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INSIDE ITALY

Inside Italy: Bear attacks, taxi queues and why Airbnb isn’t going anywhere

In this week's Inside Italy review, we look at Italy's boom in holiday lets, efforts to fix Rome's taxi shortage, and whether it's safe to go into the woods in Trentino.

Taxi, Rome
A taxi sign in front of Rome's Colosseum. Visitors used to jumping in a cab in other cities worldwide may have a different experience in Italy. Photo by FILIPPO MONTEFORTE / AFP

Inside Italy is our weekly look at some of the news, talking points and gossip from Italy that you might not have heard about. It’s published each Saturday and members can receive it directly to their inbox, by going to their newsletter preferences or adding their email to the sign-up box in this article.

Italian wildlife has been making international headlines this week, after a bear attacked a French tourist out hiking in the mountainous Trentino province of northern Italy. 

The man was not in a life-threatening condition, but the story of another attack renewed international interest in the issue of bears in northern Italy and the threat they may pose to humans.

Local authorities have now ordered the bear to be shot, triggering protests from animal rights activists and reigniting a long-running local debate over the dangers posed by the animals, which were reintroduced in Trentino between 1996 and 2004, and now number around 100.

There has been fierce debate over their presence in the area since April 2023, when a jogger was killed on a woodland path in Italy’s first fatal bear attack in modern times. 

The bear thought responsible, known as JJ4, will now be sent to a reserve in Germany rather than being shot as initially ordered after protestors insisted she was innocent.

Local authorities insist that killing the bears is a “last resort”. But in February this year, another brown bear known as M90 was shot dead by forestry police in the province after it reportedly showed “excessive confidence” around humans.

Such incidents illustrate the problem with attempts to rewild carnivorous animals, according to a recent report in National Geographic on the situation in Trentino – an essential read for anyone concerned about the risks or interested in the wider conservation issue.

It’s important to keep things in perspective. As National Geographic writes: “many more people are harmed in the Alps each year by cattle than they are by carnivores.”

In the capital, there was another piece of seemingly positive news from the city council this week. After announcing more bins and toilets for the city last month, Rome’s mayor has now confirmed more taxis will soon be on the road as he approved the release of 1,000 more licences.

This is a big deal because, until now, Rome hasn’t issued a single new taxi licence for two decades. Existing licences are bought and sold at eye-watering sums (reportedly up to €250.000), or passed on through the generations, keeping the doors firmly closed to competition in the sector.

As anyone who has attempted to use taxi services in Rome has probably noticed, this protectionist system does not seem to benefit customers.

Rome, like other Italian cities, has become notorious for its chronic shortage of cabs, as well as for common issues with overcharging and frequent refusal to take card payments or to take customers shorter distances, as detailed in countless negative reports in the Italian and international press. General rudeness from taxi drivers is also seen as standard by Romans, but it leaves a bad impression on many visitors.

Right now, Rome has some 7,700 licenced taxis, compared to around 19,000 in London, 18,500 in Paris, and 16,000 in Madrid. The additional licences, plus new rules allowing other drivers to take on a second shift, means the number of taxis is expected to rise to around 9,000 in the next few months.

It’s a start, but it’s obviously nowhere near enough in a European capital city and major global tourist destination.

For now, Italian media continues to report waits of half an hour or more for a taxi in the searing heat, with many public transport services out of action this summer due to renovation work.

Most people are well aware that the number of Airbnb apartments and other short-term lets aimed at tourists is booming in Italy. But is the situation now becoming unsustainable?

In the popular seaside town of Monopoli, Puglia, to take one example, local media reported this week that the number of holiday lets continues to soar while the number of local residents falls. This isn’t one of Italy’s depopulating ‘ghost towns’: the local economy is doing well, mostly due to booming tourism. But the flipside of this is that young local people say they’re forced to live elsewhere, as property prices are unaffordable and living conditions worsening.

It’s a familiar story, repeated across popular travel destinations Europe-wide.

In Italy, Venice is the most famous example of the hollowing-out of Italian city centres by mass tourism and property speculation. But the pattern is now seen everywhere from major cities to small coastal towns up and down the country.

In every case, it’s left to local and regional authorities to regulate on the issue of soaring property and rental costs fuelled by tourist lets – and very few seem willing or able to do so.

In the major destinations of Florence and Venice, councillors have long toyed with suggestions of regulating tourist lets. There have been some big announcements about them doing so in recent years. But so far, all the talk has come to nothing:

Florence’s plan to ban new Airbnbs in the centro storico has hit a major hurdle following a court ruling last week, while in Venice the city council has been very quiet lately on a long-discussed proposal to curb holiday lets – a move which campaigners say would be far more useful to the city than a five-euro entry fee.

Inside Italy is our weekly look at some of the news and talking points in Italy that you might not have heard about. It’s published each Saturday and members can receive it directly to their inbox, by going to their newsletter preferences or adding their email to the sign-up box in this article.

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INSIDE ITALY

Inside Italy: Water waste problems and why beach clubs are striking in August

In this week's Inside Italy review, we look at chronic water waste problems amid a crushing drought, planned beach club strikes and a live-TV tirade against French coffee.

Inside Italy: Water waste problems and why beach clubs are striking in August

Inside Italy is our weekly look at some of the news, talking points and gossip from Italy that you might not have heard about. It’s published each Saturday and members can receive it directly to their inbox, by going to their newsletter preferences or adding their email to the sign-up box in this article.

A leaky boot

While northern Italy has been reported as having abundant water reserves this summer following above-average rainfall in spring, large parts of the centre and south have been in the grip of a severe drought in recent months, with the islands of Sicily and Sardinia bearing the brunt of the crisis so far.  

Regional authorities in Sardinia declared a state of emergency earlier this week amid a crushing water shortage that is threatening the livelihood of thousands of local farmers.

But conditions are possibly even more alarming in Sicily, where consecutive months of hot and dry temperatures have withered crops, vineyards and fruit groves, and deprived livestock of pastureland, causing damage already estimated at 2.7 billion euros.

“There’s no hope because it hasn’t rained since May of last year. All the planted fields have been lost,” Salvatore Michele Amico, a farmer near the town of San Cataldo, in Sicily’s dry interior, told AFP this week.

While acknowledging the role played by the near-total absence of rainfall for close to a year in parts of the island, the Sicilian branch of Italy’s farmers association Coldiretti this week pointed to the persisting lack of infrastructure aimed at “using water intelligently”.

According to Italy’s national statistics office, Istat, Sicily has one of the country’s highest rates of wasted drinking water, with some 51.6 percent of water lost from distribution networks in 2022 (that’s around 157 litres of wasted water per resident every day).

But the inefficiency of water distribution networks flagged by Istat is far from being an exclusively Sicilian problem. 

According to a YouTrend report based on Istat data, 2.4 billion cubic metres of water are pumped into the water network of Italy’s 109 provincial capitals every year. Of these, over 36 percent are lost, corresponding to a daily loss of 41 cubic metres of water for every kilometre of network.

Major upgrade works on the national water distribution system are part of Italy’s PNRR – a blueprint of key infrastructure investments using EU-wide post-pandemic recovery funds – but the project’s progress has long been something of a mystery in Italy, with little to no publicly available information about timelines and overall spending.

Beach club strikes

From transport to education to healthcare, strikes are far from rare in Italy, but protests tend to be far and few between in August as millions of Italians can be found relaxing at holiday destinations up and down the boot for much of the month. 

People pictured at a private beach in Italy's Lazio region

People pictured at a private beach in Italy’s Lazio region. Photo by Filippo MONTEFORTE / AFP

Yet, we may still get to see some strikes this month (and slightly surprising ones at that) as beach club operators have threatened to walk out on three different dates in August amid a tug of war with the government over a contested EU directive. 

Under EU competition rules first approved in 2006 but postponed by multiple Italian governments over the years, Italy’s private beach concessions will have to be put up for public tender from January 2025 after being automatically renewed and handed down from one generation to the other for decades.

But concession holders have been fighting the EU directive tooth and nail in recent months, complaining about the lack of national criteria for the planned public tenders, and asking the government to grant some form of economic compensation to outgoing operators.

Italy’s government hasn’t yet made its stance clear on this demand, but any type of ‘deal sweetener’ would surely be hard to justify, especially after reports revealed that state coffers only collect €115 million from beach concessions – that’s against a total estimated revenue of €32 billion.

Coffee that ‘matches the colour of the Seine’

Italians are famously very proud and protective of their coffee culture, and tend to be exceptionally suspicious of caffè brewed anywhere outside of national borders. 

We got another reminder of that earlier this week as Italian sports journalist Luca Sacchi went on a memorable live-TV tirade against the coffee served at the Paris Olympics press room. 

“In the press room, there’s coffee that matches the waters of the Seine,” he said, alluding to unhealthy water pollution levels that caused the postponement of the men’s triathlon events on Tuesday. 

The journalist then doubled down: “It is probably made with the same water, then diluted with a low-quality soluble”.

Unsurprisingly, Sacchi’s invective inspired countless reactions and memes on Italian social media, with one user saying: “Someone save those poor Italian commentators from the Seine coffees”.

Inside Italy is our weekly look at some of the news and talking points in Italy that you might not have heard about. It’s published each Saturday and members can receive it directly to their inbox, by going to their newsletter preferences or adding their email to the sign-up box in this article.

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