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CLIMATE CRISIS

How heatwaves have battered Spain’s mussel harvests

"There's nothing left here," sighs Javier Franch as he shakes the heavy rope of mussels he's just pulled to the surface in northeastern Spain. They are all dead.

How heatwaves have battered Spain's mussel harvests
With the country hit by a long and brutal heatwave this summer, the water temperature in the Ebro Delta, the main shellfish production area of the Spanish Mediterranean, is touching 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit). And any grower who hasn't removed their molluscs in time will have lost everything. (Photo by Pau BARRENA / AFP)

With the country hit by a long and brutal heatwave this summer, the water temperature in the Ebro Delta, the main mussels production area of the Spanish Mediterranean, is touching 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit).

And any grower who hasn’t removed their molluscs in time will have lost everything.

But that’s not the worst of it: most of next year’s crop has also died in one of the most intense marine heatwaves in the Spanish Mediterranean.

By the end of July, experts said the western Mediterranean was experiencing an “exceptional” marine heatwave, with persistently hotter-than-normal temperatures posing a threat to the entire marine ecosystem.

“The high temperatures have cut short the season,” says Franch, 46, who has spent almost three decades working for the firm founded by his father, which has seen production fall by a quarter this year.

The relentless sun has heated up the mix of fresh and saltwater along Catalonia’s delicate coastal wetlands where the River Ebro flows into the Mediterranean.

On a scorching summer morning in Deltebre, one of the municipalities of the Delta, the mussel rafts — long wooden structures with ropes attached which can each grow up to 20 kilograms (44 pounds) of mussels — should be teeming with workers hurrying around during the busy season.

But there is hardly any movement.

“We lost the yield that was left, which wasn’t much, because we were working to get ahead so we wouldn’t go through this,” explains Carles Fernandez, who advises the Ebro Delta’s Federation of Mollusc Producers (Fepromodel).

“But the problem is that we’ve lost the young stock for next year and we’ll have quite a high cost overrun.”

Fishermen extract Pacific oysters bunches in a farm structure on the open sea off the coast near Deltebre, south of Tarragona, on August 10th, 2022. (Photo by Pau BARRENA / AFP)

Millions in losses

The heat has wiped out 150 tonnes of commercial mussels and 1,000 tonnes of young stock in the Delta, initial estimates suggest.

And producers are calculating their losses at over one million euros ($1,000,000) given they will now have to buy young molluscs from Italy or Greece for next year.

“When you have a week when temperatures are higher than 28C, there can be some mortality, but this summer it has lasted almost a month and a half,” with peak temperatures of almost 31C, says Fepromodel head Gerardo Bonet.

Normally, the Ebro Delta’s two bays produce around 3,500 tonnes of mussels, and 800 tonnes of oysters, making Catalonia Spain’s second-largest producer, although it remains far behind the output of Galicia, the northwestern region on the colder Atlantic coast.

For years now, the harvest in the Delta has been brought forward, cutting short a season that once ran from April to August.

‘Tropical’ Mediterranean

Hit by coastal erosion and a lack of sediment supply, the rich ecosystem of the Ebro Delta — a biosphere reserve and one of the most important wetlands of the western Mediterranean — is particularly vulnerable to climate change.

And this extreme summer, when Spain endured 42 days of heatwave — a record three times the average over the past decade, the AEMET national forecaster says — has also left its mark below the surface of the water.

“Some marine populations which are unable to cope with temperatures as high as these over a long period of time are going to suffer what we call mass mortality,” says marine biologist Emma Cebrian of the Spanish National Research Council (CISC).

Spanish Mediterranean mussel producer Javier Franch shows dead Mediterranean mussel seeds in a farm structure on the open sea off the coast near Deltebre, south of Tarragona. (Photo by Pau BARRENA / AFP)

“Imagine a forest, it’s like 60 or 80 percent of the trees dying, with the resulting impact on its associated biodiversity,” she says.

The succession of heatwaves on land has generated another at sea which — pending analysis of all the data in November — may turn out to be “the worst” in this area of the Mediterranean since records began in the 1980s.

Although marine heatwaves are not a new phenomenon, they are becoming more extreme with increasingly dire consequences.

“If we compare it with a wildfire, one can have an impact, but if you keep having them, it will probably mean the affected populations are not able to recuperate,” Cebrian said.

Experts say the Mediterranean is becoming “tropicalised”, and mollusc grower Franch is struck by the mounting evidence as his boat glides between empty mussel rafts in a bay without a breath of wind.

He is mulling an increase in his production of oysters, which are more resistant to high temperatures, but which currently represent just 10 percent of his output.

But he hopes it will help ensure his future in a sector that employs 800 people directly or indirectly in the Ebro Delta.

“(The sector) is under threat because climate change is a reality and what we are seeing now will happen again,” he says worriedly.

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FOOD AND DRINK

FACT CHECK: Is alcohol still cheap in Spain?

UK tabloids are quoting "horrified" British tourists who are threatening to not go back to Spain because booze is apparently expensive now. So is there any truth to the claims that alcohol in Spain is no longer cheap?

FACT CHECK: Is alcohol still cheap in Spain?

Spain has long been favoured as a holiday destination for northern Europeans, not only because of its great weather and excellent beaches, but also its cheap alcohol, which helped transform some of its resorts into the top party spots on the continent.

Many northern Europeans can hardly believe it when they discover that a bottle of wine from a supermarket in Spain costs just a couple of euros and buying a beer at a local bar can be around the same.

But, the cost of living has soared in Spain over the last couple of years and according to Spanish consumer watchdog OCU food and drink products have risen by around 38 percent in the last three years.

Recently, British tabloid paper The Mirror published a report on the rising prices in Spain, particularly for alcoholic drinks, stating that Brits were “horrified” at the “booze price hikes” in popular resorts with some saying that it has gotten so expensive that they won’t be returning.

According to one couple interviewed for the article, they paid €10 for a gin and tonic and €12 for a large glass of white wine.

But is it true, has alcohol become so expensive in Spain that it’s no longer affordable like it once was, and how much can you expect to pay on your next holiday here?

Firstly, it really depends where you are, it goes without saying that drinks in more touristy areas and beach resorts are going to be much higher than elsewhere. Likewise, if you’re right in the centre of Barcelona on the Rambla for example, you’ll be paying a lot more than in other neighbourhoods.

It also depends on what type of alcohol you’re buying of course. Here, we look at some of the most popular alcoholic drinks and find out if they are still cheap or not. 

READ ALSO: Spaniards are the OECD’s third biggest consumers of cocaine and alcohol

Beer

Spain’s National Statistics Institute (INE), revealed recently that the price of beer increased by 9.73 percent between the beginning of 2023 to the beginning of 2024.

Despite the price hikes in Spain, however, the latest data from price comparison website Numbeo, shows that we still have some of the cheapest beer in the whole of Europe. It discovered that two of the most affordable European capitals for a beer were in Lisbon and Madrid, where a 0.5 litre beer in a restaurant costs between €2.50 and €3 on average.

But what about within Spain itself? Of course, the prices can vary wildly depending on where you are. According the Diario Vasco newspaper, who interviewed 1,500 bartenders across the country, here’s what a beer will cost you in different areas of the country.

Ibiza: €8.50 for a San Miguel (14 for a standard 12oz bottle of Alhambra in a nightclub)
Marbella: €15 for 12oz bottle in Puerto Banús
San Sebastián: €3.50 for a standard bottle in the centre (€2.30 in the Larratxo neighbourhood; €2.40 in Egia)
Bilbao: €2.60-2.80 (€2.50 in the Old Town)
Vitoria i Gasteiz, Basque Country: €2.80
Pamplona: €3.50 (centre)
Logroño, La Rioja: €1.80
Gijón, Asturias: €2.60 (in the centre)
Santander: €1.80
Ourense, Galicia: €1.95-2.20
Barcelona: €2.50-4.70 (€6 in a hotel with sea views)
Lleida, Catalonia: €2.40
Palma de Mallorca: 2.80
Menorca: €2.70-3.50
Valencia: €4.50 in a five-star hotel
Benicàssim: €2.80 in a hotel
Madrid: €1.80-2 (€6-8 in hotels / €5 in the Salamanca neighbourhood)
Málaga: €3 in the port area (€2.30 in the centre)
Jerez de la Frontera, Cádiz: €1.50
Seville: €1-1.90 for a small caña
Granada: €2.80 (on draft) / €2.20 for a bottle
Huelva: €1.60 (centre)
Córdoba: €1.20
Almería: €2.5
Salamanca: €1.70 (from a bodega)
Astorga, Castilla y León: €1.70
Cáceres, Extremadura: €1.30-1.50
Burgos, Castilla y León: €1.50
Valladolid, Castilla y León: €1.60
Huesca, Aragón: €1.50-€2
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria: €1.90 

Wine

The latest data shows that the price of wine has also increased by around 10 percent in Spain, this was mainly due to the poor grape harvests in 2023, likely down to the drought which has been plaguing parts of Spain for the last couple of years.

According to a study by travel company Compare My Jet, however, Spain still ranks among the cheapest OECD countries (Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development) to buy a bottle of wine. Spain comes in at number five on their list with an average price of €5.42.

Head to the supermarkets and you’ll find that the shelves are stocked with many bottles that cost a lot less than this too.

When it comes to ordering a glass of wine in a bar or restaurant, wine site Vinetur found that on average you’d pay around €3 per glass. Of course, this may rise to around €5 if you’re at a popular beach resort.

Liquor

According to the INE, the price of liquor in Spain has risen around 7.3 percent within one year, meaning that your cocktails and mixers will also be more expensive.  

Of course, the price can vary a lot, depending on what you mix it with, where you are in Spain and of course the type of establishment – an upmarket hotel or a local bar.

Taxes

When it comes to alcohol, Spaniards are also taxed much less than other Europeans. According to a group of experts hired by the Ministry of Finance, Spain would collect nearly €1 billion more per year if it taxed alcoholic beverages at a tax rate similar to that of the European Union.

From their findings, Spain is the fifth country in the EU (plus the UK) that gains the least money from the tax applied to drinks with an alcohol content of 40 percent or more. It also collects the least amount of tax on beer.

This all means that bars and restaurants can keep the alcohol prices lower than in other EU countries. Overall, there has been a noticeable inflation-driven alcohol price increase in recent years in Spain, but Spain still has better prices than the majority of Western European countries. 

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