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CULTURE

Is Germany falling out of love with Abendbrot?

A light evening meal made up of bread, cold cuts of meat and cheese has been part of German food culture for over a hundred years - but is the Abendbrot tradition dying out?

The traditional German Abendbrot
The traditional German Abendbrot. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Sina Schuldt

Settling down to some bread, meats, cheese, salad and spreads between 5 and 7pm has been part of many Germans’ schedules for more than 100 years. 

But in the modern working world and the globalised era of the low-carb dinner – based on the recommendation from some nutrition experts to eat few carbohydrates in the evening – Abendbrot isn’t fashionable anymore, and some say it could be on the brink of extinction.

In southern European countries like Spain and Greece people usually eat a warm meal in the evening – and at a later time than in Germany. Bread with sausage and cheese is considered a starter at best, and not a full meal that is finished in time for the evening news on TV.

Meat and bread is traditionally part of Abendbrot.

Meat and bread is traditionally part of Abendbrot. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Sina Schuldt

How did Abendbrot develop?

Germans traditionally enjoy a hot sit-down lunch between 12 and 2pm. That’s why people began opting for a simple Abendbrot – translated literally as ‘evening bread’ – later on in the day.

According to cultural scientists, this custom of eating cold food in the evening dates back to the 1920s. At that time, industry dominated everyday life – in contrast to the more agricultural structures in countries like Italy and France.

READ ALSO: Five delicious breads you have to try in Germany

Canteens were becoming common in German factories. Those who dined there at lunchtime often no longer wanted a hot meal in the evening. As work became less physically demanding thanks to technological advances, many people preferred a lighter meal in the evening: bread, sausage, cheese, some raw vegetables – and nothing more. 

Abendbrot became even more popular after the war. At that time, the number of working women also increased. The quickly prepared evening meal became a tradition in many families. 

The structure of eating a bigger meal at lunchtime can still be seen in German workplaces today. Many companies still have canteens serving a wide variety of hot food where employees are encouraged to dine during their break. Eating a sandwich at your desk is usually frowned upon. 

Is Abendbrot popular now?

Some people – especially older generations – are still fond of the tradition of eating a larger meal at lunchtime and then having Abendbrot later on. 

Despite it being simple, fans of the humble dinner say it’s never boring. As is well known, Germany is proud of its thousands of different types of bread – from Roggenbrot (rye bread) to Zwiebelbrot (onion bread), and its many varieties of sausages. It’s often served with gherkins, radishes, lots of different cheeses and hard-boiled eggs.

Bread rolls in a store

Germany has a wide variety of breads. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Mohssen Assanimoghaddam

But millions of Germans now lead a life without it: the trend away from the cold snack dinner is clearly visible from Sylt in the north to the Allgäu in the south.

In the Allensbach study “So is(s)t Deutschland” (how Germany eats) for the food company Nestlé, researchers found that dinner has become the most important meal for many people during the week. In 2019, 38 percent named dinner as the main meal of the day, compared to one third of the population 10 years earlier.

QUIZ: How well do you know German food culture?

The Covid pandemic, which left millions working at home for months, has allowed many families to get together in the middle of the day. But experts don’t see a major revival of lunch, despite more people working from home. This could be down to work pressures, with people unable to relax, cook and eat a big meal during their break. 

Nestlé spokesman Alexander Antonoff said that all indications show that the trend towards having a warm main meal in the evening will continue. He said that getting together after the working day fits more into the increasingly de-structured everyday life of millions of households in central Europe.

Despite all this, artist and university lecturer Ingke Günther from Giessen doesn’t  believe that the once popular Abendbrot will disappear completely in Germany. But it has lost the role it played for decades.

“That is because the realities of work and life have become more diverse,” said Günther.

“But among older people and in families with children, the evening meal is often still the rule.”

And in some urban areas, where organic bakeries have developed a new bread culture, there is a conscious return to Abendbrot, with a bit more of a hipster vibe. 

Vocabulary

Custom – (der) Brauch

Recognisable/apparent – erkennbar

Starter – (die) Vorspeise

Meal – (die) Mahlzeit

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EVENTS

Six unmissable events happening around Germany in June 2024

As summer kicks off in Germany, so do a number of festivals across the country. Here are a few of the events in June to keep in mind as you make warm-weather plans.

Six unmissable events happening around Germany in June 2024

After all of the public holidays in May this year, June may feel like a heavy one for work. 

All the more reason to make the most of your weekends.

Fortunately, between Euro 2024 (for the football fans) and music festivals featuring a wide array of genres, this June offers plenty of possibilities for enjoying your free time.

Here are a few June events you wont want to miss:

May 31st – June 2nd: Eurofolk Festival

Kicking off a day ahead of the beginning of June this year is the annual Eurofolk Festival in Ingelheim in Rhineland Palatinate.

Musical performances by groups representing world folk traditions (including American, Greek and Irish folk music, for example) are scheduled in the afternoons and evenings on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. As well as workshops on various folk traditions and hobbies such as juggling, drumming, handicrafts and an herb hike.

According to the event website, this year’s most anticipated act will be the Ukrainian folk group Yagody.

Note that ticket sales on-site will be cash only, but you can pay electronically for presale tickets online. 

June 7th – 16th Bach Fest

For fans of classical and choral music, Leipzig’s Bach Festival offers open air concerts at the city’s main market as well as performances in the historic St. Thomas Church and other venues.

Monument of the composer Johann Sebastian Bach in front of St Thomas Church in Leipzig

Monument of the composer Johann Sebastian Bach. Photo: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-Zentralbild | Hendrik Schmidt

Named for one of Germany’s most famous classical composers, Johann Sebastian Bach, festival attendees can expect to hear the kind of music that he spent most of his life composing, such as choral cantatas.

Hardcore Bach fans can purchase a festival pass for €77, or you can buy tickets to individual concerts. While you’re there you can also consider checking out the Bach museum.

Starting June 14th: Euro 2024

One of the biggest events taking place across Germany in June is the UEFA European Football Championship, also called Euro 2024.

A total of 24 European national football teams will be competing in a series of matches in venues around Germany for one month, with the first match (Germany versus Scotland) kicking off in Munich on the 14th.

With 2.7 million fans expected to come out to see the championship matches, the event is sure to be felt by residents in all of Germany’s major cities, whether you are a football fan or not.

football at Berlin's fan zone

The Euro 2024 football on the turf in front of Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate. Berlin’s ‘fan mile’ will be the largest public viewing area for the games in Germany. (Photo by Jens Schlueter / AFP)

READ ALSO: Euro 2024: What you can expect in Germany during Europe’s biggest football frenzy

For those in Germany, you can likely find a public place to watch the matches live, even if you don’t have tickets to the games. For example, in Cologne a ‘Football Village’ will be set up in the Altstadt (Old Town), for local fans to watch and celebrate games together.

In Berlin, Straße des 17 Juni in Tiergarten will be transformed into the “fan mile”, which is to be the largest open air venue for live screening Euro 2024 in Germany. The capital city’s most famous landmark, the Brandenburg Gate is to be made to look like an enormous football goal for the occasion, and matches will be projected on it.

The final match will be held in Berlin on July 14th. 

June 21st: Fête de la Musique

June 20th marks the summer solstice this year, meaning that the 20th and 21st have the longest daylight hours in the Northern Hemisphere – and also mark the beginning of summer, from a geographic perspective.

On this occasion, Berlin’s Fête de la Musique offers those in Germany’s capital a chance to “celebrate the longest and most musical day of the year together”.

Fête de la Musique is basically a crowd-sourced outdoor music festival where local musicians perform at local venues around Berlin, and plenty more spontaneous acts can be found in the city’s streets, parks and public spaces as well.

All of the performances are completely free and will take place throughout the day and into the evening.

Fete de la Musique drums

A group performs the folkloric dance movement form “Candombe” and music from Uruguay in Berlin-Schöneberg as part of the Fete de la Musique. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Christoph Soeder

June 26th – 30th: Fusion Festival

The Fusion Festival (often depicted in Cyrillic letters as Фузион) is a renowned music and arts festival that takes place every year at a former military airfield in Lärz, Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania, in north-eastern Germany.

With a focus on collective action, the event can be viewed as a social experiment in utopian communism, and has become an iconic event in the European festival scene. It’s also known for its quirky atmosphere and eclectic music lineup.

concert at night

June has a number of music festivals. Some of the momre popular ones, like Fusion Festival, can be quite a spectacle. Photo by Danny Howe | Unsplash

As well as a diverse musical programme from renowned artists and underground talents, the festival also hosts numerous workshops and discussions.

Festival tickets are available for €220, and Sunday tickets are on sale for €60 – both come with a €10 ‘trash deposit’ as well. There is also a portal in the website to a message board where ticket holders can sell or swap tickets, should they sell out.

June 28th – 30th: Hamburg Harley Days 

Harley-Davidson’s festival, ‘Harley Days’, includes a motorcycle market as well as live music and will take place on Banksstrasse at the end of June.

bikers at Harley Days fest

Participants ride their Harley-Davidson motorcycles across the event site at the Hamburg wholesale market during the first day of Harley Days. Harley Days is Europe’s largest inner-city biker gathering. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Marcus Brandt

Guests can take a gander at classic motorbikes as well as the latest Harley models, or take one for a test-ride. A custom bike show is held on Saturday, and on Sunday there is a motorcycle parade through the city.

The event also promises to have a stunt show, a BBQ-focused food court, and tattoo booths.

Children and minors up to 18 years old can enter the fest for free, and there is free admission for all on Sunday the 30th. One or two day adult tickets (for Friday and Saturday) are available on pre-sale for €11 or €20 respectively.

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