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TRAIN TRAVEL

Room with a view: the German teen living on trains

Lasse Stolley was looking for a change in scenery after a planned apprenticeship fell through. So nearly two years ago the teenager began living on German trains.

Lasse Stolley, German teen who lives on trains
Lasse Stolley, who has been living on German trains since August 2022, poses for a photo at the main railway station in Frankfurt am Main, western Germany. Photo: Kirill KUDRYAVTSEV / AFP

The epic journey has taken the 17-year-old from a small community in Germany’s windswept far north to the country’s southern borders and beyond.

Setting off in August 2022, he has travelled a staggering 650,000 kilometres (400,000 miles), the equivalent of going around the Earth over 15 times, while sitting on trains for more than 6,700 hours.

“Being able to decide every day where I want to go is simply great — that’s freedom,” Stolley told AFP in an interview in a cafe at Frankfurt train station.

“I like that I can just look out of the window while travelling and watch the landscape quickly zipping by… and the fact that I can explore every place in Germany.”

He travels with just a rucksack and lives mainly on pizza and soup which — as a holder of a train pass — he gets for free in rail operator Deutsche Bahn’s station lounges.

Bumpy start

With his broad smile, the lanky teen seems an unlikely figure to have decided to swap the comfort of his family home for the rigours of life on the rails.

He had little interest in trains growing up. He never owned a model railway, and had only travelled twice on Germany’s high-speed ICE trains before deciding to start living permanently on the network just after he turned 16.

But after finishing secondary school, a planned apprenticeship in computer programming fell through. Searching around for what to do next, he stumbled across a documentary about someone who had lived on trains.

“I thought I could do that,” he said.

“At first it was just an idea, such an unrealistic idea. But then I kept getting into it… and then I thought, ‘OK, I am going to really do this.'”

After initially trying to dissuade him, his parents decided to support him.

He bought a rail card that granted him unlimited travel on the network and set off from his home in Fockbek in the northern state of Schleswig-Holstein, heading to Hamburg from where he took a night train to Munich.

READ ALSO: Six exceptionally scenic train rides to take in Germany

The early days were difficult. Stolley could not sleep at night — his railcard does not allow him to use night trains with beds — and returned home frequently to see his family.

But he soon got used to living on the trains.

He bought an airbed that he used to sleep in the large baggage areas of high-speed trains at night.

And after a year, he upgraded his travel card to a first-class one — costing €5,888 a year — allowing him access to more spacious carriages and Deutsche Bahn’s lounges.

Rail romance

Now he no longer needs the airbed and can sleep so comfortably upright in a train seat that he struggles in a regular bed.

“In a normal bed, I miss the rocking of the train jerking me around a bit at night,” he said.

Stolley even works while on the move, doing a part-time job programming apps for a start-up.

He frequently travels to major cities, such as the capital Berlin or Frankfurt, the country’s financial hub.

Lasse Stolley German teen who lives on trains

Lasse Stolley at the main railway station in Frankfurt am Main, western Germany, on May 29th, 2024. Stolley has been living on trains for almost two years. Photo: Kirill KUDRYAVTSEV / AFP

He also often heads to smaller towns and travels through the Alps, and has been to Basel in Switzerland and Salzburg in Austria, just over the German border — the points furthest south covered by his railcard.

But living on the German train network, which critics say is in a sorry state after years of underinvestment, is not without challenges.

“Delays and other issues are certainly daily affairs,” said Stolley.

READ ALSO: The destinations you can reach by direct night train from Berlin

Train staff have staged regular strikes as they pushed for better pay and conditions, paralysing the network and meaning that Stolley was forced to sleep in airports.

Asked about what they thought of someone choosing to live aboard their trains on a permanent basis, Deutsche Bahn declined to comment.

Still, while life on Germany’s creaking railways can sometimes be a headache, it can also have unexpected upsides — Stolley found romance during his travels, meeting his girlfriend at the Cologne rail station lounge.

Stolley said he doesn’t know how long he will continue living as a postmodern digital hobo — maybe for another year, or five.

“At the moment, I am having a lot of fun and experiencing so many things every day,” he said.

By Sam Reeves 

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TRAIN TRAVEL

What happens if you board a train, bus, or U-Bahn in Germany without a ticket?

If you’re new to using public transport in Germany, you may be tempted to travel without a ticket. Here’s what happens if you get caught.

What happens if you board a train, bus, or U-Bahn in Germany without a ticket?

Unlike in many countries where you need to pass through barriers or show a ticket before boarding, most German public transport systems operate on a trust-based approach. This means that while you can board buses, trains, and U-Bahns without showing a ticket, you must have a valid one with you at all times.

In Germany, travelling on public transport without a valid ticket is known as Schwarzfahren, which roughly translates to “fare dodging.” This is considered a criminal offence, and German public transport authorities take strict measures to prevent and penalise it.

READ ALSO: German Word of the Day: Schwarzfahren

Ticket inspectors conduct random checks on various forms of public transport. These inspectors can appear at any time and usually operate in teams to cover multiple exits, to make sure fare dodgers can’t easily slip away. They’re often in plain clothes, too, so they’re no easy to spot before the doors close. 

If they catch you without a valid ticket, the inspector will issue an on-the-spot fine, known as Erhöhtes Beförderungsentgelt, which translates to an “increased fare”.

As of 2024, the standard fine for fare dodging is €60, but this amount can vary depending on the city and transport authority. Usually, you will have 14 days to pay the fine. If you don’t pay within this timeframe, you will be sent a Mahnung (“Warning”) with an extra charge on the original fine. 

What is a valid ticket?

If you buy a ticket from a machine on a train platform or on a tram, you must also validate it in the stamp box on the platform; an unvalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all.

A ticket inspector checks the ticket of a passenger in the Nuremberg subway.

A ticket inspector checks the ticket of a passenger in the Nuremberg subway. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Daniel Karmann

You should also make sure that the ticket you purchased covers the journey that you’re making. For instance, if you buy a Kurzstrecke (“short trip”) ticket in Berlin, you can only travel 3 stops on the train or U-bahn or 6 on the bus or tram. If you are caught exceeding these stops with such a ticket, you will also be hit with a €60 fine.

The simplest way to avoid penalties is to purchase tickets in advance using mobile apps provided by local transport authorities. If you travel frequently, consider purchasing a weekly, monthly, or annual pass, which is often more cost-effective and convenient. With the €49 ticket, for example, you can travel on all regional public transport throughout Germany for a month. 

READ ALSO: €49 ticket goes on sale across Germany: What you need to know

What happens if I leave my ticket at home or can’t display it?

If you do have a valid ticket but can’t prove it – possibly because your phone has died and you can’t show your digital Deutschlandticket or Semesterticket – you’ll be treated the same way as any other fare dodger and have your details taken down.

After this, though, you’ll have 14 days to submit proof of your valid ticket online and will then be given a nominal fine of around €7 or possibly less. 

Repeat offenders

Most people who ride without a ticket simply pay the €60 penalty fare and that’s the end of it. However, public transport companies take a stricter approach with repeat offenders, who can be referred for prosecution regardless of whether they have paid the penalty fare.

Transport companies often keep individual records of each instance of fare evasion and, if a person repeatedly evades fares, the company can report all these offences together to the authorities. This means the offender could face multiple charges at once, leading to a much higher fine. In the worst case, the court could sentence the offender to prison time.

Even without prison time, repeated offences can lead to a criminal record, which can have serious implications for future employment opportunities, travel visas, and other legal matters.

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