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Sweden’s real Michelin star foodie heaven might surprise you

Copenhagen and Stockholm are undeniably trailblazers within the New Nordic cuisine movement. Not to mention both capitals are home to ethnic restaurants catering to every taste. But an argument could be made that Scandinavia’s ultimate destination for dining may, in fact, be Malmö.

Published: 13 March 2019 09:01 CET

Sweden’s real Michelin star foodie heaven might surprise you

Photo: Mats Vollmer//Instagram

The city may not be able to match the celebrity of its neighbor across the Öresund or the size of the Swedish capital, but Malmö has a fine dining scene that rivals anything in the Nordics. As evidenced by the three restaurants recognized by the recently-released Michelin Nordic Guide, Malmö’s dining reputation isn’t exactly a secret.

Experience more of Malmö here

But still it remains often overlooked and underestimated, which is just fine with local two-starred chef Mats Vollmer.

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Une publication partagée par Mats Vollmer (@matsvollmer) le 4 Nov. 2016 à 6 :55 PDT

“We are always looked at as the underdog. Nobody in Sweden expects anything from Malmö, and that works to our advantage. It’s like David versus Goliath. Even within Sweden it’s like a well-kept secret,” he said.

Vollmer’s, the restaurant Mats runs with his brother Ebbe, retained its two Michelin star rating in the new guide which was released on February 18th. The recognition has helped boost not only Vollmer’s but the whole Malmö dining scene.

“We never thought we’d get a star when we opened in 2011. When the 2015 Nordic guide came out and added Malmö, the international reputation of our restaurant and the entire city really grew because of that international stamp of approval,” Vollmer said.

Vollmer’s is not the only Malmö restaurant to get the venerated food guide’s endorsement. Both Bloom in the Park, overlooking the lake in the city’s popular Pildammsparken, and SAV, just a short ten-minute jaunt from downtown, can boast one Michelin star. Located in a historic building along the canal, the restaurant Sture lost its Michelin star this year but remains one of the city’s most popular places to eat thanks to its fusion of French and Nordic cuisines.

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Une publication partagée par Mats Vollmer (@matsvollmer) le 26 Janv. 2018 à 12 :05 PST

More budget-conscious diners, meanwhile, also have two Bib Gourmand options in Bastard and Namu.

Cooperation with local producers

Anna Berghe, a food critic and Malmö food tour guide, has witnessed – and tasted – Malmö’s culinary success firsthand. She said the trendy downtown nose-to-tail spot really helped put the city on the foodie destination map.

Experience more of Malmö here

“Around ten years ago the restaurant scene in Malmö was quite stripped and had been stationary for quite some time. I would say that the opening of Bastard with chef Andreas Dahlberg changed the food scene and opened doors to other chefs dreaming of a place where the nose-to-tail concept would dominate, cooperation with local producers offering seasonal products would be commonplace and natural wine from smaller wine makers would dominate your glass,” she said.

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Une publication partagée par Anna Berghe (@annaberghe) le 21 Août 2018 à 3 :16 PDT

The sense of local cooperation that comes from working with area producers and winemakers to source Malmö’s menus also extends to chefs who could just as easily be bitter rivals. While this is partly due to the city’s relatively small size, Berghe said it is also because of a unique Malmö mindset.

“The atmosphere is very relaxed here,” Berghe said. “It is quite a small town even though it’s the third-largest in Sweden, but what characterizes it is that there is good atmosphere and cooperation between the chefs and a great deal of humility.”

With just over 300,000 inhabitants, one could argue that Malmö’s food scene is bigger, better and more varied than it should be. But the smaller size works to the advantage of diners, both the locals and international food tourists.

“The diversity in Malmö is fantastic due to its inhabitants from cultures all around the world. You can have a falafel for 25 kronor and a 20-course tasting menu for just under 2,000 kronor. Compared to Copenhagen and Stockholm, Malmö is still a very cheap town to go out and eat in relation to the quality you get on plate and in glass,” Berghe said.

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Une publication partagée par Bloom In The Park (@bloominthepark) le 18 Janv. 2018 à 10 :25 PST

Vollmer, who stressed that he’s “not a pretentious type of guy” when it comes to eating out, said some of his favorite local dining options include Kvarteret Åkern and the café at Katrinetorp. Berghe’s list of local recommendations is as long as you might expect from someone so intimately in tune with the Malmö dining scene. In addition to Bastard, which she called “an institution in Malmö”, she offered plenty of options including Lyran, Västergatan, Riket, Malmö Saluhall, Mitt Möllan Food Court, Plantmagic Kitchen and Soi 29, to name just a few.

While not all of Malmö’s offerings can carry a Michelin star, the city’s condensed culinary scene means that a fine dining restaurant is always just a stone’s throw away.

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Une publication partagée par SAV (@savrestaurang) le 10 Août 2017 à 7 :26 PDT

Deviating from the typical Scandinavian humbleness (just Google the ‘Law of Jante’ if you’re not familiar), Vollmer took credit for his role in putting Malmö on the foodie map.

Experience more of Malmö here

“When we got two stars people were like: ‘Really, there’s a two-star restaurant in little Malmö?’,” he said. “When my brother and I opened the restaurant, we wanted to give back to Malmö in a way and I am very proud of helping to change the image of the city.”

This article was produced by The Local Creative Studio and sponsored by Malmö stad.

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How to grow your own fruits and vegetables in Sweden

Know your growing zone

Sweden is split into eight different growing zones, known as växtzoner in Swedish, with one being the mildest zone in the far south of the country and eight being the harshest, in the far north.

The easiest way to figure out which zone you live in is to search your address on a digital growing zone chart like this one from the Swedish Garden Association.

There are two “bonus” zones too, which you’re unlikely to see on plant labels: zone zero, which refers to extra mild conditions in zone one, like a sheltered south-facing garden or the climate inside an unheated greenhouse, and the fjällzon or zone nine, which is found in mountain regions.

Lots of fruit trees can handle snow, for example, but not all of them will survive the winters in harsher, colder zones.

“Apple trees or fruit trees will survive snow,” British gardener and cider maker John Taylor, known for presenting Swedish gardening show Trädgårdstider (Garden Times), told The Local.

“You can grow all kinds of apples, pears, plums, cherries, we can grow edible quince in southern Sweden, so there’s a bunch of fruit trees which will survive, but it depends what rootstock they’re on – that’s called grundstam in Swedish,” he explained.

“There’s one rootstock called B9 that survives down to minus 40, because it’s from Russia, then there’s another called M106, and that probably doesn’t want to live in the depths of Norrland.”

Buy plants local to you

An easy way to make sure the plant you’re planning on buying is going to survive in your zone is by sourcing it from a local plant nursery or garden centre, as they won’t sell plants that can’t handle the local climate.

“There’s a nursery in the north of Sweden and Finland called Blomkvists, they sell lots of fruit varieties which will survive up there,” Taylor said. “You can grow pretty much anything you want up there, just as we can [in Skåne, southern Sweden], but it will be different varieties that taste different and will survive the frost.”

You won’t be able to grow Mediterranean fruits like lemons or oranges in Sweden unless you bring them inside during the winter, although you should be able to grow peaches or nectarines in most of the country.

“The further up in the country you go, the further north you are or the further away from the coast, the harsher the climate becomes, so you might need to have them on a south-facing wall or in a greenhouse,” Taylor said.

Think outside the box

Although the growing season in Sweden may be shorter than it is further south, there are still a number of crops from warmer climates that do surprisingly well.

“People don’t really grow cucumbers outside here, I don’t think they realise that you can actually grow them outside,” Taylor said. “Tomatoes, too. You don’t need a greenhouse, you just stick them in the ground, they’re basically a weed – you’ll get so many you won’t know what to do with them.”

Sweetcorn, for example, performs well in a Swedish climate, Taylor said, although Swedes more often grow it as a feed crop for pigs.

You can also test things by trying to build a microclimate so you can grow things that are one or even two growing zones away from yours. Usually this is done by providing shelter from the wind and the weather using fences, hedges or by planting near buildings, as well as providing protection during the winter.

And if you’re pushed for space, look into companion planting, where you can grow multiple plants which complement each other in the same space.

One example of this is the “three sisters”: corn, climbing beans (or peas), and squash. The corn provides a support for the beans or peas, which anchor the corn in high winds while fixing nitrogen in the soil, while the squash’s large leaves provide shade for the soil, preventing it from drying out.

Don’t be put off just because you don’t have any outside space

Thinking outside the box applies to balconies too.

“If you’re in a built-up area, you will get reflected light from other buildings, so even if you’re on an east-facing balcony, you should be able to grow a lot of stuff. North is a bit more tricky, but east and west are probably better than south as you’re not getting hammered by the sun all day,” Taylor said.

You should be able to grow things like tomatoes, cucumbers and flowers, but it’s important to get hold of good soil and replenish it each year, so your plants have enough nutrients.

“Anybody with a balcony can grow pretty much the same that you can in a garden, you just have to get the soil up there and you always have to fertilise, the soil becomes nutrient deficient after one season.”

“But if you’re prepared to get the soil up on your balcony you can grow anything, even fruit trees. They will be smaller and stunted, and won’t give as much fruit – I’ve done it myself – so don’t see it as an obstacle, see it as a possibility.”

Kale and tomatoes growing on a balcony. Photo: Johan Nilsson/TT

Take inspiration from Swedish growers

Thinking outside the box doesn’t mean that you should completely ignore what all your Swedish neighbours are doing. If you’re not sure what to plant in your garden or what fruit and veg you should try to grow, take a look at what other people who live near you are growing.

You might also come across some crops you’ve never tried before which work well in a Swedish climate, like Alpine strawberries (smultron), honeyberries (blåbärstry), wild garlic (ramslök) or sea buckthorn (havtorn).

This doesn’t just apply to varieties, but also where you plant them in your garden. Some crops need full sun, some work best in shade, and others, like asparagus, can grow tall and cast a shadow over your garden.

“You want a south-facing location for all fruit, and berries – check out what your neighbours are doing,” Taylor said.

If you don’t want tall plants to cast a shadow over other crops, see if you can plant them at the northernmost edge of your garden, while making sure that sun and soil conditions are still optimal. Blueberries, for example, need acidic soil to thrive, meaning you will probably need to amend your soil if planting in the ground, or even plant them in containers.

Think about what you want to do with your harvest

This may seem obvious, but it’s important to plant what you like to eat, too. If you hate the aniseedy, licorice-y taste of fennel, why bother growing it?

You should also choose the variety of crop based on what you’re going to use it for. Do you want to make pickles with your cucumbers, or are you going to eat them on salads? Do you want cherry tomatoes for snacking on, or big beef tomatoes for making sauces?

“Think ‘what am I going to do with my harvest’,” Taylor said. “Am I going to juice it? Am I going to preserve it? Am I going to make cider with it, for example?”

Apples, for example, can range from sweet eating apples to tart cooking apples, so make sure you do your research before you commit to buying an apple tree. Most varieties exist in English-speaking countries, so you should be able to search the name of the variety online and find some information in a language you understand, if you don’t speak Swedish.

“Patience is a virtue,” he added. “A lot of fruit trees are going to take two or three years, or even more, to give a harvest. So you have to have patience.”

Learn to deal with the Swedish weather

Many areas of Sweden along the coast or in the south of the country can get windy, which you’ll have to learn to deal with.

“How to deal with the wind? You can’t,” Taylor said. “We cannot affect this, we are powerless.”

“What you have to do is plant them in areas where there’s less wind, usually behind large buildings.”

Some plants simply won’t survive the wind, so either you plant them close to buildings, protect them, or accept that you’re restricted in what you can grow.

Make sure to provide supports for crops which will grow tall, like sunflowers, peas, beans and sweetcorn, and tie these down well or bury them deep in the ground, so summer storms can’t blow them away.

Listen to the full interview with John Taylor in The Local’s Sweden in Focus Extra podcast for Membership+ subscribers. Out on Wednesday, May 8th.

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