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FOOD AND DRINK

‘Shame’: Outrage in Italy as Heinz launches canned pasta carbonara

Anger erupted in Italy on Thursday after US food manufacturing giant Heinz said it will launch canned spaghetti carbonara.

A chef prepares a traditional pasta carbonara dish during Italy's annual Carbonara Day in Rome
A chef prepares a traditional pasta carbonara dish during Italy's annual Carbonara Day in Rome. Photo by Andreas SOLARO / AFP

The product, which was set to go on sale in UK supermarkets this September with a £2 price tag, contained “pasta in a creamy sauce with pancetta” and was hailed as “the perfect solution for a quick and satisfying meal at home” by Heinz Meals Director Alessandra de Dreuille.

Heinz’s announcement was met with horror by Italian cooks on Thursday.

Italian chef and TV personality Gianfranco Vissani said that Heinz “should be ashamed of themselves,” accusing them of “destroying Italian culture and our cuisine”.

READ ALSO: Why do Italians get so angry if you mess with classic recipes?

Rome’s Glass Hostaria chef Cristina Bowerman called it “a horrendous idea” and “a bastardisation of our cuisine”.

Speaking to The Times, the chef of Rome’s Michelin-starred Pipero restaurant, Alessandro Pipero, compared the new canned product to “cat food”, whereas Ciara Tassoni, who manages Italian restaurant Bottega Prelibato in east London, called it “a disgrace” which “couldn’t be any further from authentic carbonara”.

Originally from the central Lazio region, pasta carbonara (or pasta alla carbonara in Italian) is traditionally made with guanciale (cured pork jowl), pecorino cheese and eggs.

READ ALSO: What are the unbreakable rules for making real pasta carbonara?

But the classic dish has been at the centre of numerous culinary controversies in recent years after international cooks launched unorthodox versions of the original recipe.

Italian cooks and social media users expressed outrage in February 2023 after the New York Times featured a ‘tomato carbonara’ recipe replacing pork cheek and pecorino with bacon and parmesan and adding tomato sauce to the eggs.

In February 2020, British celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay’s creative take on the original carbonara sparked uproar on Italian social media platforms, with one user calling it “a joke”.

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MONEY

Six key tips to save money on groceries in Italy

Grocery shopping in Italy has become more expensive in recent years, but there are a few easy ways to get more bang for your buck.

Six key tips to save money on groceries in Italy

Buying food in Italy has become more and more expensive in recent years. 

Grocery prices in Italian supermarkets were up by 6 percent in March 2024 compared to the same month last year, according to data from national statistics institute Istat.

But the upward trend has been going on for longer, particularly in relation to basic foodstuffs. 

Between February 2019 and February 2024, the price of extra virgin oil increased by 81 percent on average, dried pasta by 35 percent, eggs by 25 percent, and tomato puree and fresh milk by 41 percent and 21 percent respectively, according to consumer association Federconsumatori.

But as prices seem to continue growing year after year, there are several ways to save money on groceries in Italy – all of which can be paired with universally valid approaches such as planning meals, not shopping on an empty stomach and buying unbranded items.

Buy seasonal produce

Cooking and eating seasonal food is popular in Italy and it is far from rare for supermarkets and local market stalls to update their stock accordingly. 

Not only are seasonal fruit and vegetables more flavoursome (and arguably healthier), they can also be up to 30 percent cheaper than out-of-season fare. 

That said, it is becoming slightly more common for out-of-season products to sneak their way onto supermarket shelves. 

Luckily though, there are several seasonal food guides, including this from consumer association AltroConsumo, that can lend you a helping hand.

Supermarkets vs local markets

Speaking of supermarkets and local markets, there is often a general assumption that the latter are cheaper. 

But much depends on exactly what you’re looking to buy. 

According to data from food magazine Agrodolce, meat and dairy products are cheaper to buy at the supermarket, while fish, fruit and vegetables are cheaper to buy from local fishmongers and greengrocers respectively. 

Compare supermarket prices

Compared to local markets, supermercati have one advantage which can allow for significant savings: prices are far easier to compare.

Discount stores iN’s mercato and Aldi were ranked the cheapest supermarkets in Italy in 2024 by personal finance website Money.it

If scrimping on quality is not an option, the fourth-cheapest supermarket chain, Eurospin, ranked first out of all of Italy’s discount stores for quality. 

Lidl is often ranked as one of the cheapest supermarkets in Italy.

Lidl is often ranked as one of the cheapest supermarkets in Italy. Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP

Take advantage of technology

Downloading apps is another way to find good deals. 

App PromoQui allows users to compare the prices of items across supermarkets up and down the country, and offers regularly updated promotional leaflets, sparing you from having to scroll through each supermarket’s website to find them. 

READ ALSO: What your choice of Italian supermarket says about you

If you’re concerned about food waste, app Too Good To Go, connects customers to restaurants and stores that have unsold food so they can purchase said food at a discounted price.

Use lunch vouchers

Whether you hold a full or part-time contract, if you’re in employment in Italy, you may have access to buoni pasto, which are vouchers handed out by employers as a way for employees to save on their lunches.

Conveniently, besides being redeemable at local restaurants or bars for your lunch break, they can also be used at supermarkets to save on your weekly food shop.

Explore the discount section 

Almost all supermarkets around Italy have a discount section storing both refrigerated and unrefrigerated goods, which tend to be put out a day before their expiration date. 

This is particularly convenient for meat supplies, which can be bought, put in the freezer and then thawed when needed.

Purchasing fruit and vegetables which appear ‘wonky’ is another way to spend less. There is generally nothing wrong with these items, except for a few visible defects, which lead supermarkets to sell them at a discounted price.

Do you have any other tips to save money when grocery shopping in Italy? Let us know in the comments section below.

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