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Why Paris public toilets have become an elusive prize during pandemic

With cafes, bars and museums closed to combat the coronavirus outbreak, Parisians are learning what tourists have long known -- finding a public toilet in the French capital requires some sleuthing and plenty of patience.

Why Paris public toilets have become an elusive prize during pandemic
A public toilet in Paris is cleaned in March 2021. STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN / AFP

Long lines outside the few facilities available have become a common sight as spring weather draws more people outdoors, in particular at parks or along the banks of the Seine.

“It’s really complicated, especially for girls, because there’s always a line and there aren’t that many toilets,” said Charlotte Le Merdy, a
publishing assistant, waiting with around a dozen others for a break near Notre-Dame cathedral.

Men are more often tempted to duck behind a tree or find a relatively remote wall, which hasn’t helped the city’s complicated relationship with cleanliness.

Mayor Anne Hidalgo is already facing a torrent of complaints about trash and neglect on social media, where hundreds of unflattering photos have been posted with the hashtag “#saccageParis” (trashing of Paris) in recent weeks.

“I probably shouldn’t say it, but you try to go somewhere secluded, in the bushes maybe,” said Romain Chevreux, an event organiser who was enjoying an afternoon near the Eiffel Tower.

“It’s a little complicated, especially because a lot of toilets are out of order, so you do what you have to,” he said.

Luc, a street cleaner near the Place de la Republique, confirmed that “guys piss everywhere – you see that the streets are dirty, that there’s no hygiene.”

‘So filthy’

The city says there are 435 self-cleaning toilets installed across the capital, which saw their usage drop by 20 percent last year due to Covid-19 lockdowns.

It also counts an additional 50 stand-up urinals and some 300 toilets at parks and gardens, many of which are indexed on the website
toilettespubliques.net.

But many people are convinced that’s still not enough. And often, the toilets that are working aren’t exactly inviting.

“These toilets are so filthy, going inside is like you’re trying to get sick,” said Bamoye, a bike courier who like his colleagues often has no other choice.

Elie Sabaa, a taxi driver, has developed another strategy in the absence of quick breaks at a cafe.

“Ninety percent of the time I have to go back home because it’s the only place that’s clean,” he said. “It wastes a lot of time.”

The situation has made Parisians all the more impatient for cafes and restaurants to reopen — President Emmanuel Macron has announced that outdoor seating will be allowed starting May 19.

“It does pose a problem when you drink too much in the parks, you want to find a toilet and there’s a massive line,” said English teacher Paris Zeikos.

“You need to be cautious to how much water you drink before, how much water you drink afterwards, and you kind of need to be aware of your surroundings at the same time,” he said.

SEE ALSO: Expanded café terraces to return to Paris this summer

Member comments

  1. What’s missing from the article is why so many of the public toilets are closed right now. It feels as if it is more than they are simply out of order, as some seem to be closed because of COVID.

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PARIS

‘Come back’: Champs-Elysees wants to win over Parisians

The Champs-Elysees, the iconic avenue sweeping through central Paris dotted with cafes and shops, connects the Place de la Concorde in the east with the Arc de Triomphe in the west in a single, breathtakingly straight line.

'Come back': Champs-Elysees wants to win over Parisians

But one thing seems to be missing amid the throngs of tourists — Parisians themselves.

A true Parisian is rare on the Champs-Elysees, and as one local said, that is not really surprising.

“There’s no place for us — no garden, nowhere to sit,” Xavier LeBrun, 35, told AFP as he watched tourists stream past on the almost two-kilometre avenue during his cigarette break.

The Champs-Elysees is “where Parisians cross to get from one place to another, and that’s it”, he said.

A top tourist attraction, locals have gradually abandoned the Champs-Elysees over concerns that it is too noisy, dirty and expensive, with luxury brands replacing smaller, independent shops.

But that could change if a committee, eager to make the Champs-Elysees attractive to Parisians again, can make its voice heard.

‘Everyone was fleeing’

After five years of work the “Champs-Elysees Committee”, endowed with a budget of €5 million, this week listed 150 proposals including adding green spaces, reducing pollution, and organising cultural events to “revive” the famed avenue.

This handout photo obtained on May 27, 2024 courtesy of PCA-STREAM shows a computer-generated image of an aerial view of the Champs-Elysees district, with the Arc de Triomphe seen rear, transformed by the “Re-enchanting the Champs-Elysees” urban project in Paris. (Photo by PCA-STREAM / AFP)

The starting point for the Champs-Elysees Committee, an association of business and culture representatives, was the “alarming” realisation that the world-famous street was “no longer loved, no longer likeable, deserted by Parisians, and feared by foreigners”, reads the committee’s report.

“Everyone was fleeing,” they wrote.

A giant open-air picnic held on the avenue at the weekend was an example of how the committee plans to address the issue.

“It’s a way of telling Parisians: Come back to the Champs-Elysees,” committee chairman Marc-Antoine Jamet said.

With stores and historic cinemas closing along the avenue due to rising rents and falling sales, “innovation is an absolute necessity”, he said.

The 1,800-page plan seeks to reverse the decline while balancing the needs of locals and tourists.

The committee estimates the cost will be €250 million, but Jamet said the additional tax revenue generated by the changes would be enough to finance all or some of the project.

“These are not costs but investments.”

A self-proclaimed Paris “superfan” who has visited from Pakistan 22 times, 33-year-old Jawwad Channa said he always visits the Champs-Elysees, this time bringing along four friends looking forward to hitting the stores.

“It’s very crowded, but the shopping is amazing,” said his friend Ali Syed, 32.

Shopping will remain a mainstay, but central to the committee’s plan is adapting the avenue to global warming and reducing its carbon footprint by a third over 50 years, with plans to reduce traffic by increasing pedestrian space and doubling bike lanes.

‘Revamp the neighbourhood’

The committee also aims to lower the avenue’s average temperature by one to seven degrees Celsius, creating a “climate sanctuary” during the city’s increasingly common heatwaves.

Proposals include planting 160 trees, installing seating and fountains, and transforming 20 hectares of unkempt gardens into a “true Parisian park”.

Symphony concerts, a “quality” Christmas market and flower stalls are also part of a push for “year-round” cultural offerings to “revamp the neighbourhood”.

Sunday’s picnic, at which thousands turned out on the “world’s largest tablecloth”, came after an event last year when France’s brainiest bookworms battled it out in a mass spelling test at 1,779 desks set out along the avenue.

With France’s presidential palace and National Assembly nearby, security remains a concern, though the proposal includes plans to increase the police presence and establish a 24-hour “health and safety” watch.

“We are going to discuss this with all partners,” said Paris’s deputy mayor Emmanuel Gregoire, adding that discussions would first take place with the police.

“The idea is Paris’s mayor could announce a broad outline in the second half of 2024,” Gregoire said.

Gabin Contentin, 21, said big changes were needed for him and other locals to be lured back.

But if all goes well, he predicted, the Champs-Elysees can “once again be the most beautiful avenue in the world”.

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