SHARE
COPY LINK
For members

SPANISH TRADITIONS

Why does Spain bury a sardine to mark the start of Lent?

Every carnival season in Spain, mock funeral parades with weeping widows take place for the ceremonial burial of a fish.

Why does Spain bury a sardine to mark the start of Lent?
The Spanish tradition of the Burial of the Sardine. Photo: CHRISTOPHE SIMON / AFP

It’s no secret that most Spaniards need little reason to have a party, nor is the fact that many of their fiestas are born from bizarre traditions and myths.

The Spanish custom of entierro de la sardina is no different, and involves the ceremonial burying of a sardine to signify the end of the carnival season and the beginning of Lent.

It takes place on Ash Wednesday (February 14th in 2024) in places such as Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Murcia, Alicante, Madrid, San Sebastián and many more cities and towns across Spain.

READ ALSO: The ultimate guide to Spain’s craziest carnivals

You may think that this is simply yet another example of the Spanish finding any old excuse for a fiesta – and in some cases, you may be right – but in reality, the custom is steeped in history and religious meaning.

The ritual was immortalised by Goya in the 1810s and is now celebrated across Spain and its former Latin American colonies.

So what is el entierro de la sardina and why do Spaniards bury or cremate a sardine?

‘El entierro de la sardina’, painting by Francisco Goya

In Spanish culture, the sardine represents the past. Its burial signifies forgetting the hardship of the long winter months and facing the future with renewed hope and optimism. What is buried will, it is hoped, resurface in a positive way in the future.

The burial is often accompanied by a sardine-themed parade of some description, sometimes involving a mock funeral procession of widows (men and women both clad in black female attire) who weep for the dead sardine.

Music, dancing, beer, wine and tapas are enjoyed in the street as a final blow-out before Lent.

Sardine effigies (sometimes giant ones) are burnt to represent the symbolic destruction of all the hedonism and vice enjoyed during the Carnival period, and as a precursor to the forthcoming moderation of Lent.

There are of course some festive variations. In some Murcian towns, the sardine is buried before Carnival, not after or during, supposedly so the approaching self-restraint of Lent is not shocked by the decadence of Carnival.

A giant sardine is ready for a fire burial in Murcia. Photo: Bertobarc90/Wikipedia (CC BY-SA 4.0)
 

When did Spain’s sardine burial tradition begin?

As with many quirky Spanish traditions, the origins of el entierro de la sardina are contested.

Many claim the tradition has pagan undertones, as procession floats are often named and styled after mythological Roman figures like Apollo and Neptune.

Others believe the ceremony originally began with King Carlos III in 1759, when meat (not fish) was buried underground because it cannot be eaten during Lent.

Carlos III had rewarded his hardworking servants with a shipment of sardines as a final gift before the start of Lent, but was shocked to find they had already gone off and, horrified by the smell, ordered that they all be buried in the nearby Casa de Campo park in Madrid. 

The burial was accompanied by a spoof funeral procession with whistling and grieving, and the ritual spread quickly across Spain and replaced various other festivals that celebrated the end of winter.

Others believe the origin of the fiesta comes from a group of 19th-century Madrid students who, for some reason, decided it a good idea to stage the satirical funeral procession of a sardine in order to represent abstinence and fasting.

Whatever the origin, the entierro de la sardina is a typical Spanish event full of food, wine, dancing, music, mythology, religion and folklore, and is not one to be missed.

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.

DISCOVER SPAIN

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez’s Feria del Caballo

The swish of a flamenco skirt, the soft beat of hooves drumming on the roads and the smell of sweet sherry, these are the senses you'll experience at Jerez de la Frontera’s Feria del Caballo in May, a worthy alternative to Seville's busy April Fair.

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez's Feria del Caballo

There’s nothing quite so Andalusian as attending a local feria or festival, comprising all the elements you’d expect from this quintessential area of Spain – flamenco, horses and lots of food and drink.

While the most famous feria is Seville’s Feria de Abril, it may not actually be the best place to experience your first one. This is primarily because in Seville, visitors are not allowed to enter many of the so-called casetas (tents or marquees) where the main events such as music and dancing take place.

These are reserved for private companies or are by invitation only. By visiting the Feria del Caballo in Jerez de la Frontera instead, you’ll be able to enter almost all the casetas for free and not have to worry about jostling for space with so many other tourists, as it’s mainly locals who attend.

Horses wait in the shade at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

Jerez lies approximately 90km south of Seville and is renowned throughout the country for three things – horses, flamenco and sherry. It forms one point of the famed Sherry Triangle, where the majority of Spain’s sherry or jerez is produced and is also home to the prestigious Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre (Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art). This is where some of Spain’s most talented horses perform and dance with their riders.

READ ALSO: The surprising connection between Spanish sherry and the British and Irish

While the town also holds a sherry festival and a flamenco festival, the Feria del Caballo is where all three elements are brought together.

This year the Feria del Caballo takes place from May 4th to the 11th, 2024. Like previous years the main fair will take place in the Parque González Hontoria, just north of the city centre.

Traditional trajes de flamenco in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox
 

During the day time, there are several dressage competitions taking place, then as late afternoon and evening draws near, the whole town heads to the fairground for an evening of partying and drinking.

Everyone dons their traditional trajes de flamenco or flamenco costumes, and horse-drawn carriages take revellers for rides along the dusty streets, lined with casetas, decorations and barrels of sherry.

By night the whole fairground is aglow with twinkly multicoloured lights. Flamenco music blares from each caseta and everyone shows off their Sevillanas moves. Sevillanas is a traditional folk dance from the region of Seville, which could be mistaken for flamenco to the untrained eye.

Jerez’s Feria del Caballo by night. Photo: Esme Fox

The order of the day is a rebujito, the feria’s classic tipple which is a mixture of sherry and lemonade. It might not sound great, but it can get quite addictive.

Next to the park, which has been turned into a mini festival city within itself is a traditional funfair complete with rides such as twirling tea cups and bumper cars, as well as games from coconut shys to fishing for plastic ducks and mock shooting ranges.

Dressage competition at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

The history of the Feria del Caballo goes back over 500 years. In 1264 Alfonso X granted the town two annual duty-free fairs, one in April and the other in September/October. By the Middle Ages, this turned into commercial livestock fairs that took place around the same months. 

However, it wasn’t until 1955 when the Domecq Sherry family came up with the idea of a festival focused on the city’s connections with horses.

Today, Jerez de la Frontera offers one of the best places to experience a typical Andalusian feria

SHOW COMMENTS