SHARE
COPY LINK

OPINION AND ANALYSIS

Why visitors to Italy are ditching hotels – and where they’re staying instead

Traditional hotels are falling out of favour in Italy as the rise of sustainable, experiential travel takes more people off the beaten path, says Silvia Marchetti.

Why visitors to Italy are ditching hotels - and where they’re staying instead
The breakfast terrace at the Sotto Le Stelle 'albergo diffuso' south of Rome. Photo by Silvia Marchetti/The Local

The pandemic has changed the way we travel, and the type of accommodation we want. Tourists flocking to Italy for the summer holidays are now looking at alternative places to stay, according to recent surveys, that transcend the concept of traditional hotel and allow them to fully savour the local vibe and lifestyle.

The change in preferences is also linked to greater environmental awareness. People are picking more sustainable, small-scale, low-impact and energy-saving accommodation options, as suggested by the recent ‘Future Travel Behaviours’ survey by the EY observatory: the study found 74 percent of travellers are planning eco-conscious holidays in ‘green’, Covid-safe resorts.

OPINION: Mass tourism is back in Italy – but the way we travel is changing

Among these options are Italy’s so-called alberghi diffusi (scattered or ‘diffuse’ hotels) which I believe are the safest in guaranteeing pandemic social distancing and fewer crowds – still top concerns for many travellers.

This type of accommodation is not concentrated in one single building but scattered across a whole medieval village, often remote, sleepy and depopulating. The rooms are in former barns, stables, farmer or shepherds’ homes, elegantly renovated with their authenticity preserved. The reception is often in an old pigsty or little chapel at the entrance to the village. 

Here, you’ll avoid the risk of bumping into other guests and get to meet locals and savor the small-scale village buzz. The only drawbacks are that you’ll be walking a lot from one cottage to another for your spa or evening drinks, while to get to the breakfast room in the morning, prepare to walk around in your pyjamas and flip flops!

That’s what I did when I visited Borgo di Sempronio, an albergo diffuso in the secluded Tuscan village of Semproniano in the Maremma area, where wild boars crossing streets are a common sight. A maze of winding steps connect the reddish stone dwellings, which feature ceiling-high chimneys and modern facilities. 

The Borgo di Sempronio ‘albergo diffuso’ in Tuscany. Photo by Silvia Marchetti/The Local

At breakfast, owner Fulvio treated me to fresh, still-warm ricotta cheese straight from the shepherd and tasty seasoned hams. We dined at the main village restaurant, eating fettuccelle in a wild boar sauce, because the philosophy of the albergo diffuso is to experience the places where locals hang out. They offer the opportunity to live the village life and discover hidden spots, admiring the views each time you leave your doorstep. They’re a real throwback to the old rural days.

READ ALSO: Is Italy’s west or east coast the best place for a holiday?

Tour operators I spoke to say current bookings at these ‘scattered resorts’ are 40 percent higher than in pre-pandemic times. The main reason alberghi diffusi are taking off as an ‘alternative’ form of accommodation is that they offer greater flexibility and freedom in holiday schedules, allowing to also keep working remotely. 

Following the pandemic, many travellers still don’t want to go back to small confined spaces like hotel rooms with elevators; they long for outdoor space in a place that feels like home. 

Cottages in the Sotto Le Stelle albergo diffuso in Picinisco, a village in the wild Ciociaria region south of Rome, come with private kitchens, dining and living rooms and terraces. When I visited, old village ladies knocked at my door in the morning bringing breakfast: home made jams and acacia honey on thin slices of pecorino sheeps’ cheese.

The reception at Borgo di Sempronio in Tuscany. Photo by Silvia Marchetti/The Local

As traditional hotels become less popular, other types of accommodation people are  increasingly opting for include so-called agriturismi: rural farm-resorts with animals, orchards, traditional taverns and a few rooms rented on a bed-and-breakfast basis, which were once food stores and barns. 

READ ALSO: Ten ways to save money on your trip to Italy this summer

Usually family-run, they’re located in quiet areas outside of towns and villages. At agriturismi guests enjoy being surrounded by nature and eating locally prepared foods, or relaxing by the pool and doing outdoor activities like horse riding.

Staying at an ‘agriturismo’ in Ciociaria. Photo by Silvia Marchetti/The Local

There are even more quirky options: you can book stays in medieval towers, old pirate lookout fortresses that come with a private dinghy, restored lighthouses, and sea-view bunkers with panoramic patios. All these offer a knowledge jolt, allowing guests to fully experience and learn about Italy’s architectural past. 

And then there are caves turned into apartments, like on the islands of Ponza and Palmarola off Rome’s coast, where prehistoric people once lived. These whitewashed grottos feature layered stone terraces overlooking the sea. And the cave rooms are naturally cool during hot summer days, which cuts down on electricity costs.

I believe the quest for such alternative stays proves how the pandemic has boosted the desire to experiment with trips which were not the first option before, as people now long for greater exclusivity and privacy and more opportunities to interact with their surroundings.

Member comments

  1. alberghi diffusi sound charming. Can you suggest ways to find these? I google the term, but don’t come up with much information.

  2. From other articles I’ve read about alberghi diffusi, they are pretty expensive, so not an option for many people.

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.
For members

ITALIAN TRADITIONS

What to expect in Italy on Republic Day 2024

From special events to free museum openings, here’s what you can expect in Italy on Sunday, June 2nd.

What to expect in Italy on Republic Day 2024

Sunday, June 2nd will be Italy’s Republic Day – a national public holiday commemorating the birth of the Italian Republic as we have it today.

Italy’s Festa della Repubblica marks the exact date in 1946 when Italians voted in a referendum to abolish the then 85-year-old monarchy, which had fallen out of favour due to its close alignment with Mussolini’s Fascist regime, and establish a democratic republic.

Unfortunately, this year’s Republic Day falls on a Sunday, meaning it won’t give people in the country an extra day off (national holidays in Italy are taken on the day they fall on that year rather than being moved to the nearest available weekday).

READ ALSO: How to make the most of Italy’s public holidays in 2024

That said, there’s still plenty of things you can look forward to if you’re in Italy on Sunday.

A military parade and trails of ‘tricolour’ smoke in Rome

As is traditional, the bulk of official Republic Day celebrations will take place in the capital. 

At around 9am on Sunday, President Sergio Mattarella will pay homage to fallen Italian soldiers by laying a laurel wreath before the war memorial at the Altare della Patria monument, in the central Piazza Venezia square.

Members of Italy's Carabinieri force parade on horses in central Rome on Republic Day

Members of Italy’s Carabinieri force parade on horses in central Rome on Republic Day in 2015. Photo by ANDREAS SOLARO / AFP

This will be followed by the traditional Republic Day military parade, with hundreds of members of Italy’s armed forces marching down the iconic Via dei Fori Imperiali. 

Unfortunately, this year’s parade is already sold out after all available tickets were snapped up in the space of a few hours last Wednesday.

If you didn’t manage to get your ticket or live elsewhere in the country, you can still watch the event for free on Rai1 (channel one on Italian TV sets) or on state broadcaster Rai’s online streaming platform RaiPlay.

Celebrations in the capital will end with a spectacular display from Italy’s Frecce Tricolori, with ten Air Force jets set to fly over the city, leaving trails of green, white and red smoke (the colours of Italy’s tricolore flag) in the sky.

Celebrations in other cities

Besides Rome, other major cities around the country will hold Republic Day celebrations.

Just to name a few, Milan will hold a flag-hoisting ceremony in the central Piazza del Duomo square on Sunday morning. This will be followed by a number of cultural events in the afternoon, including free concerts in the courtyard of Palazzo Marino.

A military parade and a flag-hoisting ceremony will take place in Venice’s Piazza San Marco starting from 8.45am on Sunday.

In Florence, a flag-raising event will be followed by an award ceremony for members of Italy’s armed forces in Piazza della Signoria.  

Free museum openings 

For the second year in a row, people around the country will be able to visit state-run museums and archaeological sites for free on Republic Day (which incidentally overlaps with Italy’s ‘free museum Sundays’ scheme this year).

This will apply to hundreds of sites, including world-famous attractions like the Colosseum, Pompeii, Florence’s Galleria dell’Accademia, and the Reggia di Caserta. 

A tourist takes a picture of Rome's Colosseum

A tourist takes a picture of Rome’s Colosseum. Photo by Vincenzo PINTO / AFP

A full list of the museums, palaces and parks you can visit free of charge on Sunday is available on the Italian culture ministry’s website.

Please note that, though admission will be free, some venues may still require advance booking, so it’s always wise to find the attraction’s website beforehand and check the rules before you go.

As part of this year’s Republic Day celebrations, people in Rome will also be able to visit Palazzo Madama – the seat of the Italian senate – from 10am to 6pm on Sunday.

Further info can be found here.

Public transport and changes to local traffic

Most public transport operators around the country will operate on a normal weekend timetable (or orario festivo) on Sunday, with the quality and frequency of services during the day likely to vary significantly between rural and urban areas, as well as between cities.

Areas that are usually served by just the occasional bus may see very limited services, whereas parts of the country that already have robust public transport networks will keep them fairly active. 

There are no transport strikes planned for Sunday.

It’s worth noting that traffic in major cities around the country may undergo changes on Sunday to allow for the safe unfolding of Republic Day celebrations. 

These changes can usually be found on the relevant town hall’s website or social channels. 

For instance, this is Rome’s local authorities’ plan for Sunday. 

SHOW COMMENTS