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Riding the Radweg: A guide to touring Germany by bike

From exceptional hospitality to stunning sights - and obligatory Biergartens - here's author and US resident Phil Schaaf's experience of taking a cycling holiday in Germany.

Published: 11 January 2022 17:02 CET

Cyclists in Stuttgart, southern Germany. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Tom Weller

It started with a simple statement: “I’d like to go on a bike trip.” That’s all my good friend, Todd, said as we discussed what the freedom of getting the coronavirus vaccine would mean. It was the fall of 2020 and I had no idea where he wanted to go, but it sure sounded like “Biergarten” to me.

About 11 months later, we pedalled a ceremonial lap around the Cologne Cathedral and began a 13-day trip that took us south along the Rhine to Mainz, and then east to the city of Wertheim, where we met three friends to ride the Tauber-Altmühl Radweg as a quintet. Our motto was: “very little to do and even less to prove”.

Part I: The Rhine

If your idea of a dream vacation in Germany is to see majestic castles and stop at outdoor cafes and restaurants, then cycling the Rhine checks all those boxes and more.

The river winds through small towns that seem to be placed as part of an interactive model set, telling a story that is as impressive as its beauty. Just north of Koblenz, for example, we talked to a man walking his dog and he pointed to a mural commemorating the place where Caesar built a bridge over the Rhine in 55 BC. To put that in perspective, the most famous span in America, the Golden Gate Bridge, opened in 1937.

One of the many castles along the Rhine river on the way to Koblenz.

One of the many castles along the Rhine river on the way to Koblenz. All photos courtesy of Phil Schaaf

Bacharach: ‘Getting one back’

There is a meditative quality to the rhythm of a bike trip, and the phrase we used to express our appreciation was: “getting one back.” Day three was all about that vibe, taking us through hillside vineyards, past the mythic Loreley rock and ending in the fairytale city of Bacharach; a town whose charm shines even in darkness.

There are many cities in Germany with sturdy timbered buildings, arched gateways and narrow cobblestone streets, but Bacharach possesses a palpable medieval magic where everything is better simply because you are there. The highlight of the stay, however, had nothing to do with the town’s well-preserved antiquity, but the hospitality of Anna and Richard, the proprietors of Pension Bei der Post, an inn located about a mile up the hill from the centre of town.

Checking in, Anna told us they opened their lounge in the evenings if we would like a nightcap, so we decided to have a dessert beer after returning from dinner. As we sat at our table, Richard turned on CNN International, but soon recognised that we weren’t interested in the business plan of television news.

He then asked if we would like to hear some music and gestured at a nearby guitar. We nodded, the TV got switched off and Richard began to strum, breaking into “Feelings,” the Morris Albert hit from 1974; an unlikely, but perfect song to deliver us to the present tense of our setting. The mood established, he then played songs from the Beatles, Credence Clearwater Revival, Dire Straits, Eagles and many other artists, making each song his own. Bitburger never had a better accompanist.

Richard, one of the proprietors at Bei der Post in Bacharach.

Richard, one of the owners at Bei der Post in Bacharach, playing guitar.

The next morning, Richard and Anna gave each of us a parting gift, a journal with Bacharach embossed at the top and our name at the bottom. As we left, they followed us out of the Pension, waving like proud parents sending their kids off to school.

Riding away, Todd smiled and said: “think we got a few back there.”

Part II: The road to Wertheim

Leaving the Rhine wasn’t so much saying goodbye to a river, but being greeted by a scene of endless greenery on the way to Wertheim, the northern most city on the Tauber-Altmühl Radweg. This region of Germany is a popular destination for cyclists and it’s easy to see why, for it’s beautiful in the way that natural settings slowly absorb into one’s senses. You can literally feel your blood pressure go down as farmland dissolves into small towns and villages before returning to endless vistas of manicured countryside and forests.

Arriving in Wertheim, we met our friends, Ed, Jack and Marty, and caught up over dinner at the Ankerplatz Biergarten, a fabulous establishment situated on the Main River across from Burg Wertheim, the storybook castle that overlooks the town. Enthusiasm was high as we discussed our imminent tour down the Tauber-Altmühl Radweg, the 347-kilometre route that follows the Tauber and Altmühl rivers to the Danube.

View of Burg Wertheim taken from Ankerplatz Biergarten

Part III: The Tauber-Altmühl Radweg (bike path)

Riding the Radweg is straightforward in terms of planning, as it conveniently divides into 30-mile sections that will take you to accommodation-friendly cities like Bad Mergentheim, Rothenburg, Herrieden, Treuchtlingen, Eichstätt and Beilngries.

Along the way, you ride through Gemütlichkeit-drenched towns such as Creglingen, Leutershausen, Gern, Bad Abbach and other picturesque destinations to stop for lunch, a little bit of sightseeing or simple relaxation.

A view of the Tauber-Altmuehl Radweg somewhere outside of Eichstaett.

Most importantly, the hospitality one encounters on the Radweg is excellent, a remarkable thing given the challenges of the Covid era. The majority of hotels and restaurants are short-staffed, reeling from many months of pandemic realities, but it does not impact the quality of service. The Tauber-Altmühl Radweg is replete with generosity, sincerity and good humour. It is, in every way, an ideal and inclusive experience for cycling enthusiasts of all skill levels.

Trip highlight: A day that can’t be manufactured

What we knew on the fourth day was that we were riding to Treuchtlingen. What we didn’t know is that we would stumble across Germany’s own Field of Dreams, or FC Aha, a soccer club on the edge of a cornfield; a setting so idyllic that you think Fritz Walter and Franz Beckenbauer might walk out of the cornstalks and onto the pitch.

We came across FC Aha as a game was being played under a cloudless sky, circumstances that mandated a stop. Finding a table just below the clubhouse terrace, we were soon joined by new friends, trading jokes and sharing stories over the course of a long afternoon. When the sun began to set, we departed in the game jerseys they had gifted us, singing the chorus to the club song we had just learned. It was the kind of unexpected encounter that cannot be manufactured, but that you hope every vacation day might become.

The FC Aha club. Five locals and five Americans – fast friends over soccer, beer and sunshine.

Enduring lesson of the Radweg

With three days of riding left, the emphasis was solidly on the journey, not the destination. Our end point, the Old Stone Bridge in Regensburg, was approaching with each turn of the sprocket and we did not want to get cheated out of one sight, beverage or experience in our path.

About 10 kilometers outside of Regensburg, we were riding in a line and slowed down as we came upon the open umbrellas of a Biergarten. Our discussion over its appeal was uncharacteristically muted and lacked focus when Todd called out: “You might never get the chance to drink here again!”

All five bikes made a 90-degree turn and came to a stop. The Old Stone Bridge would have to wait; our priorities were still in place…we simply needed a reminder.

Keep an eye on TheLocal.de for Phil’s tips on making the most of a cycling trip in Germany

Member comments

Anonymous - 13 January 2022 at 15:20 CET

Sounds like a fun trip, thanks for sharing. One day I would love to do something like this along the Rhine and over to Bavaria.

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REVEALED: Germany's most popular cycling routes for summer

With the summer holidays fast approaching, it’s the ideal time to start making plans for the long, sunny days and time off work or school. And for most German families, it just wouldn’t be summer without at least one cycling tour in the countryside.

Beyond its enchanting natural landscapes, Germany boasts an incredible 100,000 kilometers of dedicated cycling trails – so it’s no wonder exploring the great outdoors on two wheels is something of a national pastime.

Each year, the German Cycle Club (ADFC) conducts a poll of its members to pin down their five all-time favourite cycling routes – and this year there’s truly something for everybody.

With some stretching as long as 1,300km, these choices aren’t for the faint-hearted, but more casual cyclists will no doubt have fun picking a part of the route that takes in some breathtaking locations and sights, whether it’s the peaks of the Alps or the meandering banks of the Rhine.

Elbe Cycle Route (Elberadweg)

A view of the Elbe in the Saxon Switzerland

A view of the Elbe from the peaks of Saxon Switzerland. Photo: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-Zentralbild | Robert Michael

Length: 840km in Germany, 1,270km in total
Difficulty: Easy to Medium

If you want a taste of how varied and unique different German regions can be, travelling the length of the Elberadweg from the Bad Schandau in Saxony to the North Sea coast is a great place to start.

Following the banks of the Elbe up from Dresden, you’ll take in cultural landmarks such as Dessau, the birthplace of Bauhaus, Lutherstadt Wittenberg and the imposing Magdeburg Cathedral. But arguably the highlight of this 840km route is the stretch of the Elbe that winds through the breathtaking rock formations of Saxon Switzerland as you cycle away from the Czech border.

Further to the north, the Elberadweg takes you through the atmospheric port city of Hamburg and includes HafenCity and the famous Elbphilarmonie. Leaving the hustle and bustle and weaving along the estuary, you’ll end up the quiet coastal town of Cuxhaven in Lower Saxony where the Elbe flows into the North Sea.

The ADFC recommends doing the full trip in 13 stages, taking around two weeks. But if you’re really up for an adventure, you can spread over three weeks in 22 stages by starting in the Czech Republic and traversing the full 1,270km route from the Elbe’s source at Špindlerův Mlýn in the Bohemian Mountains.

Rhine Cycle Route (Rheinradweg)

Tourists take photographs of the scenic view atop Loreley, Germany

Tourists take photographs of the scenic view atop Loreley, a legendary cliff next to a curve in the Rhine. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Thomas Frey

Length: 1,320km in total, 800km in Germany
Level: Easy to Medium

For a route that encompasses everything from Alpine panoramas to the industrial Rührgebiet, look no further than the Rheinradweg, otherwise known as Euro Velo 15.

One of the most modern and well-maintained cycle routes in Europe, the full Euro Velo 15 stretches all the way from the source of the Rhine in the Swiss Alps to the Hook of Holland, but by far the longest stretch runs through Germany.

If you start the route a little earlier in Switzerland, you’ll ride along the banks of idyllic Lake Constance before reaching Basel and weaving your way up through Baden-Württemberg. Along the way, you’ll take in the Black Forest and the elegant city of Karlsruhe, not far from the university towns of Freiburg and Heidelberg.

Just a stone’s throw from the border with France, this part of Germany is known for its exceptional wine, so you’ll have plenty of opportunities to relax with a chilled glass of Riesling after a long day of cycling. The route also takes in the Middle Rhine Valley, a romantic stretch of the river dotted with medieval castles and ancient forts, as well as the legendary Loreley Rock.

At the northern end of the trail, you’ll pass through Bonn and Cologne in North Rhine-Westphalia before reaching Arnhem on the Dutch border.

Doing the entirety of the Rhineradweg takes around 24 days, but if you’re staying entirely in Germany, it can be done in 2-3 weeks, depending on your fitness and how much time you factor in for enjoying a tipple or two.

Baltic Sea Coast Cycle Route (Ostseeküstenradweg)

Views of the ocean on Rügen

The famous white cliffs of Rügen. Photo: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-Zentralbild | Jens Büttner

Length: 1,140km
Difficulty: Medium

If summer makes you yearn for sea, sand and rugged coastlines, the Baltic Sea Coast route will definitely tick all of your boxes.

Starting in the northern seaside town of Flensburg near the Danish border, this charming route takes in pristine beaches, unspoilt islands and UNESCO World Heritage sites as it weaves through Schleswig-Holstein and into Mecklenburg Western-Pomerania.

Highlights of the tour include the historic Hanseatic towns of Lübeck and Wismar, the upmarket seaside resort of Heiligendamm with its iconic white houses, and the cascading cliffs on the island of Rügen.

Along the way, you’ll also traverse the imaginatively named Fischland-Darß-Zingst peninsula, which boasts unbeatable bathing spots, and pass through Griefswald, the birthplace of romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich. The tour culminates on the beautiful island of Usedom, near the Polish border.

Depending on your fitness and how much time you want to spend in the beach resorts and towns along the way, you should set aside around two weeks for the complete route. If you only have a week to spare, the route is easy to split the into two halves, travelling from Flensburg to Lübeck or Lübeck to Usedom.

Weser Cycle Route (Weser-Radweg)

A stretch of the Weser cycle route near Hamlin.

A stretch of the Weser cycle route near Hamlin. Photo: picture alliance / Deike Uhtenwoldt/dpa-tmn | Deike Uhtenwoldt

Length: 520km
Level: Easy

When it comes to Germany’s most popular cycle routes, the Weser-Radweg often comes out on top: this year, it landed in the German Cycling Club’s top five for the fifth year running.

Taking in six diverse regions of the country, each with its own unique character, it’s easy to see why this route is so beloved.

You’ll start just outside Kassel in the town of Hann Münden and set off through the the Weser Upland Hills; a romantic nature park alive with fragrant wild flowers, rare lichens and peaceful moorlands. Passing through central Germany, you’ll take countless medieval villages and old castles in the rolling hills and can even stop off at the Pied Piper’s house in Hamlin.

Culminating in Cuxhaven on the North Sea Coast, the route cuts through the Weser Marshes, taking in Bremerhaven with its famed Maritime Museum as well as the Hanseatic city of Bremen with its beautifully preserved Old Town and striking Gothic Town Hall.

At just 520km, the Weser-Radweg can be completed in just over a week, but those who prefer a more leisurely cycling holiday can stretch it out to 2-3 weeks.

Danube Cycle Route (Donauradweg)

Passau in Bavaria

A view of the Danube in the historic town of Passau, Bavaria. Photo: picture alliance / dpa | Armin Weigel

Length: 2,800 in total, 560km in Germany
Level: Easy to Medium

If it’s awe-inspiring scenery you’re after as you explore the great outdoors, the Donauradweg may well be the ideal choice. Starting in the picturesque town of Donaueschingen in the Black Forest at the source of the Danube river, this 560km route will take you on a mesmerising ride through Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg, all the way to the Austrian border.

Pedalling along the serene banks of the Danube, you’ll pass through Ulm, home to the world’s tallest church steeple, and Regensburg, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its well-preserved medieval Old Town. But the unrivalled highlight of this tour is undoubtedly the stretch that cuts through Bavarian Forest, where the river weaves along dramatic gorges and verdant valleys.

As you continue eastward, you’ll arrive at the vibrant city of Passau, situated on the Austrian border at the confluence of three rivers. Here, you can admire the baroque architecture and enjoy a hearty meal or even a leisurely boat trip as you congratulate yourself for your endeavours.

Despite Bavaria’s mountainous backdrop, the Donauradweg is relatively flat and shouldn’t pose a problem for seasoned cyclists. Depending on your fitness level and pace, you’ll want to set aside around 1-2 weeks to complete the stretch in Germany, though the full route through Austria and Hungary will take a fair bit longer.

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