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LIFE IN SPAIN

What’s closed and what stays open during August in Spain?

It’s common knowledge that Spain goes on holiday in August, city centres empty out as everyone heads for the slightly cooler coastal or mountainous areas, but which businesses close completely and which will continue open?

What's closed and what stays open during August in Spain?
A sign in a shop window in Spain reads "Closed, if it was up to us, we'd always be open".

Before the pandemic, Spain’s biggest cities lost up to 80 percent of their population over the summer, and it’s gradually heading that way again.

This means far fewer locals in Spanish cities over August, although many are replaced by tourists. 

Around 18 percent of businesses in Spain close during August according to Madrid-based business management consultant Grant Thornton. 

That means that almost one in five businesses shut their doors and shut up for the month or at least part of the month

Some believe it’s a risk to close for so long, but the truth is that the turnover of many businesses decreases enormously during August, falling by up to 50 percent, according to the Spanish Stock Exchanges and Markets (BME).

So, in some situations it may not be worth it financially to stay open.

And there’s also the undeniable fact that Spaniards tend to place a lot of importance on time off from work, apart from the average 30 days of paid holiday leave they get.

Oh, and we can’t forget that it’s absolutely suffocating in August across much of the country, not exactly ideal conditions to work in.

So what will be open and what will close in August 2024?

Generally speaking, larger business and chains or franchises will stay open, while smaller independent ones may close.

The location of a business will also affect whether it stays open in August or not. More often than not, businesses in tourist-heavy areas will continue operating, while ones in outer lying neighbourhoods will shut up shop.

Businesses in in-land towns and cities are also more likely to close than ones on the coast that generally experience busy Augusts.

Reduced hours

It’s worth nothing that those businesses that do stay open may operate reduced hours or close early. 

Some companies implement what’s known as jornada intensiva or intensive work days. This is when they work uninterrupted, without a break for lunch, but get to leave work early.  This means typically these businesses would operate from 8am to 3pm or from 8:30am to 3:30pm during the summer. However, jornada intensiva usually applies to office workers and others who don’t work for an establishment that’s open to the public. 

READ ALSO: Do I have to take most of my annual leave in August in Spain?

Implications for tourists 

If you’re a tourist, these closures won’t typically affect you too much. Popular restaurants, attractions, museums and hotels will mostly be operating as usual.

If you’re visiting small towns and villages or establishments off-the-beaten path in big cities, you may find some places to be closed, however. Some museums in small towns may also have reduced operating hours.

Implications for residents

But if you’re a resident in Spain, you may find August to be slightly frustrating, particularly if you’re staying in the big city while seemingly everyone else heads to the coast.

Forget about home renovations during August as it will very difficult to find contractors and trades professionals to do any work. And on that note, let’s hope that nothing breaks that needs urgent fixing. Big insurance companies will still be operating, however, and should be able to find someone to come out to you in an emergency.

Doing any admin or dealing with Spanish bureaucracy during August can be difficult too. Need to renew a residency card, apply for a driver’s licence or register for your padrón certificate? You may want to hurry up and get it done before August arrives or wait until September as many of these public offices will have reduced personnel or maybe not be open.

Your favourite neighbourhood café may also close and you’ll have to find somewhere else for your morning coffee during August.

You’ll usually know that a small family-run establishment will close because they’ll place a notice in their window – stating they will close from this date to this date or ‘back on September 1st’ for example.

Big pharmacies and healthcare facilities will generally stay are open, but you may find some local smaller pharmacies will close and there may be fewer doctor’s appointments available. Your regular GP may be away, so you may have to see alternative doctors if need be.

Public holiday mid-August

It’s worth noting that Tuesday August 15th is a public holiday in Spain, meaning that more businesses, as well as most supermarkets will be closed that day too.

August 15th, is an important date in the Spanish calendar, not only because it’s a public holiday but because it’s a day to celebrate the Assumption of the Virgin, which according to Christians, commemorates the day the Virgin Mary entered heaven. This will be honoured with church masses across the country. 

Many people across Spain will also be taking advantage of the puente as it is called in Spanish or bridge, getting away for the long weekend and may have Friday the 16th as a holiday too. 

READ ALSO: Why Tuesday August 15th is a public holiday in Spain

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OPINION AND ANALYSIS

OPINION: My surreal experience with a civil servant is normal in Spain

The Local Spain’s editor Alex Dunham shares one example of the state-funded impunity of many of the country’s civil servants, an experience that anyone who lives in Spain can relate to. 

OPINION: My surreal experience with a civil servant is normal in Spain

So I needed to renew my digital certificate, the electronic signature which (supposedly) allows you to complete many bureaucratic processes faster and online. 

Ironically, this involves an in-person appointment. 

If it were the first time I was applying for this certificado electrónico, proving that I’m a real person and not a bot duping the Spanish administration would be a justifiable step in the process. But a renewal?

READ ALSO: Why is it so hard to get an appointment at some of Spain’s foreigner offices?

In any case, after having lived in Spain most of my life, I know how things go here. But it never ceases to amaze me how the system works.

As I enter my local government department, I’m immediately greeted by a civil guard officer shouting “¡Espere! ¿Tiene cita previa?” (“Wait! Do you have a prior appointment?”).

I reply that I do, thinking to myself that there is not a chance in hell I’m going to waste my time rocking up without one. 

A half-asleep civil servant manning the other side of the door echoes the guardia civil: “Do you have a cita previa?”

Again I confirm that I do. She then crosses out my name from a sheet of paper and asks me to remain seated and wait my turn.

The gentleman that walks in just after me isn’t so lucky. He doesn’t have a cita and both gatekeepers are all too happy to point to a poster which states that a prior appointment is a must, and then escort him out. 

“I’m on holiday for the next two weeks, so I’m sure I’ll be able to book my cita online and come back again,” the man replies in an accepting, almost subservient manner. 

To be clear, this government building is empty. There are no queues of people, no clacking of keyboards, no loud phone conversations – it’s dead. 

For the department dealing with standard bureaucratic tasks like mine, there are four desks with computers but only one funcionaria (civil servant) working. It’s 11am on a Thursday.

As I wait to be seen, I overhear a woman asking one of the gatekeepers if this is where a certain bureaucratic process can be done. The civil servant replies that she “doesn’t think so”, that she should try another government building, not this one, reiterating again that she “thinks” it’s the other place. Anywhere but here.

I recall all the times where I’ve been directed back and forth between different public administrations on the opposite side of town, as on both sides gatekeepers tried to pass the buck. 

After a 15-minute wait, it’s my turn. The civil servant walks up to me and asks “Hi, do you have a prior appointment?”. Once again, I nod. 

As we both sit down, this particularly chatty funcionaria enquires how she can help while she clears notelets and papers lying on her desk, adding that “my life is so busy right now”.

“I need to renew my digital certificate, here is my TIE and my confirmation code,” I reply. 

I’ve learnt from experience that it’s always good to double-check Spanish civil servants have got your foreign surname right, reiterate that your second name is not your first surname (as Spaniards have two surnames), and if necessary, slowly spell out your full name with the phonetic alphabet. 

Trust me, it’s probably worth it. For a few months, the Spanish government had my second name down as “Pauel” rather than Paul. 

Then the civil servant looks at my address on her screen and exclaims: “Oh my! We used to be neighbours!”.

“Really? What a coincidence!”, I respond. 

For the next 25 minutes, I learnt a lot about Mercedes. 

She told me about her recent move to a nearby coastal village, she showed me photos of her new penthouse, I learnt that it had cost her a lot but that she’d had her mortgage approved because she was a civil servant, that she used to wear stilettos but now prefers flip-flops, that her daughter has allergy problems.

I nod and smile, but inside I’m flabbergasted. 

I think about how many people could have been seen while Mercedes tells me her life story, I recall how hard it would have been for me to secure a mortgage while I was self-employed and working non-stop, I wonder if the civil servants who have not yet recognised my wife’s foreign qualification after five years have the same work ethic as her.

READ MORE: How Spain is ruining the careers of thousands of qualified foreigners

Above all, I realise – as I have done over and over again – that Spain’s public administration and its army of minions are the worst thing about this amazing country. 

Billions of euros have been handed to Spain by the EU for the country’s “digital transformation”. Have painstaking bureaucratic processes become easier as a result? Absolutely not.

At the start of year, the Spanish government proudly announced that it would scrap the compulsory prior appointment (cita previa obligatoria), implemented during the pandemic but kept in place for convenience ever since, even though it’s been deemed illegal by countless lawyers. Have they actually gotten rid of it? Un no rotundo as they say in Spanish, a resounding no. 

Something is severely wrong with a state which allows its employees to have zero accountability when serving the public. 

It is virtually impossible for funcionarios to be sacked. They are fully aware of that and do their jobs as they see fit, at their own leisurely pace and often without the necessary knowledge that their position requires. 

Not only that, they are rewarded with more holidays and overall rights than private sector workers, and in the eyes of Spanish banks, their extremely safe nómina (salary) makes applying for loans and mortgages a piece of cake for them.

READ MORE: Why so many Spaniards ‘dream’ of becoming civil servants

‘If you can’t beat them, join them’ is the attitude of millions of Spaniards who hate how the public administration works, but end up becoming funcionarios themselves.

I’ve had far more unpleasant experiences with civil servants before, and on this occasion, rather than wanting to point out to Mercedes that she was taking an awfully long time to do a very simple task, I found myself actually thinking that maybe our new ‘friendship’ could help me cut corners in future.

In Spain, the “servant” in civil servant applies to the person on the other side of the desk. 

It’s something that all of us living in Spain find out, usually sooner rather than later. 

How about you? Have you had any surreal experiences with civil servants in Spain? Leave a comment below!

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