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‘We want people to realize it’s okay to think outside the box’

Carolynn Baker and Pearly Teo have opened their own café in Gothenburg, and it's nothing like traditional Swedish fika.

'We want people to realize it's okay to think outside the box'
Carolynn Baker and Pearly Teo have brought a slice of Alice in Wonderland to Sweden. Photo: Down the Rabbit Hole Café

As many of The Local's international readers may agree, being thrust into the unknown by moving to a new country like, for example, Sweden sometimes feels like you have fallen down the rabbit hole.

But for two Alice in Wonderland fans from the US and Singapore, this is exactly where they wanted to be.

So when Carolynn Baker and Pearly Teo opened a new café in Gothenburg, they both agreed to turn it into a wonderful, chaotic mishmash of colours, flavours and most of all, fun.

“We don't take life so seriously, we want to encourage people to be more creative and embrace it, realize that it's okay to think outside the box,” says 29-year-old Baker, a passionate ice tea drinker from Texas, who moved to Sweden seven years ago.

She and Teo speak to The Local just a few weeks after opening the doors to their Down the Rabbit Hole Café.


Photo: Down the Rabbit Hole Café

“We're both fans of Alice in Wonderland and wanted to do a new take on Swedish 'fika'. A lot of cafés serve the same thing – coffee and cinnamon buns – and we wanted something whimsical and different, not a normal café,” explains Baker. “A creative experience.”

She and Teo met when Baker was hosting a convention dedicated to Japanese Lolita fashion – dressing up as Japanese Victorian-style dolls – in Sweden. Teo, who was working as a food vendor at the time, provided the catering for the event.

They quickly became friends and after Teo, 29, who came to Sweden from Singapore almost three years ago, told Baker about her dream to open a café, they eventually also became business partners.

“I wanted to start a food truck, but because of all the red tape in the city, it was actually easier to start a café,” says Teo. “We started looking for café spaces early this year, but in Sweden it's important to have a good location because people don't want to travel.”

“Then we had to get all the paperwork signed, but it was close to the summer holidays, so people stopped working – you know what it's like in Sweden,” she laughs.

“They're like 'bye!',” Baker interjects about the Nordic habit of taking at least four weeks off in summer.


Photo: Down the Rabbit Hole Café

With talented self-trained chef Teo mainly in charge of the menu, the Down the Rabbit Hole Café serves a mix of Asia-inspired lunches a well as a huge variety of tea and cupcakes.

“A lot of foreigners here start up businesses because they can't find jobs. I don't actually have a degree in cooking, so a lot of Swedish places wouldn't hire me,” says Teo.

The food is mostly vegetarian, and they have made a conscious effort to provide plenty of vegan options as well. The furniture is provided by their friends at Recreate Design Company in Gothenburg, which upcycles scrap material to give it a new lease of life.

“A lot of people have loved the idea and the food,” says Baker. “It's been fun to make different cool recipes. Making them vegan has been a fun challenge.”

“I love the dumplings. We make vegan homemade soy mince dumplings. My favourite sweets are the matcha cupcakes,” she adds. “It's all ecological, fair trade, locally produced stuff – my neighbours have a farm so we buy the eggs from them.”


Photo: Down the Rabbit Hole Café

For now, the pair are busy being wrapped up in the experience of running their own café, seeing its popularity grow by word of mouth and enjoying the familial community feel of the area (their opening hours aren't set in stone and if they feel like staying open longer on any given day they often do).

But that will not stop them from making plans for the future. “We do eventually want to open a restaurant, or a food truck in summer, or maybe other themed cafés,” says Teo, adding that their philosophy is to seize the moment. “Life is short and you don't know what's going to happen with all the things going on in the world.”

“Alice in Wonderland takes you back to being innocent no matter your age,” adds Baker, who says she feels integrated in the Gothenburg community and at home in Sweden. “We have to remember to embrace that.”

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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