

“The season is making a roaring comeback,” Markus Griessler, chairman of the tourism and leisure division of the Vienna Chamber of Commerce, said.

Griessler said he expects the city to rake in “170 million” euros this season.

“Every third Viennese aged 15 and older is planning to attend a ball this year,” compared to only one in four in 2019, he added, noting that “550,000 sold tickets” are within reach.

About one tenth of the ballgoers each year come especially from abroad. On average every ballgoer spends around 320 euros per ball.

Too close for comfort

There are “exciting parallels” between Vienna’s ball season and travelling in general, Norbert Kettner, director of the city’s tourist office told AFP, when asked about why balls remained a top priority.

Attendees dance during the opening of the 99th Flower Ball at the City Hall in Vienna on January 13, 2023. (Photo by Alex HALADA / AFP)

“Clearly, people insist on travelling and dancing,” said Kettner while emphasising the city’s age-old tradition of hosting such events.

The tradition dates back to the 18th century, when the balls of the Habsburg royal court ceased to be reserved for the aristocracy alone.

The Viennese began adopting court customs for their own soirees, soon launching balls dedicated to hunters, cafe owners and florists.

The Viennese used the opportunity to approach the opposite sex, and lavishly wine, dine, spy and dance.

“The Viennese ball season and the waltz had always been a thorn in the side of the Catholic Church,” Kettner said, because “waltzing was too close for comfort”.

Therefore the famous ball season “loosely follows the Christian calendar and wraps up before Ash Wednesday,” he added.

Thousands will earn their living in the flourishing sector, from hotels, restaurants and hairdressers to those fashioning evening wear.

All businesses were as excited as the revellers to gear up and make this season a success.

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EXPLAINED: How will Austria’s new ‘federal museum card’ work?

Vienna has some beautiful but expensive museums, and the federal government now wants to make culture more accessible with a new yearly ticket covering its main capital museums.

EXPLAINED: How will Austria's new 'federal museum card' work?

While visiting a museum can be extremely cheap or even free in some countries, Austria has some expensive exhibitions. Some of the country’s best museums, such as the National History or the Albertina, for example, cost almost €20.

It becomes more affordable if you buy yearly tickets, which are often worth it from the third visit on, but it does limit the number of times Austrians go to museums — or at least the variety of the visits — if you buy one or two yearly tickets.

With that in mind, Austria’s federal government introduced a new “Federal Museum Card” this week, which will allow the holder unlimited visits without restriction to all federal museums making cultural exploration more affordable and accessible.

READ ALSO: One day in Vienna – How to spend 24 hours in the Austrian capital

How much will it cost and how can I buy it?

According to the Austrian Secretary for Culture, the federal museum card (Bundesmuseencard) will be sold for €99 a year. It will be valid from July 1st when anyone can buy them online or in the participating museums.

For comparison, a yearly ticket for Mumok Museum costs €22, while for Albertina, it costs €78. 

Isn’t there something similar already in Austria?

Sort of. There was a previous federal museum card sold since 2018, but this only offered one admission to each museum for €66 a year. In 2023, 7,700 of these cards were sold, Der Standard reported.

The new card is a significant upgrade from its predecessor. State Secretary for Culture Andrea Mayer (Greens) described it as a “genuine yearly ticket”, offering unlimited access to all federal museums, a stark contrast to the previous card which only allowed one admission to each museum. 

The older version will be phased out as cards expire.

READ ALSO: Eight unique Austrian museums you need to visit

Which museums are included?

You can visit all the federal museums in Vienna with the card: Kunsthistorisches Museum, Naturhistorisches Museum, Albertina, Belvedere, Museum moderner Kunst (Mumok), Technisches Museum, Museum für angewandte Kunst (Mak) plus the Austrian National Library. The card is valid for regular and special exhibitions and whenever the museums are open. 

Additionally, the idea is to incentivise spontaneous short visits. Cardholders can breeze through a “fast lane” without queuing at the counter; no prior bookings are necessary, enhancing the overall museum experience.

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