SHARE
COPY LINK
For members

TRAIN TRAVEL

‘Something always goes wrong’: What I learned taking the train through Europe with two kids

Travelling from Sweden to the UK and back by train via stops in Denmark, Germany, Belgium and France is no easy feat. But The Local's Richard Orange and his two kids managed to do it. Here's his advice for other travellers hoping to avoid the planes.

'Something always goes wrong': What I learned taking the train through Europe with two kids
Finn Orange (front) and Eira Orange (back), during the family's first father-and-children rail odyssey back in 2017. Photo: Richard Orange

When I stepped bleary-eyed off the train in southern Sweden on Tuesday morning, it marked the end of 24 hours of non-stop train travel through six countries. 

Together with my long-suffering children, Eira, aged 10, and Finn, aged 8, we’d had to deal with two train cancellations, several missed connections, and our sleeper train back to Malmö breaking down in Berlin, forcing us to quickly make other arrangements. 

This marked the third time I’ve done the return trip to the UK by rail, since deciding five years ago that avoiding flights if possible was the easiest way to make a small personal contribution to battling climate change (I still haven’t managed to go veggie). 

So what have I learnt? 

Richard Orange sets off with Eira (10) and Finn (8) on his way back to Sweden from the UK on Monday. Photo: Richard Orange

1. Something almost always goes wrong 

When you are taking four or five long intercity, and often international, train journeys, you can be pretty certain that at least one of your trains will either be delayed or cancelled, leading to a domino effect of missed connections. 

On the way out to the UK, our ICE was delayed, meaning we would miss our Thalys train from Brussels to Paris. (We got around it by taking another Thalys direct from Cologne to Paris, despite lacking a ticket for part of the journey).

And on the way back to Sweden, our ICE from Brussels to Cologne was cancelled, with the guards then sending us off on a series of regional trains, before we gave up and forked out €140 for the Thalys from Liège. 

You can reduce the risk of a domino effect by allowing a comfortable transfer time (at least 30 minutes) between trains. 

On the Deutsche Bahn (DB) website, you can set a minimum transfer time when researching your journey. One of our fellow passengers on Monday said he always allow enough time at each stop to take the next available train and still get his connection (about two hours). 

Screenshot from DB website. Image: Richard Orange

But you also need to be psychologically prepared for the possibility that you won’t make it, that you might need to spend the night somewhere like Cologne, Liège, or Osnabrück, and continue your journey the next day, and is that really so bad?

A German ICE train in Stuttgart, southern Germany. Photo: Thomas Kienzle/AFP

2. Consider getting an Interrail ticket (even for a single round-trip) 

If you order about three months in advance, it is possible to get long-distance Deutsche Bahn tickets quite cheaply, with a one-way ticket from Malmö to Brussels going for about €50. You can then (if you are lucky and booking at least three months in advance) get a Eurostar to London for around €45. This means you can do the round trip for under €200. 

However, getting tickets this cheaply means being both flexible and carefully watching Deutsche Bahn’s website. Children aged 6 to 14 travel for free in Germany if accompanying their own parents or grandparents. 

For €246, you can get an Interrail ticket allowing you to travel four days in one month, or for €335, seven days in one month. And If you order an Interrail ticket for one adult, you can get Interrail tickets for two children for free. 

The advantage of travelling on an Interrail ticket is that if something goes wrong, you can hop on the next train without needing to talk to any rail staff or visit a ticket office.

The new Railplanner app, once you’ve got the hang of it, is also very convenient, allowing you to just show a QR code at the guard on most trains, and even at the gates at stations. The only drawback is that if you want to or need to reserve seats, you still have to do that on the interrail.eu website. 

If like me, you intend to travel around quite a lot in your destination country, it almost certainly pays for itself. 

3. You need to improvise 

When the trains across Europe are a real mess, as they seem to be at the moment, I have found train guards quite tolerant of people jumping on trains without having exactly the right ticket if they need to make a connection. Particularly if you have another ticket from DB, they often let you travel. 

If you’ve got an Interrail ticket, you’ve got even more flexibility, although it can be hard to book seat reservations on the Thalys (necessary) and some ICE trains (normally not necessary) at late notice. 

The Thalys often seems to sell out of reservations that can be used with an Interrail pass, meaning you need to pay full price. Having said this, on my way out to the UK, I saw people jump on the Thalys with no reservation or ticket at all, and none were made to pay. The staff even gave them advice on making the Eurostar to the UK. 

When things go awry, you will probably find yourself linking up with other long-distance train travellers in the same situation, all trying to solve the same puzzle. It’s worth identifying who knows what they’re talking about and listening to their advice. 

The DB Navigator app kept well up to date on which trains are on time and which are delayed, meaning you can often second-guess the guards, who I’m afraid don’t always know what they’re talking about. 

4. Get help from rail staff and staff in the ticket office 

The excellent Seat61 website, managed by the former British Rail station manager Mark Smith, recommends that if your train is delayed, you should first get your ticket endorsed by staff on the delayed train or at the interchange station when you arrive, and then approach staff working for the operator of the next train you want to get. 

Under the International Convention for the transportation of Passengers (CIV), if you have a through ticket all the way to your final destination, if a delayed or cancelled train means you miss your connections, you have the right to free tickets on later trains. This, however, doesn’t always apply if your ticket is split between more than one company (for example with two DB ICE trains and one Thalys train). 

If the delay or cancellation means you can’t get to your destination that day, the rail company involved (in my case normally DB) is also supposed to arrange a hotel for you close to the last station you end up in. 

5. Don’t expect decent internet 

One of the things that makes replacing flights with trains for long journeys across Europe bearable, or even enjoyable, is the internet. When you have a good internet connection, you can get as much work done in a day’s travelling as you would in the office. 

The only problem is that on Europe’s trains, you rarely do get a good connection. I have found the on-board wifi too slow on trains to be able to work effectively. On the train at home in Sweden, so long as there’s mobile phone coverage, there’s usually no problem. In Germany, though, the mobile internet is often so ropy that you can’t use that either. 

This also means that if you are planning on keeping children entertained by hooking them up to a laptop, tablet or phone, you might run into problems. So it’s worth downloading some films or cartoons at home before you leave so that they can be played offline. 

6. Pack as lightly as possible

As you are quite likely to end up sprinting between platforms and up and down station stairs to get a connection, you really don’t want to be heaving around a heavy suitcase, so if at all possible, limit yourself either to a rucksack or backpack or to the smaller type of wheeled luggage. 

7. Consider splashing out on a proper meal in the ICE restaurant 

The restaurant cars in some of the ICE trains are extremely civilised, with starched white table cloths, proper cutlery, decent wines, and food you’d be happy to get in a mid-range German restaurant. At €15 to €20 for a main course, it’s not particularly cheap, but it’s a lot better value than the junk food you’ll be able to grab rushing through stations during your transfers.   

Eira and Finn Orange asleep on the DSB train to Copenhagen. Photo: Richard Orange

8. Children are surprisingly resilient (at least mine are) 

Before I started putting my children through a gruelling 24-hour journey at least once a year, almost invariably involving a succession of stressful mishaps, I would have expected tantrums and breakdowns.

Mine do grumble, saying things like, “Dad, we should have gone on a plane,” or, “this is so boring”, but they also appreciate the unlimited screen time.

And as we wandered around Hamburg station at close to midnight on Monday searching for somewhere open to buy food and dodging the homeless drug addicts, they almost seemed to be enjoying themselves.

It’s quite rare to spend that amount of time so close to your children, and even to find time for the occasional round of Uno. I suspect that the memories of our trips back to the UK are something we’ll all treasure. 

Member comments

  1. I guess the difference between us is that i would love to take the train, and i will when some form of competence is in place. What other form of travel would cancel passage, and then leave it completely up to you to figure out a recovery plan. NO other form of transport would survive with such poor service, yet people continue to support the trains. Fix it and then they will come

  2. All good advice based on my experience of having to travel around Europe for work. You can count on one mishap during any journey, which is sometime small and other times colossal. And the key to overcoming the obstacle is to always remain flexible. You can prevent some problems by never getting on (or off) a train by verifying with other passengers that it’s the right train or station.

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.
For members

TRAIN TRAVEL

Six exceptionally scenic train rides to take in Germany

Want to take a train trip in Germany but don't know where to start? Here are our top picks for beautiful rail routes across Germany – just grab a ticket and climb aboard.

Six exceptionally scenic train rides to take in Germany

From the Rhine River Valley to Mainz

Extending most of the way down Germany’s western side, is an extensive train route connecting the Rhine River Valley to the Black Forest to Switzerland. 

But you don’t need to leave the Rhine Valley to experience one of the route’s more scenic sections. 

Starting in Cologne, this railway follows the Rhine River south. The picturesque part of this ride begins just past Koblenz and continues through the dramatic Rhine Gorge on to Mainz. This section offers views of castles on hill tops and quaint river-side villages.

To be sure you catch those river valley views, make sure that you take a train with stops in Bonn and Koblenz on its way to Mainz. As opposed to the non-stop train to Frankfurt that a navigator app may suggest.

The entire route from Cologne to Mainz takes nearly two hours on a fast ICE train. The section from Koblenz to Mainz takes 50 minutes.

If you’re travelling from Cologne, you’ll want to take a seat on the left side of the train. Likewise if you are coming from Mainz, you’ll want a seat on the right.

This route is the first section of “Route 9” in the latest edition of the Europe by Rail guide, which is a good resource for train-spiration in Europe.

Three lakes from Freiburg

Freiburg im Breisgau is the fourth largest city in the state of Baden-Württemberg, and is known throughout Germany to be a bit of a hippie hub. Which makes it a fitting location to embark on this forest-lined rail route.

READ ALSO: Basel vs Freiburg: Which city is better to live in?

Any of a number of trains from Freiburg will take you through the Black Forest, and therefore offer some splendid green views. 

But for the most striking scenery that the region’s railways have to offer, it is recommended to navigate to Seebrugg by way of the Höllentalbahn (Hell Valley Railway) to the Dreiseebahn (Three Lakes Railway).

To do so, you can catch an S10 or S11 train to Titisee, and then transfer to an S1 train to Seebrugg. Since both of these trains are S-bahns, Deutschlandticket holders don’t need to pay any additional fares for this route.

Between Titisee and Seebrugg, you’ll pass by three beautiful lakes, hence the name Dreiseebahn. You’ll also score sustained views of Bärental (Bear Valley).

The entire journey takes about an hour and 15 minutes.

Zugspitze Railway Route

On the topic of scenic views in Germany, the Alps always deserve a spot on this list. Considering train routes, the Bavarian Alps Railway (Bayerische Zugspitzbahn) deserves a mention.

Train to Zugspitze

Relax and admire the Zugspitze: If you take the train to do your mountain sports, you don’t have to worry about traffic jams and icy roads. Photo: picture-alliance/ dpa-tmn | DB_AG/Bartlomiej_Banaszak

This route starts off in the region’s best-known ski town, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, and winds its way along the Alpine valleys toward the Austrian border, taking passengers to the base of the Zugspitze, which is Germany’s highest mountain. The journey takes about 90 minutes.

For some, Zugspitze offers Germany’s highest elevation hike, but for those not looking to get so many steps in, there is also a connected cable car that can take you to the top from the Eibsee stop.

The Bavarian Alps Railway is run by DB and connected to regional trains, so Deutschlandticket holders can enjoy this route on a day trip from Munich, for example, without purchasing another ticket.

Travellers without the monthly subscription ticket can buy a combined train and gondola ticket on the Zugspitze website.

Note that construction will cause railway disruptions during certain periods this spring and summer.

Brockenbahn: Harz Steam Railway Route

Usually a scenic train ride is just a bonus on the way to your destination. But what if the train journey was the destination?

As crazy as that may sound, for many passengers on the Brockenbahn in the Harz Mountains, that’s how it is.

The Brockenbahn is part of the greater Harz Railway (Harzer Schmalspurbahnen – HSB) which takes passengers through the notoriously scenic mountains and Harz National Park. It’s also a line hauled by historic steam-engine locomotives.

This route connects Wernigerode to the summit of Brocken mountain several times daily – with the entire line taking about an hour and 40 minutes. The summer timetable, including the connected HSB lines, can be found here.

Thanks to local agreements, Deutschlandticket holders can also ride HSB trains at no additional cost.

Dresden to Bad Schandau / Prague

You probably won’t read about this route in travel blogs, but anyone who’s taken a train from Berlin to Prague may have noticed that there is a particularly beautiful strip of tracks in the middle of the journey.

READ ALSO: Prague and Dresden added to Brussels night train route

Some of the most striking views are seen between Pirna (just outside of Dresden) and Bad Schandau, which is a spa town near the Czech border. Here the tracks follow the Elbe River, and you can catch glimpses of so-called Saxon Switzerland (Sächsische Schweiz), including a passing view of the infamous Bastei Bridge.

Of course the views don’t really end immediately at the border. So if you are compelled to journey into the Czech Republic, your views of rolling hills and small villages along the river will continue for some time.

This route is particularly gorgeous in autumn when trees all over the mountain sides have begun to turn red and yellow.

Local travellers can experience this line on an S1 train from Dresden with use of their local transportation passes. 

But if you are planning to cross the border, you’ll be on a long-distance train operated by Czech railway České dráhy (CD). You can buy tickets for CD trains coming from Germany from Deutsche Bahn, but sometimes it can be cheaper to find the same tickets on the CD website.

Allgäu train

A train runs through the Allgäu Alpine foothills. The region is known for its wildflower filled meadows, and Bavarian villages. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Karl-Josef Hildenbrand

Allgäu Railway

A quick image search for “Allgäu” provides reason enough to put this humble train trip on your Germany bucket list.

Crossing the beautiful Allgäu region, this hour and half train ride connects Ulm and Lindau, and offers views of rolling hills, wildflower filled meadows, and Bavarian villages along the way.

Best of all, it ends at Lake Constance, also called Bodensee, which is a stellar summer-time destination for a lake-side vacation.

READ ALSO: Living in Germany – Making the most of culture and lake life

Note that there are two main routes connecting Ulm to Lindau. Each of them takes about 90 minutes, but the one that travels directly through the Allgäu region is the one with a transfer in Memmingen.

SHOW COMMENTS