SHARE
COPY LINK

CULTURE

4,000 historic French state dinner menus up for auction

From cooking for dictators to rushing to accommodate Barack Obama's love of cheese -- a collection of French state dinner menus offered a unique insight into 150 years of diplomatic and gastronomic history on Wednesday.

4,000 historic French state dinner menus up for auction
The menu during a state dinner with French President and his South African counterpart, at the Elysee Presidential Palace in Paris in 2016.(Photo by STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN / various sources / AFP)

The 4,000-plus menus were on display in Paris before going up for auction on Friday, with the oldest dating back to an imperial dinner given by Napoleon III in 1868 that carries a few wine stains from the moment.

They offer a who’s who of royalty, statesmen and dictators, from John F Kennedy and Nelson Mandela to Saddam Hussein and Vladimir Putin — right up to the sumptuous meal at Versailles for King Charles III last year.

They were obsessively collected by a Lyons-based chef, Christophe Marguin, who has put them up for auction with the Millon auction house at estimations ranging from €10 to €1,500 per lot.

Some are printed on beautiful silk, and one for US president Jimmy Carter features an original lithograph by painter Marc Chagall.

They hint at the complex logistics that surround diplomatic moments — such as the commemorations for the 70th anniversary of the D-Day landings in 2014 when then-president Francois Hollande had to dash from a meal with Obama to another with Putin.

Having enjoyed a blue lobster salad and grilled sea bass, Obama messed with the delicate timing by asking for a cheese course that was not on the tight menu schedule “almost causing a diplomatic incident,” auctioneer Alexandre Millon told AFP.

Those logistics pale compared to the meal for 23,000 local mayors, held in the Tuilerie Gardens in 1900, that required seven kilometres of tablecloth, 125,000 plates, 600 cooks, 2,200 servers, 2,000 kilos of salmon, 1,200 litres of mayonnaise and 39,000 bottles of wine.

“We see the evolution of international relations. Visits at the end of the 19th century were much rarer, so they were exceptional events with several meals at the Elysee, sometimes at Versailles… often with military parades and a programme of opera or theatre,” said Millon.

Some menus carried subtle messages.

When France was trying to ensure close ties with both Russia and Britain in 1897, the dinner for Russian Tsar Nicolas II included both Sturgeon from the Volga and “Ananas a la Victoria” — a pineapple dessert named after the British queen.

It is the French president who usually has the final call on the menu, but there is back-and-forth to ensure it fits the tastes of the guests.

For one visit, Queen Elizabeth II was offered two choices — with foie gras or without — for fear of offending her environmentally-conscious son Charles.

“But it was the queen that decided, and clearly she liked foie gras, so it stayed in,” Millon said.

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.
For members

PARIS

Paris opens new museum of French presidents

Paris visitors will soon have another museum to visit, this one celebrating the Elysée Palace and the French presidents who have occupied it over the years.

Paris opens new museum of French presidents

On Wednesday, French President Emmanuel Macron inaugurated a new museum in Paris – the Maison de l’Élysée, located just opposite his residence at the Elysée palace on rue Saint-Honoré in Paris’ eighth arrondissement. 

The museum will offer visitors a chance to get to know the palace and its history better, as well as its current and former inhabitants.

It will open to the public on July 30th, and will be free to visit during the Olympic Games. Afterwards, a reservation system will be put in place from September. The museum will have a capacity of 150 people at a time.

Macron initiated the project during the summer of 2023 “to show the history of the building and promote French know-how (savoir faire).”

READ MORE: 5 lesser-known museums in Paris to visit this summer

During the inauguration, the president added that part of the inspiration was the fact that the “10,000 places we offer during the Heritage Days (Journées du Patrimoine) go in 30 minutes”.  

Officially, the Elysée receives 75,000 people annually, according to Le Figaro, but the primary moment of the year that tourists can come see the palace is during the ‘Heritage days’, typically in September, which involves a tour of the building’s ornate halls, as well as the Salle des Fêtes, the site of state dinners.

What will be inside of the museum?

The 600 square metre, two-floor museum will present some of the original furniture, art and photos that have decorated the Elysée Palace over the years, including the ‘imperial chandelier’ that once decorated the Salon des Huissiers. 

One of the key exhibits will be the desk used by several former French presidents, including Charles de Gaulle, Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, François Hollande and Emmanuel Macron during his first term.

Visitors will be allowed to take a photo in front of it, but they won’t be permitted to sit down behind it. 

The museum will also offer a short film on the history of the palace, as well as tableware from state dinners and diplomatic gifts received by French presidents over the years.

A gift shop will sell French presidency-themed souvenirs, with proceeds contributing to the upkeep of the palace, which was built in the 18th century and requires about €6.5 million each year to keep it up.

There will also be a café with about 40 seats, offering a lovely view of the Elysée’s courtyard. 

Leadership tourism

France is not the first country to offer such a visitor experience. 

In the United States, the White House visitor centre offers exhibits (free of charge) for visitors interested in learning about the residence as both a home, office and ceremonial space.

In the UK, it is possible to take a virtual tour of the inside of 10 Downing Street.

As for Italy, it is possible to book a guided tour of the Quirinale Palace, though space tends to be limited.

In Spain, the Palacio de la Moncloa offers 90-minute guided visits, as long as you register in advance on their official website. 

SHOW COMMENTS