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What you need to know before attending a Viennese ball

Ball season is in full swing in Vienna - and to the uninitiated a Vienna ball can seem like an intimidating event. But they aren’t the stuffy, elitist affairs you might think, and can be a whole lot of fun. Here’s what you need to know before accepting an invitation, or purchasing a ticket to your first ball.

What you need to know before attending a Viennese ball
A scene from the Kaffeesieder Ball. Photo: Andreas Bruckner

The Local spoke to Vienna local Matthias Brandstetter, who’s something of an expert on ball etiquette. He used to be a dance teacher and helped organise balls in Vienna, as well as hosting a Viennese ball in Thailand. He’s now running a real estate website called toprop.com

Here’s his tips for making the most out of a Viennese ball.

Do master some dance steps.

Most Austrian school students attend dancing lessons to prepare for what is the equivalent of a prom. Brandstetter says it’s a good idea to familiarise yourself with the Viennese Waltz (easier if you’re a woman, as you don’t have to lead) but he recommends also practising the foxtrot and the boogie as these tend to be common dances at most balls. The bigger Viennese balls will have an orchestra and a big band, so you can enjoy a variety of dances. At midnight, it’s common to dance the fin de siècle quadrille, which peaked in popularity in the late 1800s. If you want to go to a ball but don’t have a partner to dance with, you can even hire one! These are known as ‘Taxitänzer’ (and tend to be male). Some balls will even employ a Taxitänzer for the night. 

Do dress appropriately.

It will say what the dress code is on your ball ticket. Usually it’s a tuxedo or white tie (Frack) for men, and a formal, floor-skimming dress for women. “It’s awkward to show up to a ball wearing a dress that’s too short, and people do get sent home if they’re not dressed properly,” Brandstetter says.

Men are required to wear bow ties, rather than ties, and it’s usually mandatory for men to carry white gloves if they are wearing full evening dress. Brandstetter explains that in former times men wore white gloves at balls as it was considered rude to touch a lady with your bare hands, especially if you had become sweaty from dancing!

Two Viennese beauties at the Styrian Ball. Photo: Denise Pavlik

Do have fun!

Remember to enjoy the night. It’s about the memories you take home with you, not how good you are on the dance floor, Brandstetter says. “Have a look at what everybody else is doing and join in the fun.” At a smaller, less formal ball this could mean joining in some riotous disco dancing or limbo at some point during the night.

Get tipsy, but not drunk.

The food and drink at most Vienna balls tends to be on the expensive side – which is good as it’s not the done thing to get roaring drunk at a ball and pass out on the dance floor. Young Viennese people have been known to carry a hip flask filled with something strong but that’s generally a no-no.

Don’t drive to the ball.

Brandstetter recommends booking a taxi or taking the U-Bahn (subway train). Part of the fun of the Vienna ball season is seeing people parading around the city in their finest clothes. It’s also nice to go to a traditional coffee house on the way home for breakfast – many will stay open all night during ball season, or open very early. Brandstetter says Cafe Schwarzenberg is a favourite, as is Cafe Landtmann – but do make a reservation.

Brandstetter’s favourite ball is the Kaffeesieder Ball (which takes place on February 17th this year), and honours the guild of Coffee House Owners. He says it’s one of Vienna’s most beautiful and atmospheric balls, held in the imperial Hofburg palace. “The whole Hofburg is open and you can really explore it. But it’s not incredibly formal and has a down-to-earth feel. You can buy a ticket at most coffee houses in Vienna.” (Tickets cost €135). 

The recent Styrian Ball at the Hofburg. Photo: Shoshana Stark

He recommends choosing a ball that you’re interested in. There’s a ball in every Vienna district, for every organisation – from the Red Cross, to the fire brigade, and the lawyers and scientists guilds. The smaller balls tend to be less formal and elegant but are more about dancing, meeting people, and networking. The very formal balls, such as the legendary Opera Ball (23rd February), can be impossible to get a ticket to and are of course more exclusive and expensive.

For a different but very Austrian experience, Brandstetter recommends the Hunters Ball or Jägerball (30th January). Everyone wears traditional Austrian dress, a Dirndl for women and a Trachtenanzug for men. Brandstetter says these tend to be very flattering to most shapes and sizes, and are also more comfortable than formal evening wear, so you can enjoy the dancing even more.

The Bonbon Ball (24th February) is held at the Wiener Konzerthaus and is known for its fun and informal ambiance. It tends to attract a younger crowd.

At the Vienna Boys' Choir Ball (27th January) guests not only dance to the waltz but also to plenty of samba and bossa nova, as this year's host country is Brazil. And, of course, the Vienna Boys' Choir opens the ball with a performance.

 

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Vienna Festival director Milo Rau hits back at anti-Semitism accusations

One of the latest events in Europe to be hit with accusations of anti-Semitism, the Vienna Festival kicks off Friday, with its new director, Milo Rau, urging that places of culture be kept free of the "antagonism" of the Israel-Hamas war while still tackling difficult issues.

Vienna Festival director Milo Rau hits back at anti-Semitism accusations

As the conflict in Gaza sharply polarises opinion, “we must be inflexible” in defending the free exchange of ideas and opinions, the acclaimed Swiss director told AFP in an interview this week.

“I’m not going to take a step aside… If we let the antagonism of the war and of our society seep into our cultural and academic institutions, we will have completely lost,” said the 47-year-old, who will inaugurate the Wiener Festwochen, a festival of theatre, concerts, opera, film and lectures that runs until June 23rd in the Austrian capital and that has taken on a more political turn under his tenure.

The Swiss director has made his name as a provocateur, whether travelling to Moscow to stage a re-enactment of the trial of Russian protest punk band Pussy Riot, using children to play out the story of notorious Belgian paedophile Marc Dutroux, or trying to recruit Islamic State jihadists as actors.

Completely ridiculous 

The Vienna Festival has angered Austria’s conservative-led government — which is close to Israel — by inviting Greek former finance minister Yanis Varoufakis and French Nobel Prize winner for literature Annie Ernaux, both considered too critical of Israel.

A speech ahead of the festival on Judenplatz (Jews’ Square) by Israeli-German philosopher Omri Boehm — who has called for replacing Israel with a bi-national state for Arabs and Jews —  also made noise.

“Who will be left to invite?  Every day, there are around ten articles accusing us of being anti-Semitic, saying that our flag looks like the Palestinian flag, completely ridiculous things,” Rau said, as he worked from a giant bed which has been especially designed by art students and installed at the festival office.

Hamas’ bloody October 7th assault on southern Israel and the devastating Israeli response have stoked existing rancour over the Middle East conflict between two diametrically opposed camps in Europe.

In this climate, “listening to the other side is already treachery,” lamented the artistic director.

“Wars begin in this impossibility of listening, and I find it sad that we Europeans are repeating war at our level,” he said.

As head of also the NTGent theatre in the Belgian city of Ghent, he adds his time currently “is divided between a pro-Palestinian country and a pro-Israeli country,” or between “colonial guilt” in Belgium and “genocide guilt” in Austria, Adolf Hitler’s birthplace.

Institutional revolution

The “Free Republic of Vienna” will be proclaimed on Friday as this year’s Vienna Festival celebrates. according to Rau, “a second modernism, democratic, open to the world” in the city of the father of psychoanalysis, Sigmund Freud, and artist and symbolist master Gustav Klimt.

Some 50,000 people are expected to attend the opening ceremony on the square in front of Vienna’s majestic neo-Gothic town hall.

With Rau describing it as an “institutional revolution” and unlike any other festival in Europe, the republic has its own anthem, its own flag and a council made up of Viennese citizens, as well as honorary members, including Varoufakis and Ernaux, who will participate virtually in the debates.

The republic will also have show trials — with real lawyers, judges and politicians participating — on three weekends.

Though there won’t be any verdicts, Rau himself will be in the dock to embody “the elitist art system”, followed by the republic of Austria and finally by the anti-immigrant far-right Freedom Party (FPOe), which leads polls in the Alpine EU member ahead of September national elections.

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