The Swedish national folk costume (Sverigedräkten) has seen a resurgence in popularity over the past few decades.

You can see it often – during festive occasions, in popular culture (such as movies depicting Sweden), and on teachers who wear it for graduations.

Furthermore, Sweden’s Queen Silvia dons the national folk costume (virtually) every year on National Day, often in the company of other royal family members who do the same, such as Crown Princess Victoria, Princess Madeleine, and Princess Estelle.

Judging by the frequently positive (international media) attention this attracts, one would think that the national costume’s roots are well-grounded in history and tradition.

However, the reality is that the Swedish national costume is neither ancient nor traditionally Swedish.

Its roots trace back to the early 20th century, to a time when nationalism was booming.

The work of a controversial designer

The costume was designed by Märta Jörgensen, a designer who drew inspiration from local Sörmland (an area on the southeastern coast of Sweden) costumes to create a practical, everyday dress for Swedish women.

Her goal was to foster a sense of national pride and provide an alternative to the restrictive, expensive, and hard-to-clean European fashion of the time.

Jörgensen’s nationalist enthusiasm extended beyond fashion; she was active in a fascist movement called Swedish Opposition (Svensk Opposition) that later evolved into the far-right New Swedish Movement (Nysvenska rörelsen).

The costume experienced a revival during the 1970s’ “green wave,” a period marked by a restored interest in folk culture and craftsmanship in Sweden.

In the late 1970s, the Nordic Museum reintroduced the dress at an exhibition, sparking new interest once again.

Yet, it wasn’t until Queen Silvia wore it in the early 1980s, coinciding with the official designation of June 6th as Sweden’s National Day, that the costume truly gained traction and prominence.

The question of why Sweden celebrates its National Day on June 6th is harder to answer than you might think. The Local has a detailed explainer that delves into the question.

Today, the costume such a mainstay of popular culture that you’ll often see young people wearing it on social media.

What do experts think?

Despite its royal endorsement, the costume remains contentious among experts.

Ulla Centergran, an ethnologist and researcher, told the newspaper Aftonbladet in 2022 that the costume lacked traditional roots and was created from flag fabric, which some find trivial compared to Sweden’s rich collection of over 600 village costumes.

However, Centergran made a positive comment about the royal family’s choice to wear the costume on National Day, describing the choice as both practical and symbolic.

“It fits well that they are dressed in the Swedish flag; who should be dressed in the Swedish flag if not the royal family?” the researcher said.

READ MORE: Why does secular Sweden have so many religious public holidays?